Product Review Most liked posts in thread: GYEON MOHS Coating

That looks great Lee. If you lived a little closer, you'd have an F56 to do too.

I've printed out most of what Dave has written about the process and gave the info along with a couple of video links to the guy that does my car. It's going to be a little while before I get him to coat mine. Still have some mechanical stuff I want to finish first.

Again, the Helmet has never looked better.

 

Most of the time, for my cars, I wash 'em frequently enough that I don't worry about a special wheel cleaner... soapy water will do just fine. I've got some additional nooks on Rufus' new wheels that are deeper than my normal brush will get to, so I decided to splurge for a deeper clean before I coat.

 

I agree about cleaning wheels. That’s why I coat them also.

 

Back when I raced I used good old kerosene to clean all the black marks off the paint. Although I didn't worry about the paint much on that car.

 

WD-40 works real good too.

 

You can use WD-40 or anything that you want. Just as long as you don’t use lacquer thinner or acetone the coating will hold up.

 

No, do not put Gyeon MOHS or any paint coating on glass.

Manufacturers have special “glass only’ coatings for glass.

 

Ok I am a pro detailer and no one in the business uses waxes any longer.

Just because some one owners a Porsche, Benz, Lamborghini or any other expensive car does not means they know anything about maintaining or caring for the car or it’s finish.

Sorry but wax is 80’s Tech. Zymol carnauba does not last longer than a few weeks at best.
AutoGreeks “McKee’s “ crap is just private label products that have failed and Autogeek bought them up and slapped their owners name on them. I have been in this business for well over 30 years and know what I am talking about.
Overrated Griots polymer “Sealants” might last 6 months or long but not one year.

Ceramic coatings were developed in Japan (not Germany) and Japan is the cutting edge of car finishes and protection Carbon and Ceramic coatings last years and protect a cars finish 100 times better then a thin sealant or thinner dirt trapping wax. You cannot wash off a ceramic or carbon coating on a car with any chemical unless you wash your car with strong acid like lacquer thinner. You must use a machine wth a strong cutting compound

Gyeon Skin after just two coats of MOHS will give you super slick & ultra hydrophobic, UV and Fallout protection from Bird dropping and acid rain like chemicals for YEARS.

These are all things none of the former best “Traditional “ waxes or sealants can touch or offer period.

 

F11 is garbage. It’s all hype.

 

You only need to wipe it down with CURE if you are taking it out in the rain before 24-48 hours of curing.

Otherwise you can just park it out in the sun and the suns UV’s will cure the coating faster.

CURE is just a maintenance spray you use every month or so after washing. It’s not really a quick detailer.

I don’t even use CURE at all.

 

It lives up to the hype.

 

Dave.0 with gyeon mohs coating what do you recommend using to remove tire marks after an HPDE track event? Cure removed some of them but not all.

 

Hey Dave... do you coat the glass with Gyeon MOHS as well? I used to do anything except for porous plastic w/ Zaino, including the glass.

I decided to use my daily as a tester for my first trial w/ Gyeon. I got it washed and clayed last weekend. I've got a good bit of polishing to do and I'm going to have a PDR guy come out and spend a few hours on it (lots of little dings over the past 10 years) before I coat.

 

Cleanse, correct, protect and, shine.
I've been the Shinemeister for our Regional Porsche and Benz Clubs for about a decade now.
According to all the Germans I know...German stuff is the best!
I start out at Detailed Image https://www.detailedimage.com/
1.) Cleanse.
A citrus wash can be mixed as mild or strong as you like. I use Chemical Guys and it can strip off all the old finishes yet do no harm.
All car washes have a shine formula that you don't get from dish detergent.
2.)At this point, you need to remove the very fine 'gunk'.
Instead of 'clay'(when you drop it...throw it away) get nanoskin wash mitt. https://www.detailedimage.com/NanoSkin-M54/AutoScrub-Medium-Wash-Mitt-P702/
It's good for 60-100 uses and, if you drop it, just rinse it off!
Now, while you still have the bucket of suds, wash the car again with the mitt. Chrome, wheels, glass, door handles, etc... And rinse that off.
3.)Dry with a leafblower or buy an expensive car dryer.
And follow up with some old terry towels.
Your car is now clean!
If any blemishes are apparent use the softest abrasive needed(do no harm).
You can do this by hand. I use Menzerna3500 or 3800 and then sonax paint cleaner(nano tech)
I use the professional Flex orbital polisher and highly recommend it! With Lake Country pads.
4.)Use any finish you want! Very sparingly.
Zymol 1# Carnuaba is pricey but so,so cool! It smells good too! (Lasts about 4-6 weeks)
Griots Acrylic polymer is always a grade A job and super easy!
For a glass coating check out McKee's(you might have to go to Autogeek). I've done a gazillion club member's cars(all types) and it's so easy to put on and gives more than the best bang for the buck!
5.) Spray Detailer
Everyone is different and, everyone gives a different shine. Try some obscure ones for different options.
6.) Get a cover for your baby and don't ever put it on her when she's still dirty

Shine on everyone!
I'm gonna go wash my car now!
Rugs