Most liked posts in thread: For those that don't sew....

Should have shaved the bay while you had the engine out and prepping for a respray.

Looks phenomenal. I'm envious of your bodywork skills and resources. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing the stripped down pictures.

 

I'd love to but Motor On went on a bender and perma-banned me so I can't see :lol:

 

The OS Giken Super Lock LSD if very forgiving for many types of gear box fluid, but the Shock Proof is too thick for daily driving and not as kind on the synchros; MTL works great. I hope you didn't follow Madness' video direction for adding the fluid before joining the housing halves.

 

So here is the issue. Seems that other site takes MotoringAlliance.com and turns it into ****************.com when ever it is used.

While I have no issue with links to other sites it seems that one other site does not play fair. I'm not about to do the same to that site just because that is being a bad netizen and I don't stoop to those low brow tactics.

 

Yeah....... Thanks Nathan!

I thoroughly enjoyed being allowed to read about orangecrush's interesting build through your / our forum.:thumbsup :

Great work orangecrush and very nice Porsche GT3 orange. Very striking. You picked the right one IMHO.

 

Mark - duuuuuude - somehow I missed this whole story.... Track mishap?

But it's gonna look killa when done....

 

I've been following the thread, nice job on the rebuild. Should turn out awesome. Did you ever post any pictures of the car after the "wall experience" but before the tear down? I am curious to see it. It's amazing how strong these little suckers are.

Re: sewing site, the other day I was helping someone by posting a link within nam to a build that was now more updated here in motoring alliance (the works4me twincharge setup). I never posted a link, just mentioned the motoring alliance (without the .com). That post was originally removed and eventually put back after a couple of hours. Since that post I now have supervised posting with a couple hours' delay on every post. No warning, no notice, no reason, no anything. Big brother apparently doesn't like MA.

 

Careful what you say Mark...
They read your posts over here.:confused5:

 

Big brother's got an inferiority complex.

Sweet build, Mark. I might have to get down to RRR this fall just to see it in person.

 

If you type the link like this big brother doesn't seem to pick it up.
moc.ecnaillagnirotom

 

You can just post links there using bit.ly, tiny, shorturl and other free "short URL" redirection services.

 

nope. that's why I got banned....I had a redirect to M|A via tinyurl :-/

 

I got in trouble over there for posting a link to actual NAM vendor/sponsor. What a joke :mad2:

 

OK, I think we've had enough of that...

Wasn't this about a car rebuild after an on track whoops?

 

so I've heard, but nothing about that here.

 

If you add the fluid before the axles are in place, it will spill out when the gear box is turned upright. Granted Shock Proof will run slowly, but it will still run.


I think a few details are lacking in the video, like torque values, and threadlocker won't perform as it should if the ring gear bolt threads, and differential threads, are not degreased. If theadlocker had a chance to bond, the process begins in as little as 20 minutes, applying another torque sequence later after the initial application, disrupts the cure. What about lube on the lower bearing before placing in the case? The top one was shown getting lube. The amount of anaerobic flange sealer needed on the joining surfaces is very little, more than a very thin bead will push excess into the gear box. I don't think using an impact wrench on the differential while in the gear case is very sanitary and invites debris both from cured thread locker and possible metal particles to be introduced. Wiping bolts with the same rag that has magnetized metal bits contaminating it is in no way cleaning them. It doesn't need to be Clean-Room conditions surrounding the installation, but show a little respect by not wiping things off over an open transmission. Removing bolts should be in the same cross pattern as installation. Telling viewers not to strike with a bare hammer, but doing it anyway. It would also be good if viewers were informed it was an R53 used as an example instead of labeling it an R56 installation; different bolts, different locations. If the input shaft splines are not wrapped for an R53 to protect the seal, it will very likely damage it while removing and installing the case half with the races; the R56 shaft is a smaller diameter and isn't likely to come in contact. Protecting the seal is still a safe practice for an R56 install.

If you haven't installed it, I have at least the torque values in this overview http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/2nd-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-4/r56-clutch--lsd-installation-overview-84/, although it doesn't show details like the case bolt locations on the back side, or that they're E-12s.