Got the Mini today!! Need help getting it started!

Discussion in 'MINI' started by Tummi_Gummi, Nov 21, 2012.

  1. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Nice MINI congrats on getting it on the road. :Thumbsup:
     
  2. Steve

    Steve Administrator
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    #42 Steve, Dec 2, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2012
    Good call, I forgot to mention that. And as I understand it, it's not just a problem if you mix it, the weight and other properties of standard PS fluids are incompatible some way(s) with the first gen MINI's electro-hydraulic pump system. You need CHF-11S. It isn't cheap (which is one reason people tend to look for and try alternatives) but it'll be a lot cheaper than replacing the pump again and/or the rack. Get a 1 liter can. You'll use about 3/4 of it (or so?) and have a bit left over, just in case you find a leak somewhere when you're done with the pump.
     
  3. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    another happy Mini on the road
     
  4. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    #44 Tummi_Gummi, Dec 19, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2012
    Well just thought I would give everyone an update. The mini has been running great. Its got a rattle somewhere in the rear on the exhaust that is driving me crazy, no power steering is quite miserable too. Those can both easily be fixed. Uhm one thing though is the clutch chatters quite a bit until I press it in. The clutch feels fine and it shifts perfectly smooth but it just sits there when im not on the pedal at all and sounds like a rattle/chatteringnoise then instantly goes away when i press it.

    I have been pieceing back together the stock intake I got everything now I just have to go pick up the new k&n air filter. I also installed a 15% underdrive pulley. That wasn't so bad. The hardest part was the stupid tensioner haha. I did put a new belt on with it. The car factory was boosting 9lbs and now I get up to 15lbs. Runs good though! Fun to drive. Not as fast as my race car but I still think the mini is capable of high 14s right now. I just am never gonna launch it cause I dont want to break anything. I don't know how sdtrong the drive train is on this car yet. And is the internals forged at all ?
     
  5. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

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    Yup...that is the main difference between the r50 and r53...stronger internals. I'm sure somebody will chime in with the specifics, but you can push the stock r53 motors pretty far if they are health before things break...saved big

    The clutch chatter could be from
    1-an aftermarket non-dual mass flywheel $$$
    2-the stock dual mass could be stuck...makes kinda a "chewbackaaa" sound...usually get better after a few uses or in warmer weather.

    The exhaust rattle......check the hangers...they get bent or rust and get damaged. usually an easy fix.
     
  6. DneprDave

    DneprDave Well-Known Member
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    Could the clutch chatter be a bad throw out bearing?

    Dave
     
  7. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    hmm, maybe but wouldnt i feel some choppyness to the clutch or like some sort of sticking with it?
     
  8. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    A bad throw out bearing had a crunchy feel when you push the pedal down. Chatter like is being described is usually as mentioned, an aftermarket unit or a stuck duel mass one.
     
  9. Crashton

    Crashton Club Coordinator

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    Sounds like it may be the flywheel.
     
  10. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    Well I really hope it isn't the flywheel. It may have an aftermarket clutch. It has the 6 speed manual transmission. And it shifts smoothly through all gears. I can downshift smoothly as well. I can put her in 1st at 40mph with no problem. Is there any symptoms of a bad flywheel other than noise? Sometimes when taking off from a start ill get a whine from the front end somewhere like im letting off the clutch too late. Also the rear left wheel sounds like its sticking to the road. It sounds like a brand new tire on a waxed concrete floor but only in one spot so i hear it every time the wheel spins. And I have a pretty big vibration at 50-60mph. A shop said I had bad control arms and my front right axle boot is shooting grease all over the place. Gonna need some work done but I really want to hold off so I can get my race car fixed. I moved the red car over all the way in the garage and I now have them both fitting in there. I will take a picture tomorrow and post it.
     
  11. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    If it is a light rattle that you hear when the clutch is not pushed in but go's away when the clutch peddle is pressed than it is more than likely the through out baring. My 02 has been doing that for about 7 years. If it gets loud or you start to feel vibration when you push the clutch in then you will need to take care of it.
    the front control arm bushing and axle boot need to be addressed.
    For the control arm bushings use power flex bushings. I ordered them from Detroit Tuned. They will do a exchange and send the new bushings presses in for you. To get the old ones off you will have to drop the sub-fram. It sounds bad but it was easy.
    You can do the Boot at the same time. If it still has grease on the cv joint and no dirt, you can clean it and replace the boot. I got my Boot from BMW it came in a kit with every thing you need. Do not drive the car with a bad cv joint boot.
    I hope this helps
    One more thing. I have been a BMWCCA member for a long time. I had a few before I got the MINI. As a BMWCCA member you get a discount at BMW on parts, when you must use the dealer. Also you get a pretty good magazine.
     
  12. ZippyNH

    ZippyNH Well-Known Member

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    If it is just flywheel noise...either from a stuck dualmass flywheel, or just noisy from beaing a single mass one with a sprung clutch, it does not really effect the car any...just noise.
    Going to a conventional solid clutch saves big $$$...about $600 if i recall right, only real drawback is nvh...and you CAN get a lighter conventional one.
     
  13. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    Sorry Zip, what is NVH? I wasn't sure if you could swap the bushings on the control arm or not. So I was just gonna order all new control arms. What do you mean by removing the subframe? I need to order the car shop manual. But does anyone know if there is one available for download? Or if someone enjoys scanning pages for members :D

    I am going to have look up those bushings and when you say they exchange you mean I send in my entire control arms to them then get rebuilt ones back?
     
  14. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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    NVH = Noise, Vibration and Harshness.
     
  15. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    This is what you need:

    Powerflex Front Control Arm Polyurethane Bushing kit - Way Motor Works

    We do offer these Pre pressed into Brackets for only $100, CALL to check on cores.


    If ordering Pre pressed option, You will be charged $180 and when you return your cores we will promptly refund $80 for the cores, making the prepressed bushings only $100. If you have questions about this please call and ask. We use to not charge the core charge, but thanks to many customers either not returning them or waiting a long time we had to change to this policy, sorry.
    0%
     
  16. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    I installed a Valeo clutch kit in a 100K mile '02 Cooper S last week, it came with the flywheel of course and the owner reports no additional NVH or vibration, he also feels the flywheel/clutch assy is lighter and the engine revs more easily. Finally, he says the clutch feels like a Honda (he means that in a good way too), light, precise, engages smoothly and just works. He's thrilled with it!

    When we took the old flywheel out - I don't know how much effort should be required to turn the sections between each other, but it took so little effort it's no wonder they chatter on engagement.

    I highly recommend you consider a Valeo clutch kit to replace the OEM, it's about half the cost too.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    Thanks for the post guys. I just ordered new tires and rims. I really had to, I am sure the wheels were unnecessary but they were only 140$ a piece. I felt this was a good price and time to get them because I could have bent rims and also now I won't have to go schedule an appointment at a shop to get things mounted and repainting these factory wheels. These are my old tires.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Lookin pretty bad haha. I ordered

    4 17x7 Sparco Assetto Gara White In Stock $143.00 $572.00
    4 Required centering ring. In Stock N/C N/C
    4 205/45RF-17 Yokohama AVID ENVigor ZPS Run Flat
    Download Warranty Brochure PDF In Stock $199.00 $796.00
    4 Mount and Balance (No Charge) In Stock N/C N/C
    4 Road Hazard Protection In Stock $19.03 $76.12
    1 McGard locking wheel bolt set with black finish head In Stock $40.95 $40.95


    so 1650 down the drain. I still need to replace my power steering pump and swap out I guess just those control arm bushings. My passenger side axle has a ton of grease blowin out of it so I will be replacing that as well. I need new rear brakes too... the list feels huge sometime but the new wheels/tires just knocked a huge chunk of it off for me.
    I am thinkin the control arms/bushings should be next.
    I am going to replace the sway bar bushings, fix control arms, and replace upper passenger side mount bushings, as well as the lower rear motor mount.

    I was wondering though on the contorl arms from wmw they sell them for 100$ a piece. is this all I need? Or would I also need to buy the bushings as well? I wanna get these taken care of asap since the last mechanic I took it to said that the contorl arm bushings were completely shot.
     
  18. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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  19. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    #59 Tummi_Gummi, Jan 22, 2013
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
    This is my mini cooper s 15psi
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ye8lkoBowKE&list=UUiPsAojni7zRVqNQjpp-7bw&index=1]Mini Cooper S WOT fun! - YouTube[/ame]
    This my race car: Its a suzuki aerio, I know it seems slow for what you would call a race car but this is with the turbo practically turned off. I was tuning the n/a of my larger fuel injectors. I believe the video is of a 30-115 mph run.
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNSFJvVGVMo&list=UUiPsAojni7zRVqNQjpp-7bw&index=11"]Suzuki Aerio Turbo progress in tuning be easy on her - YouTube[/ame]

    Heres a video if you like to hear blow off valves
    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUmB7HEvl1U&list=UUiPsAojni7zRVqNQjpp-7bw&index=12"]Suzuki Aerio Turbo AEM Shift Light test - YouTube[/ame]
     
  20. Tummi_Gummi

    Tummi_Gummi New Member

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    #60 Tummi_Gummi, Feb 2, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2013
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    swapped the bushings in the sway bar brackets and the control arm rear housings on the front end. So MUCH better. You could kick the wheel a couple inches now it hardly budges 1/8th inch

    My axle boots are blown and pouring out grease so I am wondering what to do here. You all know about the chattering of the throw out bearing. So I got thinking.. Hmmm now that I have access to a lift I could easily pop the transmission off. Do a full racing flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/ maybe some performance axles? I have a new rear engine mount left to install I should get it next week from WMW(backorder)

    I know a lot of vendors are on here scourering the forums so if you have any axles or performance flywheel/clutch kits I would love to hear what u got to sell. Those WMW bushings are FANTASTIC!! I love love love love them!!!

    I need :
    axles
    performance clutch/flywheel/pressure plate
    power steering pump
    ???rack and pinion bushings???? I question is this worth it or not?
     

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