Hi guys, young mini enthusiast here, I got my R53 about a month ago and I've loved every second of driving the thing, from the little things such as discovering functions on the interior that I didn't expect, all the way to beating my dad's Z3 m roadster in a hill climb race. I've been doing mostly my own work on the car, it has been fairly modded in its past lives, with mods such as a 15% pulley, what appears to be a mishimoto radiator, and some fat brembo brakes that stop the thing as if i dropped an anchor off the back. But I've been confronted with an issue that stumps my dad and I, when I take the thing close to redline, the gauges shut off and then turn back on as soon as I shift, now that was concerning but the car didn't stop dead in its tracks so I didn't think about it too much. The real issue happened to me the other night, I decided to be a teenage hooligan, and I took the thing up to redline in first, shifted to second, and the whole car jerked a little bit, as if I had not rev matched a downshift properly. My gauges shut off and came back on again, and I had just backed off the throttle as of feeling this shaking. About half a mile later, the check engine light came on, I decided to stop the car and check the code with the reader I have, PO302, cylinder 2 misfire. I gingerly took the car home, and went to bed for the night. Earlier today I re-torqued the spark plugs that I had replaced not even a week ago, and took my dad on a drive. Went into second, and revved it up, speedometer lost power as I felt the shaking started again. Immediately let off the throttle so as to not turn on the check engine light again. Now here's the real kicker, This car has an MSD coilpack and wires, I read some threads on here, you guys hate the MSD even saying that it can harm the ECU. So I ask, would switching back to oem coil pack and wires solve this problem? And if it isn't the coils, where should I check next?
Before I got to the end of your post I was already thinking coil pack. I cant say for sure it will fix it but I would get rid of that coil pack and go back to stock. That is all I ever ran on my R53. @Dave.0 has a highly modded R53 and I believe he is still running the stock coil pack. Great to hear from a young Mini owner that is running his mini in competition. My son and I have done a lot around cars. I know your dad is proud, even if you did beat his Zed3
I agree with Lee, get that MSD coil pack off of there. As for the seemingly electrical loss, make sure the positive jump connection under the hood is tight. They can get loose. That's all I've got for now. Someone much smarter will be along shortly to help you. Welcome to M/A
I have nothing to add other than welcome to Motoring Alliance the bestest MINI forum on the interweb.
Then check your crank pulley. This is also a known weak point on the R53. The solid rubber section rots and causes the the belt to slip. Then check your battery and alternator.
Thank you guys! I will be changing the coil pack back to oem, do I need to change the wires as well and rid MSD from my engine? And should I go Genuine Mini for the coil pack?
Update on today: it is cylinder 2 misfiring consistently, and it will only misfire in first and second gear. I did a test taking up to highway speeds in third, nothing, and I almost bounced off the limiter. The misfire also resets itself after about half a mile. New coil pack is about to be ordered,
Bad news guys, coil pack swapped out, didn't fix the issue. I also swapped out the wheel speed sensor to see if that would take care of the ABS, DSC, and Tire pressure lights. I basically installed parts and made more problems. My handbrake light now randomly comes on while it most definitely not engaged, but is not related to the engine misfiring. The only victory of today was that there was a lot of corrosion on the cylinder 3 coil. What should I look at next? I heard some mentions of crank pulley, my dad thinks it could be a fuel injector stuck open or closed, fill me in please.
Is your brake fluid low? If it is it may give you an intermittent brake light. Top it up if it needs it. Sorry you still have issues.
I'll check the brake fluid, last time I checked I think it was actually overfilled. I think what caused it was swapping out the wheel speed sensor. But that isn't much of my concern as much as my engine misfiring when I put a lot of load on it. My dad suggested I ask about the relationship between the limp mode and the injectors, maybe the limp mode is engaging when I don't want it to.
You needed to get that coil pack off your car anyway. ABS, DSC, Tire pressure.....The trifecta of lights. It is one of two things. Ether one of the 4 wheel speed sensors is bad (for some reason its usually the front left) or its time for a new ABS unit. You will need a code reader that can read BMW/MINI codes. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/FOXWELL-Automotive-Diagnostic-Transmission-Registration/dp/B019QCG5RE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Foxwell+Mini+code+reader&qid=1590086737&sr=8-7 If you have to replace the ABS unit it you will need this code reader to get the air out of the ABS pump. It's cheeper to get a used ABS unit from All Mag. Thats what I did. But you may have to have it coded to your car when you're finished. https://www.allmagautoparts.com As far as that code reader goes sense your dad has a BMW it is well worth getting it. I reads the BMW codes the generic ones cant. How are your brake pads? Like the BMW it has a brake pad wear sensor it could be starting to activate. If your pad gets thin enough it cuts the sensor and turns on the brake light, like BMW. If the fluid is low it may be your pads need changing. The failed gets low as pads wear. Check your grounding straps make sure they are clean and tight. also make sure the nut under the + symbol is tight, they have been know to get loose. Rereading your first post makes me wonder of your motor mounts are bad and letting the engine shift to much you may be loosing ground causing the interments to die and have a misfire. Thats all I have tonight
I'll keep that all in mind, the brake pads are very meaty. I didn't actually know about the code reader thing and I guess that's why people on youtube can actually get wheel speed sensor codes. I'll add all that to my repair list and keep you guys updated, really appreciate the help.
I am not sure. In the morning I will look at the Bentley manual. Its rear for an injector to go bad but I would not rule it out especially if the previous owner used cheep gas. Your R53 must have 93 octane, 91 at the very least
Any new codes after the last work you performed? Do a compression test. Low compression will trigger a misfire. It can also trigger the DTS light. I had the wires from the front right speed sensor come loose from its retainer and come in contact with the crank pulley. That then wore thru the insulation and would give me the light trifecta intermittently.