1st Gen R50 Cooper Most liked posts in thread: Gen 1 Ground locations in engine bay

When you loan tools to family they are best considered gifts. The odds of seeing them again is very slim. :frown2:

The tools not the family.....

 

"when it comes to money, business or tools, there's no such thing as friends and family!"

Something to think about.

 

The strut tower bolts worked well as a ground for my second set of driving lights.

Jim

 

The first thing I recommend before adding electrical devises is to improve the oem grounds. First would be to replace the factory ground at the battery with a larger multi-strand core cable. Electricity travels in a circular motion which generates electrical heat that translates into a resistance. So the larger the core along with more and smaller strands of wire is better with a 12-24 volt system
The first Gen MINI has limited specific grounding area's for the on-board oem electronics's. Adding any high amp electrical devices tends to create problems in the future with them and the oem electronics's without first improving or adding additional grounds.

I added several extra braided straps throughout the chassis, body, engine and a complete new ground cable at the battery and battery to chassis.
It is very inexpensive and well worth doing only takes a couple hours of labor.

 

Don't use those mass grounds with all the brown wires, it will cause faults in the computers.
best bet is to attach it to the headlight ground if you have one near the hood hinge on the drivers side. Or you could ask your neighbors for help...

 

Chuck you left a couple words on the key board ....I fixed it for you :cornut:

Any cleaned bare metal on the chassis with a bolt going into it makes a good ground.

Additionally,
it is always a good idea to use some sealer after the attachment of the wire or cable.

 

Erika, it's always better to have a switched power lead. One that powers on or off by the ignition switch...... if you have a choice and can find one. You don't want the power lead laying on a hot engine part or rubbing through the wire insulation while being directly connected to the battery. Think of unexplained engine fires.

Secondly, always fuse you power lead. And try to fuse it as close to the power connection as you can. As an example..... It doesn't do much good to add the fuse at the end of a long run of wire. Think of all the exposure that wire will have, rubbing on vibrating engine parts, or high temperature exposure that might melt the insulation. If that power lead shorts out on a metal frame member or engine part, figure on a fire or other nastiness. That entire wire run would be unprotected by a fuse at the wrong end of the wire. If the fuse is close to where you are picking up your power connection and you have a short, the fuse will blow, as it should, protecting your circuit.

 

Here's a picture or two:

 

You can use a 1/2" socket on that 13mm....

 

Tools do come up missing from time to time. That's why I have 3 of everything.... :ihih:

 

Some family members can be real tools......

 

What is it your trying to mount that needs grounding. There are a few places you can use. Some are more easily accessable and/or may be more practical to use...

Here are 3 choices off the top'a my head:
Main engine ground stud;
Passenger side firewall stud;
Passenger side fenderwell stud (some catch cans mount very well here).

Best'a luck!!!

 

How about that large GRD cable from the upper engine mount to the chassis on the passenger side. That's what I used for aux driving light's.

 

Any metal on the chassis with a bolt going into it makes a good ground. I would use the bolt you pictured. I use that for my driving lights.