Just use OEM, coil, plugs and wires. I do and I am just over 300 whp.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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Everything has been installed except for the belt tensioner, my rubber crank pulley was actually in really good condition, but I don't smell burning rubber anymore. I thought the tensioner had plenty of umph left in it, but with the belt still slipping, it will be replaced.
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So today I discovered that the car will go right up to 6000 rpm no problem with wires 2 and 3 swapped. I just expected the misfire to move from 2 to 3 but now it's gone entirely. I'm probably going to get new plug wires, and I think I hear some timing chain noise so I'll get a tensioner too. I'm still quite confused, not sure if the car is fixed or not but this is definitely somewhere.
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Hi guys!!! I know it's been a minute, I've had to stay away from the lil car because my girlfriend (who's now my fiance
) just visited and I had to spoil her. But just a few days ago I installed an intake on the car. The DDM works m62 with the foam filter because WMW recommended it. I think I feel a bump in power, but I'm not trying to placebo myself. Overall the experience of installing it was not too bad, other than the terrible build quality of the sheet metal intake box. I also cut my finger real hard on the rough hewn sheet steel. Other than that, didn't have to redo anything, didn't strip any screws, didn't lose any super important hardware, and only one run for tools! But damn it was all worth it when I heard the throttle go, "woosh." Sometimes I feel that I am too easily amused. But how are you guys doing?
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Crashton Club Coordinator
I agree with Lee, get that MSD coil pack off of there. As for the seemingly electrical loss, make sure the positive jump connection under the hood is tight. They can get loose.
That's all I've got for now. Someone much smarter will be along shortly to help you.
Welcome to M/A-
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I'll keep that all in mind, the brake pads are very meaty. I didn't actually know about the code reader thing and I guess that's why people on youtube can actually get wheel speed sensor codes. I'll add all that to my repair list and keep you guys updated, really appreciate the help.
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Any new codes after the last work you performed?
Do a compression test. Low compression will trigger a misfire. It can also trigger the DTS light.
I had the wires from the front right speed sensor come loose from its retainer and come in contact with the crank pulley. That then wore thru the insulation and would give me the light trifecta intermittently.-
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Alright, I bought a bunch of new parts and really made the car work like it should, but I have determined that whatever is causing the issue at high revs is out of my skill level. The dedicated BMW code reader almost narrowed it down to a fuel injector, which I replaced, but now it is making a code labeled as C0302, and I can't find anything specific about the code in my Bentley book. or on the internet. The only consistency that I can find is that it's a fuel rail pressure sensor issue. I am definitely taking the car in, hopefully tomorrow. But in good news, the car runs very smoothly and is getting the air it should due to me replacing the upper and lower airbox. Before the car sounded like it was sucking air through a straw but now it sounds like it's taking deep breaths, and I have a forge motorsport intercooler on the way to replace the oem one that has been so scratched and beaten and I'm not even sure if it's doing its job as an intercooler.
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So I was thinking today, and decided to look up this video . And in the first 20 seconds he said that my problem is the sign of a bad crank pulley, (timing jutters, suddenly going into limp mode when under full boost), and a burning smell which I thought was the clutch). The oil is very clean, I changed it in may. The oil leaks are getting on my nerves but it doesn't have to do with this limp mode issue.
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
And be sure to check the crank pulley. The rubber can't tear and cause some weird issues.
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This is great! Just because it is fix doesn't mean you need to be a stranger. Hang out with us old farts. If you autocross it we will need to send you a MA sticker, it will shave 2 seconds off your time.
Pictures are always a good thing.-
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Yeah you guys helped me so much! I'll definitely be sticking around, I've seen how my dad has made friends on his motorcycle forum, even went up to Montana to meet them all. I think there is a lot that I can learn from y'all, especially with me being so young and dumb. I may continue this thread and either start posting dash cam footage of some of my favorite drives, or my first autocross runs, or maybe just a chronicle of putting, "go fast" parts on my car.
Here's the lil bmw beating car, now that my dad has moved I do almost all of my own work, this was fresh after a wash a few weeks ago.-
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The intake is great once it's installed but the heat shield is just rough hewn sheet steel with only tac welds holding it together, there were some rubber pieces that ended up falling off of the shield. Other than the gripes of installing it, I love it, car runs great, sounds great, feels great. I am going to begin researching the autocross club around here, see if they're still kickin' during covid.
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Crashton Club Coordinator
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Before I got to the end of your post I was already thinking coil pack. I cant say for sure it will fix it but I would get rid of that coil pack and go back to stock. That is all I ever ran on my R53. @Dave.0 has a highly modded R53 and I believe he is still running the stock coil pack.
Great to hear from a young Mini owner that is running his mini in competition. My son and I have done a lot around cars. I know your dad is proud, even if you did beat his Zed3-
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Update on today: it is cylinder 2 misfiring consistently, and it will only misfire in first and second gear. I did a test taking up to highway speeds in third, nothing, and I almost bounced off the limiter. The misfire also resets itself after about half a mile. New coil pack is about to be ordered,
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