Most liked posts in thread: Got the Mini today!! Need help getting it started!

I took the car in and they fixed it today. They said they had to reprogram the cars modules and they also replaced my window motor and regulator/window track. total is around 450$ but the car runs good and the window works prefect now. And also they told me my power steering pump is bad and so I will pick up a new one and replace this. Is it a pretty straight forward job or do you need to replace a whole bunch of stuff when you do it?

 

Actually it was 355$ Diagnosis, ews reprogramming, window motor and regulator track assembly installation. The car must already have an exhaust on it cause it sounds pretty loud and really good. I bought a new power steering pump and am waiting on that for right now, no power steering so its hard to say how it feels while turning but it shifts very smoothly and it accelerates just as nicely. I didnt know 1st gear would go to 50mph haha. That is insane. I think a fluid flush, belt and new pulley, all new ebc brake rotors and pads, as well as a new m7 intake is in order. To get her how I want oh and + some new rims and tires, but that will be last. I hope to get it all done this month.

The solution to the problem was a new ews module and programming of it. Totally cost for this was 166$ for parts and 110$ for labor.

I have about 2 grand into the car now.
//Dealership labor(350$)
//EWS module(166$)
//New taillights(100$)
//headlight projectors(200$)
//h.i.d.s for high and low(100$)
//new side marker lights(20$)
//front driver blinker assembly(40$)
//rockford door speaker amp(200$)
//alpine door speakers(70$)
//kenwood stereo(150$)
//the window parts(140$)
//driver door inside handle bezel(20$)
//Then a power steering pump(380$)
1940$ or something is the current tab

and I need:

//Brakes all around pads/hoses/discs(500$)
//m7 intake(250$)
//belt,15% pulley,spark plugs(200$)
//new front grill honey comb style in black color(70$)
//rims and tires(1500$)

So I will have about 8000$ into the car when all is said and done.

What do you all think? I love the car btw

 

The lights are all screwy too. I don't understand what is going on with them. I have never seen a car where when the key is out of the ignition and you press the brakes that the brake lights still don't light up. This car is doing that. Half the lights work and half of them don't. For instance the front left bright works where the front right headlight works. I checked the polarities of the wires on both headlights and the main 3 wire harness coming in on the driver side(one with the working bright) the green/white wire is +12v and the other 2 wires are grounds.. Then the passenger headlight(working lowbeam) the green/yellow wire is 12v and the other 2 are grounds...

The taillights are messed up too. The taillight running light on the passenger side works just fine but the drive doesnt. I swapped the light boards leaving the bulbs alone and they both light up fine(while plugged into the passenger side) then I try both in the driver side and neither lights up.

Both fog lights work fine thankfully. I found a little bulb beside what I think is the driver turn signal(between the headlight housing and foglight) and this little clear bulb just had a socket with no connector i found the wires for this socket and they were cut and just tied together... Uh I know that can't be right.

The side marker light beside the passenger wheel and in front of it(the real long skinny one that curves with the wheel well) works fine and then the driver one doesn't. This really has me worried with these lights all working like this. Only one of every pair of lights working. That can't be good.

Here are the CEL codes I have
P0420
P1692

I also have the EML light on.

 

Thanks for the reply. I am curious though since I am unfamiliar with this car but would any low fluid levels anywhere cause the car to not engage the starter? I noticed the power steering fluid was low but that was the only place I looked. The car doesnt even attempt to turn over and I don't hear a fuel pump but people have wrote on other forums/threads that it isnt so easy to hear.

 

Thank you everyone. I was anxious to log on and very thrilled when I saw all the replies. You guys rock! I am going to go to oriellys and get some stuff to start on this today. I noticed the negative terminal spun freely as well. So what I will do first is replace the rear negative terminal clamp and then try to jump start her. If that doesn't work then I will try and do the clutch plug removal and reinstall to see if its gummed up or something. Then go ahead and try with a magnet near it in different spots all around to try to get it to start. If still no luck I will literally pull every fuses one by one checking for any bad ones. Again you guys are awesome and I appreciate it! Have a wonderful and safe thanksgiving everyone!

 

I pulled every fuse all checked out fine. Then I added 2 50 amp fuses to the front box in the engine bay. And that seemed to fix the lights. they work perfect now. I can turn the lights on with the column switch while the key is out of the ignition too now. I replaced the ground terminal post on the battery with a new one that I could tighten down cause the one that was factory was loose and I could spin it around.

So now that the lights are fixed I am concentrating on the starter. I tried jump starting the car and I metered the battery at 12volts. I played around with a magnet on the clutch switch cause I read somewhere that this could work. Still no luck. I don't even hear a fuel pump or nothing when I turn the key from the on position to the starting position so I think the ignition is bad. Now if I buy a new ignition it won't work with my factory key? Will I need another key too? And do the keys have a chip or anything that needs programmed? I guess the only thing that needs programmed is the keyless lock system. I don't have a push to start or anything like that.

 

Well I took apart the steering column and metered the ignition and there is a dead signal from blue/black striped wire until you are turning the car over like it's sending ignition signal to something so the ignition is working cause it is sending that 12v out only when actually trying to start the car. if it is just in the run position this wire is dead.

I also metered the clutch switch and get 12v on the blue wire when I press the clutch in and when I let off it goes back to no signal.

Now I have the car up on jacks and am going to meter the starter. I am beginning to wonder if it isn't actually the starter solenoid or wiring in between. Maybe even a ground or something like someone said. Step by step though it's coming along great. I am super happy that the rest of the electrical is going great as far as the lights and dash and ect.

 

I am removing the exhaust manifold to get the starter out. Is this the proper procedure? It was that or remove the axle on the passenger side. This car is very very cramped