Is your brake fluid low? If it is it may give you an intermittent brake light. Top it up if it needs it.
Sorry you still have issues.
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Crashton Club Coordinator
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https://www.amazon.com/FOXWELL-Automotive-Diagnostic-Transmission-Registration/dp/B019QCG5RE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Foxwell+Mini+code+reader&qid=1590086737&sr=8-7
If you have to replace the ABS unit it you will need this code reader to get the air out of the ABS pump. It's cheeper to get a used ABS unit from All Mag. Thats what I did. But you may have to have it coded to your car when you're finished.
https://www.allmagautoparts.com
As far as that code reader goes sense your dad has a BMW it is well worth getting it. I reads the BMW codes the generic ones cant.
How are your brake pads? Like the BMW it has a brake pad wear sensor it could be starting to activate. If your pad gets thin enough it cuts the sensor and turns on the brake light, like BMW. If the fluid is low it may be your pads need changing. The failed gets low as pads wear.
Check your grounding straps make sure they are clean and tight. also make sure the nut under the + symbol is tight, they have been know to get loose. Rereading your first post makes me wonder of your motor mounts are bad and letting the engine shift to much you may be loosing ground causing the interments to die and have a misfire.
Thats all I have tonight-
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Ok I am awake and have coffee. I know that money may be tight for a guy your age but a decent set of hand tools will save you lots of money.
The belt has zero to do with timing. The car has a timing chain that keeps the cam and crank in time. As far as timing for firing the plugs the ECU does that via a crank position sensor.
The stock crank pulley has a metal center where it bolts to the crank and a metal outer that the belt rides on. Between them is rubber. If that rubber is getting cracks in it it could be about to fail. That would be very bad. Some times when they are going bad they can cause odd problems. As far as your belt being fairly new, do you know if its the right belt? did the idler pulley and tensioner get changed at the same time? If not do it all. Some like @Dave.0 replaces his tensioner often.
When running a smaller supercharger pulley you need that belt tight.
this is the belt you need, Gates 1379mm / K060535. I like getting my parts from https://www.detroittuned.com Chad is a great guy and he will answer questions.
As far as the crank pulley goes I got the ATI. It came with the bolts I needed. The crank pulley @myles2go used may be a great alternative. I don't know what it comes with but he can help with that.-
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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so the car is still misfiring and sending itself into limp mode at higher rpm, tensioner and new belt are now on, I didn't have time to get to it until now, and I'm not entirely sure where to go next, the car runs perfect until it starts misfiring at WOT.
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Check and make sure you don’t have corrosion where your plug wires go to your coil pack. If you have a meter check the ohms of your plug wires. Do you have a stock coil, I can’t remember if you got one or not
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Also look at the wire that plugs into the back of the coil pack and make sure none of them have any brakes in them and the plug is in good shape
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This is just a thought, a long shot. I wonder if something is moving and causing a brake in a wire. Make sure every think is tight.
When I get home tomorrow I will look and see if I can find the resistance for the plug wires. I will post them if I find it
Good luck-
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Sometimes you just got to go with the flow and not look a gift horse in the mouth. If the miss is gone then accept it and move on. If’n the wires haven’t been replace and they look a little suspect then by all means replace them and the tensioner if it’s making making noise.
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My homie said that the wasted spark actually working may be a timing thing, but I take his word with a grain of salt because he spends most of his time on carbed American v8s and not tiny boosted euro stuff. I would wholly agree with 00mini about not looking a gift horse in the mouth, but there still isn't something right, new wires and tensioner on the way. Wires are just the wmw brand that are oem equivalents. I am quite excited with the state of the car now. It feels like it becomes a better and better car with each thing I install or fix. Next weekend I'm going to take my first roadtrip to see my dad.
I appreciate you guys for all the help and advice.-
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the previous owner put these weird studs in the valve cover that I couldn't get out, so I wasn't able to check the chain. But how the car is misfiring now is it will idle rough after the engine gets warm, and if it idles rough for too long it will go into limp mode and turn on the CEL. I am leaning most towards a stretched timing chain, but this weekend I'm going to put the old spark plugs in and do a compression test just to rule out a couple possibilities, and maybe even get my hands on better fuel injectors.
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