I guess you need to lube the bejezuz out of the rotational part of the powerflex style to make sure they last and don't squeeze out.
The Powerflex have ribs carved out of the center barrel to hold lube. They should last quite a while assuming you don't power wash them with HCL :crazy: I agree with Keith's comments that the multi-piece bushings like the Powerflex pictured above [shown during installation in a R56] are better than stock or Bav auto, however they're still not as good as a spherical bearing like ALTA or Madness's tubular control arm setup.
HAHAHAHA! I was figuring that was the purpose of the grooves.. Well that is just groovey!! Now Nitro just needs to send me some of his lube that has not been contaminated by any of his late night workshop activities. :yikes:
Slightly off-topic, but in regards to the movie...what is the limiting factor of upwards travel when you have the stock bushing (as shown around 00:46 in the video)?
I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking, but at your lowered position the OE bushing is at its stretch limits already. To compensate for the extreme LCA angle, the bushing should be pressed out and turned 20 degrees when reinstalled. I re-thought your question and set-up a jig to make a rough estimate for the R56 inner ball joint’s articulation limit. An R56 arm can go an additional 3 inches upward at its end before the inner ball joint locks. OE strut travel would be a little less; I can make a guess that it is possible the ball joint could lock if another type of strut system is employed. The OE bump stop would activate before the ball joint reached its limit. Perhaps Ryan has measured the OE R56 strut’s travel?
The R53 & R56 struts have the same stroke; 5.5" including bumpstop compression with very similar control arm angles.
K-Huevo maybe without the spring/shock the components have more free travel than the complete system together allows? Rally should be running custom arms anyways for the way he likes to ride dirty Shorter length lower control arms to help with the neg camber
He’s one of the pan-dragging crowd; he wants longer rear lower control arms for the look and so the top of the tire doesn’t rub on the arch trim. I was under a lowered R56 today and there was three inches between the pavement and the inner ball joint bolt, the ball joint was already close to its limit. If there is 5.5-inch stroke and 3 inches are consumed with stock springs at rest, very little remains, lower another 2 inches, well you get the picture. I would venture to guess with the air out of the bags the arm is stressing the ball joint before the bolt shaft touches the pavement. BTW, the R53 inner ball joint bracket has a few degrees of angle designed into the bracket.
Back to the question after a few have weighed in here, I'm going with the ALTA PSRS. Bushing sleeve installed with Loctite 603/648 Retaining Compound. Knurled cup-point set screws with Loctite 242
Norm, I am not too familiar with all the loctite brands - I could easily google search, but could you tell us why you chose each compound? Are those set screws different than what they come with too? It sounds like you have a pretty good plan
Which installed position works best for ALTA PSRS on a primarily street driven car / occasional auto X (daily driver)? Option #1 gives the most caster, roughly (1.5 degrees). Option #2 gives you added caster, roughly (.75 degrees), and added anti-lift.
I have driven both and the added 1.5 gives me a better "feel" especially during braking. When we install them for club members we always suggest the added 1.5
That would, i believe provide a more stable feel to straight line high speed driving. Does that setting also help resist tracking on pavement seams?
Added caster does improve straight line stability, but it also adds some more turning effort. It also will give a bit more added induced camber while turning. I had not even thought about the road imperfections, but thinking about it, it does seem as though the tramling has been reduced.