Yes that is correct the sons friend was the last one to have it working. I feel like the dash lights would only dim if the starter solenoid was able to transfer power to the starter motor and use power in some way. even if the motor was shot power would still cycle through it. There is a constant 12v supply to the solenoid which acts as a relay. Is there something I am not doing right that would engage the starter? Or is the starter spinning like it is without touching the flywheel a bad actuator or whatever it is called(the engager to the flywheel spring) I work on my other car a whole bunch. I did a full custom turbo swap on it. It was all on my own with nothing to research since there were no write ups on it. I took some pictures of the car today. Owner before the previous owner claimed to had just put a new engine in it cause it went out the one before it. He dropped in a rebuilt motor. There are lots of new shiny parts and the engine is really clean the bottom looks super dirty in the video before it had a torn axle and the grease just spewed everywhere but after wiping it down it is spotless and very shiny. I have some more on my other camera I will get them on here when I get out of the shower. I really appreciate all the help. You guys(and gals if there are any helping) are amazing and very knowledgeable people. This is my first bmw and my 2nd car ever. I have worked on suzukis only so this car is a walk in the dark to me. I know the basics are there and functions of stuff but I don't even know where the oil filter is at or the oil drain plug on this thing or which is the power steering fluid and ect.. haha I ordered a chiltons book from o riellys and will get it tomorrow.(closed early for thanksgiving... the only downside to holidays!)
well I'm not sure how you jumping the starter. If you are just putting 12v to the motor then only the motor will spin. You must jump the solenoid and power it so that it will engage the starter motor into the fly wheel. When I had a 69 mustang I would do that to check the solenoid but I am careful about jumping things on the Mini you could cause more problems. If you have the starter off ORiellys can test it for you. I'm not a Chiltons fan. Bentley is far better. here is a link to parts geek this is the best price I have found. 2002-2006 Mini Cooper Paper Repair Manual - W0133-1899292 Bentley - Fluids/Manuals/Misc 02-06 Cooper Paper Repair Manual - PartsGeek.com
Oriellys tested the starter and it is fine. I know the ignition is fine. So i guess im back to the :confused5: state
No 12volt signal at the starter solenoid when the ignition is turning over. I am guessing there is something with that clutch switch since I know it's getting 12volt ignition switch. Just to verify does anyone know the exact ignition pathing? Key ignition--> clutch switch---> fuse box ---> starter solenoid? something like that. I still don't have my book edit: There is an immobiliser that drops in there somewhere. All the fuses check out good, the clutch and ignition switches functions. Honestly all i think is now that it is that immobiliser. Now my question is, would the keyless entry work even if the key wasn't programmed for starting the car? Is the "proximity sensor" in the immobiliser box? If I replace the immobiliser will I have to have it repogrammed for my car? I found a box for 40$ on ebay but it is in the UK so it would prolly run close to 80 after shipping. What do you all think>
Chad at Detroit Tuned is good about answering questions. He helped me at the Dragon last year. You could email him or maybe one of the other sponsors. They are all helpful. I have just used Detroit Tuned. They know 10x more then I do. I have heard good things about Way Motor Works also. Most of the sponsors really go out of there way to help. When Chad helped me he was working on 3 other cars, good guy. Let us know what the fix was when you find it or if you need more help.
Well hot wiring the 12volts to the starter solenoid doesnt do anything haha. I mean its cranking over but I don't think there is any sparks going on at all
Try manually resetting the Fuel Pump Emergency Off/Inertia Switch: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r50-r53-hatch-talk-2002-2006/203086-mysterious-button-under-the-bonnet-hood.html RealOEM.com * BMW R53 Cooper S Fuel pump emergency off switch & here: MINI Cooper - MINI Inertia Switch - up to 09/2002 production Also,check the fuse module w/ B+ wire by the battery in the boot. As shown in links below: Check post #4 here: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/59739-help-car-wont-start-after-accident.html Or MINI Cooper - Fuse Module With B+ Wire - R53 Mini Cooper S & here RealOEM.com * BMW R53 Cooper S Battery lead/distribution box, rear
So I replaced the EWS computer and the car now cranks with the key but will still not start. At least the computer did fix something. Someone told me on another forum that the pcm needs to be reprogrammed to the new EWS. So I towed the car to my BMW dealership and they will get at it tomorrow sometime and hit me up telephonicly. I hope it's just the simple reprogramming. That would be sweeeeet!!! :deadhorse: Cause this is what I feel like happened to my mini lmao
Yee, reprogramming will align the codes. The ECU and BCM immobilizer codes need to match for it to start. Once you turn the key the code rolls and if they are not aligned the car won't start. Been there, done that, had the tow, twice...
I took the car in and they fixed it today. They said they had to reprogram the cars modules and they also replaced my window motor and regulator/window track. total is around 450$ but the car runs good and the window works prefect now. And also they told me my power steering pump is bad and so I will pick up a new one and replace this. Is it a pretty straight forward job or do you need to replace a whole bunch of stuff when you do it?
It's a pretty straight forward job in theory but it's a small pain in the butt to get the pump itself wriggled out and then wedged back in. Couple links to check. The first is mostly informational, the second includes some good tips and has a link to a pretty good how-to in the first post. 1st Generation MINI Power Steering Troubleshooting Mini Cooper S (R53): Power Steering Pump/Fan/Duct Installation
Pshhh who needs power steering, my classic Mini didn't have any power steering Glad to hear it starts now! I still take a good look over everything in the engine bay to make sure there isn't another problem ready to happen. Keep us updated!
:cornut: Great! Hey that's not a bad price for what they did especially if it was a dealership whose prices are controlled by management. Jason
Actually it was 355$ Diagnosis, ews reprogramming, window motor and regulator track assembly installation. The car must already have an exhaust on it cause it sounds pretty loud and really good. I bought a new power steering pump and am waiting on that for right now, no power steering so its hard to say how it feels while turning but it shifts very smoothly and it accelerates just as nicely. I didnt know 1st gear would go to 50mph haha. That is insane. I think a fluid flush, belt and new pulley, all new ebc brake rotors and pads, as well as a new m7 intake is in order. To get her how I want oh and + some new rims and tires, but that will be last. I hope to get it all done this month. The solution to the problem was a new ews module and programming of it. Totally cost for this was 166$ for parts and 110$ for labor. I have about 2 grand into the car now. //Dealership labor(350$) //EWS module(166$) //New taillights(100$) //headlight projectors(200$) //h.i.d.s for high and low(100$) //new side marker lights(20$) //front driver blinker assembly(40$) //rockford door speaker amp(200$) //alpine door speakers(70$) //kenwood stereo(150$) //the window parts(140$) //driver door inside handle bezel(20$) //Then a power steering pump(380$) 1940$ or something is the current tab and I need: //Brakes all around pads/hoses/discs(500$) //m7 intake(250$) //belt,15% pulley,spark plugs(200$) //new front grill honey comb style in black color(70$) //rims and tires(1500$) So I will have about 8000$ into the car when all is said and done. What do you all think? I love the car btw
:cornut: $8k in that MINI isn't bad at all. :cornut: Now seeing your MINI............If I had $8k..........I'd gladly give you $8k for it. Jason
Congrats on getting it running!! The ps fluid on the mini is not standard....so pick up some at the dealer....vw also uses it...some NAPA stores stock it....it is petrosin brand, and is not compatible with the common stuff...mix it and bad things happen....like seal go on the ps rack. Hopefully for such a high mile car, the motor/tranny will be able to handle the mods!! Diy'ing some stuff is a great way to save some $$, but as you found, some items are dealer only due to computer or speclized troubling shooting...but better than throwing parts at it.