If you add the fluid before the axles are in place, it will spill out when the gear box is turned upright. Granted Shock Proof will run slowly, but it will still run. I think a few details are lacking in the video, like torque values, and threadlocker won't perform as it should if the ring gear bolt threads, and differential threads, are not degreased. If theadlocker had a chance to bond, the process begins in as little as 20 minutes, applying another torque sequence later after the initial application, disrupts the cure. What about lube on the lower bearing before placing in the case? The top one was shown getting lube. The amount of anaerobic flange sealer needed on the joining surfaces is very little, more than a very thin bead will push excess into the gear box. I don't think using an impact wrench on the differential while in the gear case is very sanitary and invites debris both from cured thread locker and possible metal particles to be introduced. Wiping bolts with the same rag that has magnetized metal bits contaminating it is in no way cleaning them. It doesn't need to be Clean-Room conditions surrounding the installation, but show a little respect by not wiping things off over an open transmission. Removing bolts should be in the same cross pattern as installation. Telling viewers not to strike with a bare hammer, but doing it anyway. It would also be good if viewers were informed it was an R53 used as an example instead of labeling it an R56 installation; different bolts, different locations. If the input shaft splines are not wrapped for an R53 to protect the seal, it will very likely damage it while removing and installing the case half with the races; the R56 shaft is a smaller diameter and isn't likely to come in contact. Protecting the seal is still a safe practice for an R56 install. If you haven't installed it, I have at least the torque values in this overview http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/2nd-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-4/r56-clutch--lsd-installation-overview-84/, although it doesn't show details like the case bolt locations on the back side, or that they're E-12s.
LOL, I had to laugh when I read some of your disgruntlements from the video. As I and two of my techs were watching the video, we were laughing at some of the same things you mentioned. (ie. wiping the bolts with the same rag, using a claw hammer, using a impact gun...lol) Yeah, I saw many of the "amateur" things they did or misrepresented in that video. Anyway, on to your help. THANK YOU for the link. Lots of important torque values (as opposed to the none in the video...lol) I do want to ask one question though. I read it several times and didn't understand.... can you explain to me the bit about marking the bolts and tightening them down? You make a mark at the point the bolts starts to thread in, right? Then you mark when the head of the bolt bottoms out, right? Then what? I'm sorry, I missed what you were trying to accomplish. Thanks, Mark
I'll cover both bases, since I'm not sure which marks are confusing. The marks on the differential ring gear bolts are to verify the completion of each stage and keep track of the sequence. It is easy to forget which bolt was secured last and which is next. The first mark verifies the bolt has been torqued to 30ft-lb, after all bolts have received their first torque stage and mark, remove one bolt, apply threadlocker, torque to 65 ft-lb, apply second mark. Now you know at a glance that bolt has been torqued to the final value and from there you know which bolt is next. It is a quality control measure. The flywheel bolts are single use, with two torque value specs, and a torque angle specification. On the flywheel, after the bolts have been tightened to the second torque stage, a 90 degree torque angle is required. Rather than use a torque angle metering device, trace the start and stop locations that will constitute a 90 degree angle, the mark on the bolt is a corresponding reference point. You can also eyeball a ratchet or breaker bar arm, but when doing this on stands, you are usually in an awkward position and at disadvantage leverage wise. This way you can adjust leverage without loosing reference. Different bolts, different reasons for the marks.
The front seats are just JCW Recaro seats imported from the UK. The rear seats are custom made to match the fronts. Mark
Put everything together today. Damn, that video really was useless. Even the addendum piece of paper that comes with the OS Giken clutch shows a bearing on backwards. I did not end up using the Shockproof tranny oil, I used regular MTL. Thanks again for your help, since the car was wetsanded and buffed today, hopefully tomorrow we can start putting it back together. Mark
Mark, saw the pictures and know that you kissed a wall at the track, but never heard the details. Can you share what happened? Jim
Warning: link is NSFMA. MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring - 3rd day on track with Alta's Access Port and tune... review Also, I'm imagining it went something like this: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQLM-K9TwWM]YouTube - In-car footage of Audi R8 Wreck at VIR[/ame] There's a nasty little dip after the first ess that'll spin you around if you turn in too early. But the good news is that Mark is okay, and when life gave him lemons, he made GT3 oranges. =)
I caught this last night during my blue-moonthly visit to NAM. That looks really great! Love the color.
Didn't know if you have seen this one over in the UK (MiniTorque - gazkart) The Orange One!! Awesome orange R53.