1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Got the subframe out. Now what?

If your swaybar bushing look questionable replace them. Rather than change out the front swaybar I'd recommend installing a set of IE fixed camber plates. Those plates along with a good alignment will make you MINI really handle.

 

I'd think replacing "everything" would depend on the miles and how it's driven. Since it seems to get driven in a spirited manner, if it had miles too I'd also replace the ball joints and tie rod ends, it's so much easier to do now than in the car. Sway bushings don't wear much, but again, they're so easy to do now and almost impossible to do later without dropping the subframe again......the camber plates are also easy to do now, so why not?

Lastly, take a good hard look at the top bearing mounts, the rubber can crack with age.

Once it's all back together, a good alignment and you're good to go for many, many miles.

 

You all missed the most critical step after going through the hassle of dropping the subframe.

And that is....wait for it, it's worth it.....

Drink a beer.

Then worry about the rest of that crap.

 

I would change out everything, all bushings, even the steering rack bushing, the ball joints, even the tie rod ends. Check the actual power steering lines, good time to replace them also if anywhere near bad. Think about it, do you really want to drop it again?

 

Front sway bar bushings are not really prone to problems. Just give them a good lube and all should be good.

 

+ 1 on the power steering lines & tie-rod ends.

 

Do it all now, just my opinion.

 

Nice lift! When I dropped my subframe I thought it was rather easy only issue was that I needed to have the car about 2" higher to be perfect.

 

I am in the same position right now - subrame on the floor. Almost everything is being replaced. What came up unexpectedly is that my front sway bar is heavily rusted underneath the driver side bushing. Sanded it but the bar is now thinner there and rough, will definitely eat up the new bushing. so, do I get one of those Hotchkiss or Eiback bars? Or just another rust free junk yard R53 bar?

There's not a lot of info out there on those aftermarket front sway bars. used on ebay is $55, the aftermarket stuff is all $250+, so that matters, given the car ran just fine with the OEM, Given I am already replacing all bushings, ball joints, PS hoses, axles, wheel bearings and brake rotors, this has been a pretty expensive subrame drop already. End links, still have to order a set of those.

 

I'd stick with the stock bar, buy a good clean used one and you're good to go

 

When mini ran the R53 as a challenge car they even saw no need for the addition of a larger sway bar.

 

ha. good to know I made the right choice. Got me a clean OEM on ebay for $52 shipped and it is already here. Perfect condition where the bushings mate with the bar. Going in once the last package of front end parts (end links and the small power steering hose) arrive.

This will be better than new when the car goes back together. Am somewhat worried about getting that steering column thing back into the bracket, but we'll get that sorted like the rest of the job.

 

The biggest problem with connecting the steering column to the rack is the lack of space to work. Mount he subframe in place and then swivel the end of the column onto the input shaft of the rack. I just did mine yesterday. The tedious part was tightening the nut.

 

When remving it, access to the nyt was ok with the axles out - I don't expect that to be hard, but now I realize my mistake: To facilitate nut access, I had the column turned 180 degrees from what you suggest. That way the bolt was where I needed it. I had no idea it swiveled in any direction to facilitate installation. I suppose I now need to deal with the problem on the install side of things, because there's no way I can rotate that shaft in the PS rack to match a turned steering wheel that would move the bracket to the opposite side.

Oh well. I did paint everything that was slightly rusty with POR-15 yesterday - good as new. One new A-arm arrived. Still waiting for PS hose and end links, but some time next week, I can tackle this re-install. That motorcycle jack I have will come in handy to balance that subframe properly.

 

Good timing! I'm seeing this operation in my near future as the new 2005 JCW I just got already has the leaking PS hoses (crimp hoses are crap, MINI!). I'm going deep on a refresh, so I'll probably 'do everything'. I just noticed that Detroit Tuned has 2 packaged sets with all of the bits and pieces for this operation.

I've also gotta go deep in the engine bay... time for a bunch of new gaskets, a new crank pulley and oil pan seals. Looks like I get to get dirty!

 

Oh yeah... I remember looking into upgrading the front sway on my first R53. The consensus was, as you have already heard, that it really wasn't necessary and that some additional camber up front is about all you need (and perhaps the powerflex bushings while it's easy to reach the bolts). The rear sway is absolutely necessary, however... massive upgrade!

 

My rear was upgraded when I bought the car, but that doesn't mean I am done with that end of the car

Now that I have a "daily driver" R53, my original dark gray Mini will become the no compromise fun car build, so this winter it's time to tear into the rear suspension and make that all R56 grade aluminum control arms, poly bushings, 4 Helix (currently just 2) control arms. And maybe, just maybe, if that Miltek I ordered 4 weeks ago doesn't get shipped soon, I'll cancel that order, relocate the battery and build a custom straight through exhaust, so I can do some diffuser mods, spit flames out the back and raise the dead with that extra noise such a muffler setup will produce. On the other hand, the Miltek is going to be a nice upgrade right now. Can always move it to my son's car, who also wants that exhaust.

 

Won't have the spitting flames, but BlimeyCabrio was able to install the GP2 rear diffuser on his R52S/GP Roadster with a Miltek exhaust installed and no need to relocate the battery. Unfortunately all of the pics on his blog and his build thread seem to be lost due to the photobucket issue.

I think ColinGreene also has the GP2 diffuser installed with a Miltek on his R53.