Unfortunately, my dad has moved to oregon, and took all of his tools with him. So I might just get the euro shop to do it. But thanks for the help guys!!! Addendum: What is the full list I'll need, any longer or shorter bolts that I'll need?
I’ll post more tomorrow if someone doesn’t pick up my slack first. But make sure youse the correct belt. The 15% pulley needs a shorter belt than stock. I’ll find the part number for you
Just my $0.02: Everyone gets the ATI, and it's good, but the PRW fluid damper is a better choice. It costs less, works across a broad rpm range, and never needs to be rebuilt.
Ok I am awake and have coffee. I know that money may be tight for a guy your age but a decent set of hand tools will save you lots of money. The belt has zero to do with timing. The car has a timing chain that keeps the cam and crank in time. As far as timing for firing the plugs the ECU does that via a crank position sensor. The stock crank pulley has a metal center where it bolts to the crank and a metal outer that the belt rides on. Between them is rubber. If that rubber is getting cracks in it it could be about to fail. That would be very bad. Some times when they are going bad they can cause odd problems. As far as your belt being fairly new, do you know if its the right belt? did the idler pulley and tensioner get changed at the same time? If not do it all. Some like @Dave.0 replaces his tensioner often. When running a smaller supercharger pulley you need that belt tight. this is the belt you need, Gates 1379mm / K060535. I like getting my parts from https://www.detroittuned.com Chad is a great guy and he will answer questions. As far as the crank pulley goes I got the ATI. It came with the bolts I needed. The crank pulley @myles2go used may be a great alternative. I don't know what it comes with but he can help with that.
Everything has been installed except for the belt tensioner, my rubber crank pulley was actually in really good condition, but I don't smell burning rubber anymore. I thought the tensioner had plenty of umph left in it, but with the belt still slipping, it will be replaced.
Are we talking about US or Britain I can’t see anything about origins maybe these people are all paranoid tweakers that don’t want to divulge anything about where they live but I live near Santa Cruz, californica
Oil has nothing nothing to do with engine management system except for a Savior — save your —engine light of some sort
so the car is still misfiring and sending itself into limp mode at higher rpm, tensioner and new belt are now on, I didn't have time to get to it until now, and I'm not entirely sure where to go next, the car runs perfect until it starts misfiring at WOT.
it's showing a misfire on cylinder 2, i was going to fiddle around with the ignition today, but alas, i forgot that my intercooler now blocks the spark plug wires
Check and make sure you don’t have corrosion where your plug wires go to your coil pack. If you have a meter check the ohms of your plug wires. Do you have a stock coil, I can’t remember if you got one or not
Also look at the wire that plugs into the back of the coil pack and make sure none of them have any brakes in them and the plug is in good shape
I switched back to a stock coil, the old msd one had corrosion on cylinder 3, tomorrow morning I'll get the tools I need, then I'll get to diagnosis.
This is just a thought, a long shot. I wonder if something is moving and causing a brake in a wire. Make sure every think is tight. When I get home tomorrow I will look and see if I can find the resistance for the plug wires. I will post them if I find it Good luck
So today I discovered that the car will go right up to 6000 rpm no problem with wires 2 and 3 swapped. I just expected the misfire to move from 2 to 3 but now it's gone entirely. I'm probably going to get new plug wires, and I think I hear some timing chain noise so I'll get a tensioner too. I'm still quite confused, not sure if the car is fixed or not but this is definitely somewhere.