I should note to you guys that all I can get in my very small hometown is 91, I don't know of anywhere even in my county that I can get 93.
Where is your hometown? I know that in some countries lower octane gas is available but gas in larger cities with higher octane is usually labeled as "SUPER".
Yea I think out west 91 is the only thing available. It can live on 91. You could through some octane boost in your tank if you want but you should be fine. I am a big believer of using top tear fuel. It keeps your motor cleaner and injectors cleaner longer because of the extra detergents. https://toptiergas.com/licensed-brands/
So I've had a revelation today. And I wanted to ask you guys if it's possible that my clutch could be catastrophically slipping. Why I think this is because it always happens in the car's powerband where it has the most torque to put into the clutch. My clutch currently feels like mashed potatoes after having been driven by a teenager who was doing mean things to the clutch, accidentally money shifting, and the night that this problem actually started, when I failed a launch. My dad tells me that bad clutch behavior is a lot different, and it has to be some issue with engine management, whether it's air delivery, fuel delivery, or ignition. Do you guys have any input about clutch issues? I know I need a new clutch anyway but it would be pretty nice if the clutch could fix this issue too. P.S. I won't reveal exactly where I live just yet, but the best we have around here is 91, I have to travel about 150 miles north or south to get 93.
When you perceive the clutch slipping does the tach show an increase in RPM? More than it would normally show while accelerating. My experience has been clutches that slipped have done so in high gear. 5th or 6th, but eventually it would slip in all gears.
I'll have to check, whether or not the clutch is the cause I'll be getting a new clutch anyway because of how beat my clutch is.
@Crashton is correct. try going slow and put it is a gear to high for the speed you are going and see if it does like Chuck said, RPM goes up and little or no speed increase
Got the car in 6th going about 30, no slip. I will be taking the car to the local euro car shop for some diagnostics.
Alright, I bought a bunch of new parts and really made the car work like it should, but I have determined that whatever is causing the issue at high revs is out of my skill level. The dedicated BMW code reader almost narrowed it down to a fuel injector, which I replaced, but now it is making a code labeled as C0302, and I can't find anything specific about the code in my Bentley book. or on the internet. The only consistency that I can find is that it's a fuel rail pressure sensor issue. I am definitely taking the car in, hopefully tomorrow. But in good news, the car runs very smoothly and is getting the air it should due to me replacing the upper and lower airbox. Before the car sounded like it was sucking air through a straw but now it sounds like it's taking deep breaths, and I have a forge motorsport intercooler on the way to replace the oem one that has been so scratched and beaten and I'm not even sure if it's doing its job as an intercooler.
Car came back from the shop, they told me the code doesn't exist and is probably a misfire code manifesting in some other way. What they think is that the car has enough oil leaks that the belt tensioner doesn't hold its tension and messes up the timing under high load. They gave me a bottle of oil cleaner, and a bottle of injector cleaner. Both of which are in my car right now. Now I gotta drive the thing 500 miles and see what happens.
No I don’t think I buy that one. The belt has nothing to do with timing. A bad crank pulley can cause odd things to happen and a belt slipping can also.I would clean the motor well and put a new belt, tensioner and idler pulley on it. Take a good look at the crank pulley if it has cracks in the rubber replace it too. I would replace it with a ATI super damper. I can’t remember what all you have done with your car
Belt is relatively new, 15% pulley was installed not long before I got it. That's the only timing related mod there is on the car. The guys at the shop would just like to rule out small possibilities before doing something big like cleaning the head. When I replaced the cylinder 2 injector though, the thing did run a lot smoother. So they might have a point with the injector cleaner.
I think MCS02 is on the right track. If your MINI has a lot of miles I'd definitely change out that crank damper with an ATI. Nothing wrong with fuel injector cleaner. I pour a bottle of Techron in my cars at each oil change. I am very skeptical of oil cleaner. I'd just make sure you have good clean oil in there.
So I was thinking today, and decided to look up this video . And in the first 20 seconds he said that my problem is the sign of a bad crank pulley, (timing jutters, suddenly going into limp mode when under full boost), and a burning smell which I thought was the clutch). The oil is very clean, I changed it in may. The oil leaks are getting on my nerves but it doesn't have to do with this limp mode issue.