1st Gen R50 Cooper Gas Cap Solenoid...

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 8, 2011.

Tags:
  1. Nitrominis

    Nitrominis Banned

    May 9, 2009
    1,217
    61
    0
    Doing nothing
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Ratings:
    +61 / 0 / -0
    Nice work Erica.

    One thing, "wire taps" are a lazy way to make a connection and can cause continuity issues later. Lead wires are not meant to be tapped into in this fashion. A wire tap was devised as a temporary connection only until a proper one could be installed. Over the years that thought has been lost in the none professional sector?

    Can you imagine the Space Shuttle using "wireTaps"? :lol:

    Do it right if you need to use an existing wire cut the wire, add an additional lead wire ,solder and seal it via shrink tube or liquid tape.
     
  2. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
    Lifetime Supporter

    Sep 27, 2009
    1,212
    116
    63
    Female
    Ratings:
    +121 / 0 / -0
    Now that I know which wires are which, I will go back & do it the proper way as soon as I get my hands on a new soldering kit.
     
  3. Norm03s

    Norm03s New Member

    May 5, 2009
    4,936
    534
    0
    Working at being retired.
    Somewhere in Sykesville. Md.
    Ratings:
    +534 / 0 / -0
    Soldering

    I just purchased a Craftsman Medium Duty dual heat Soldering Gun - 100/140 watt.
    Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
    You might want to consider one like this or similar.
    After installing some driving lights and using a 35 watt pencil type soldering iron to do all connections I decided more heat was needed. The pencil type is more suited to electronics and component replacement. It just takes to long to heat the parts when soldering 12~18 gauge wire into terminals and doing splices.
    It always pays to use the right tool for the job.
     

Share This Page