You can use WD-40 or anything that you want. Just as long as you don’t use lacquer thinner or acetone the coating will hold up.
Hey Dave... do you coat the glass with Gyeon MOHS as well? I used to do anything except for porous plastic w/ Zaino, including the glass. I decided to use my daily as a tester for my first trial w/ Gyeon. I got it washed and clayed last weekend. I've got a good bit of polishing to do and I'm going to have a PDR guy come out and spend a few hours on it (lots of little dings over the past 10 years) before I coat.
No, do not put Gyeon MOHS or any paint coating on glass. Manufacturers have special “glass only’ coatings for glass.
I polished out my daily driver, a 2010 Volvo XC60 (a nice metallic cranberry red) a week or so ago (after a wash with strong soap and a good clay bar), testing the Gyeon 'polish' product for the first time. It's wasn't very aggressive and I had to scale up to a bottle of Sonas Restore that I had in the garage... I didn't feel like being out there for 20 hours, but the Gyeon polish made for a nice last step. Gyeon makes a 'compound' polish, so I may need to give that a shot. The 'polish' would have been plenty for my R53 which is in great shape, but the Volvo gets stored outside and needed something more serious. The Gyeon 'polish' did have a nice working time before it dried out and gave a beautiful result. Easy to clean-up as well. I laid 3 coats of Gyeon MOHS on the Volvo this weekend. When putting the last coat on the car, I almost forgot the roof. I pulled the ladder up and put the last bit on up there. Unfortunately, I must have shaken a drip out of the MOHS bottle and when I walked back into the garage a few hours later, I spotted the big drip down the side of the car. That shit was ROCK HARD! It speaks well of the product, but I just spent 10-15 minutes polishing that drip off of the paintwork! I was surprised at how much product it took (3 coats on the SUV + wheels used the whole bottle of MOHS). It went on SUPER easy though. Lay it on thin, let it flash off for 20 seconds or so and then quick buff it off (without working that hard to get a nice, shiny panel). It takes a ton of prep work to get to a perfect (or as perfect as possible for my 10 year old daily driver) surface, but I'm very happy with the result. I'm doing the Syncro system, so (after I re-coat the panel that I just had to polish the drip off of and wait 24 hours) I still need to put a coat of Skyn (a very hydrophobic) sealant on the car, wait a day and then detail with the Cure spray-on product. before it's ready for use again. I'm lucky that I've got an extra car (My wife's Audi, the R53 and the Volvo) in our 2 person house. The coatings take at least a couple of days to apply if you are going as fast as you can, given the cure time. It might not be a product for everyone. Apparently it can take up to a full week to cure (some streaking might happen if you get it wet before curing), so maybe I'll leave it in the garage for a week (it's nice and hot in there anyway... will bake it on nicely). Because I had so much polishing to do and don't have a ton of free time, the Volvo will have been off of the road for 3 weeks by the time I'm done.
I let the Helmet sit in the garage for a week before I drove it. I am about to do my wife's Mini. I think on hers I will do the wheel arches at the same time. I should have done that on the helmet. I told her she will need to drive my truck for a few days.
I have found that the Gyeon brand compounds and polishes are not that good. I understand Gyeon wants you to use their “system” and products but one size does not fit all finishes. I like to pick & choose and test what I use nothing has push my “Go to” product from the top spot in a while. My main “Go To” compound / Polish / Finish liquid is Sonax Perfect Finish. It is a Pro product. https://www.esotericcarcare.com/sonax-perfect-finish/ Expensive? Yes, but what you can do with it covers so may other products it is worth the cost. 250 oz / 250 ml. 24,95 You can get a very good cut using it with a Rupes yellow pad and it will finish out great. If you want to go one step one switch to a soft Rupes White pad and it will finish like glass. I also love using “The last cut”........works almost as well as Sonax above. https://www.theragcompany.com/the-last-cut-compounding-glaze/
Oh the most IMPORTANT THING. Keep your pads clean and switch them out when polishing any car. Hood and maybe a top of a fender = 1 pad 2 doors = 1 pad or 2 Each bumper gets a new pad if hatchback Rear quarters = 1 pad Roof = 1 pad I use about 5-8 pads per car, depending on car size. MINI w/ sunroof = 6-7 pads SUV = 8 plus
Wow! I switch out when I feel like the cutting action is degrading and I'm trying to compensate by using more product. I'm sure it would take more if I was working on a car that needed a lot of work, but most of my cars are well cared for, so I haven't done a heavy restoration in a long time. Usually I'm just doing a slight surface oxidation polishing, so one step does the trick. The Volvo was a bit heavy as I was probably 6 months overdue for my usual annual Zaino treatment and it is stored outdoors, and I only used 2 pads for the primary. I had been using Sonas SFX 1, 2 and 3... a nice 3 stage polishing system. My bottles were a bit old and crusty though, but luckily for the Volvo, I had a decent bottle of their 'restore' product for the more aggressive stage of my work. The Sonas working time is a bit short, IMHO. Even when I'm working in the shade, I find myself wishing that I had a bit longer before having to re-apply polish.0 Maybe I'll give your Sonax a try. I feel no need to try and stick to the whole Gyeon line... as long as you are doing proper prep before applying the sealant, according to the manufacturer, there is no need to go crazy with an entire product line from one company. It was a bit of a PITA, but when I was using Zaino, after polishing, I'd re-wash the car to remove any residual oils/polishing dust and it was ready to go. Gyeon has their 'prep' spray which seems to do a very nice job. My new package of MOHS arrived late yesterday and I've got coat #1 of 3 on the panel that had to be polished out from the drip. I should be able to pop out to the garage a few times today and maybe I can finish the process this week. It would be nice to get the MINI back in the garage where it belongs.
I've been a Zaino (synthetic sealant... was the greatest thing some 20 years ago) guy since 2005. I'm 3 coats into the MOHS (a coat of Skin and Cure to go), but the one thing that I'm noticing is the lack of slickness on the fingers. After I got 2-3 coats of Zaino on the car, it would be so slick that you couldn't put the bottle of detail spray down on the hood as it would immediately slide off. The Gyeon Synchro system (so far) isn't nearly as slick. I really did like that feeling, so I'm hoping Skin helps out there. I did have a couple of fat water drops that hit the car after I rolled up the garage door. They almost exploded when they hit the surface and flew down the car. Hydrophobicity is HUGE with Gyeon.
Cleanse, correct, protect and, shine. I've been the Shinemeister for our Regional Porsche and Benz Clubs for about a decade now. According to all the Germans I know...German stuff is the best! I start out at Detailed Image https://www.detailedimage.com/ 1.) Cleanse. A citrus wash can be mixed as mild or strong as you like. I use Chemical Guys and it can strip off all the old finishes yet do no harm. All car washes have a shine formula that you don't get from dish detergent. 2.)At this point, you need to remove the very fine 'gunk'. Instead of 'clay'(when you drop it...throw it away) get nanoskin wash mitt. https://www.detailedimage.com/NanoSkin-M54/AutoScrub-Medium-Wash-Mitt-P702/ It's good for 60-100 uses and, if you drop it, just rinse it off! Now, while you still have the bucket of suds, wash the car again with the mitt. Chrome, wheels, glass, door handles, etc... And rinse that off. 3.)Dry with a leafblower or buy an expensive car dryer. And follow up with some old terry towels. Your car is now clean! If any blemishes are apparent use the softest abrasive needed(do no harm). You can do this by hand. I use Menzerna3500 or 3800 and then sonax paint cleaner(nano tech) I use the professional Flex orbital polisher and highly recommend it! With Lake Country pads. 4.)Use any finish you want! Very sparingly. Zymol 1# Carnuaba is pricey but so,so cool! It smells good too! (Lasts about 4-6 weeks) Griots Acrylic polymer is always a grade A job and super easy! For a glass coating check out McKee's(you might have to go to Autogeek). I've done a gazillion club member's cars(all types) and it's so easy to put on and gives more than the best bang for the buck! 5.) Spray Detailer Everyone is different and, everyone gives a different shine. Try some obscure ones for different options. 6.) Get a cover for your baby and don't ever put it on her when she's still dirty Shine on everyone! I'm gonna go wash my car now! Rugs
Ok I am a pro detailer and no one in the business uses waxes any longer. Just because some one owners a Porsche, Benz, Lamborghini or any other expensive car does not means they know anything about maintaining or caring for the car or it’s finish. Sorry but wax is 80’s Tech. Zymol carnauba does not last longer than a few weeks at best. AutoGreeks “McKee’s “ crap is just private label products that have failed and Autogeek bought them up and slapped their owners name on them. I have been in this business for well over 30 years and know what I am talking about. Overrated Griots polymer “Sealants” might last 6 months or long but not one year. Ceramic coatings were developed in Japan (not Germany) and Japan is the cutting edge of car finishes and protection Carbon and Ceramic coatings last years and protect a cars finish 100 times better then a thin sealant or thinner dirt trapping wax. You cannot wash off a ceramic or carbon coating on a car with any chemical unless you wash your car with strong acid like lacquer thinner. You must use a machine wth a strong cutting compound Gyeon Skin after just two coats of MOHS will give you super slick & ultra hydrophobic, UV and Fallout protection from Bird dropping and acid rain like chemicals for YEARS. These are all things none of the former best “Traditional “ waxes or sealants can touch or offer period.
I know that now that I have coated the Helmet I will never use wax agin. I thought it was hype but its not. Yesterday I ordered touch up paint for my wife Mini she has just a few small rock pecks then I will be coating her car. I won't coat my truck although its tempting, its just too big. Maybe I will use F11 on it
I got the "Skin" coat on yesterday and it added the slickness to the finish that I was missing. It's not as slick as my Zaino sealant, but it's much better than just MOHS. I'll go out for the "Cure" wipe-down today and then the car is officially "done." (other than letting it sit in the garage for another day or two). I'll post some pics soon.
You only need to wipe it down with CURE if you are taking it out in the rain before 24-48 hours of curing. Otherwise you can just park it out in the sun and the suns UV’s will cure the coating faster. CURE is just a maintenance spray you use every month or so after washing. It’s not really a quick detailer. I don’t even use CURE at all.
I didn't use Cure until about 3 weeks after I had coated my car. I used it agin last time I washed my car. So that was a little over a month between uses. I do like it but Dave is right its just maintenance. I have also found I like there Wet Coat. You can use it on coated and non coated cars, I believe @Dave.0 is the one that told me about it. I still have not had to use the Water Spot that came in the kit. I am not sure if I ever will. For that matter I am not sure what is is for. The one time it looked like I had water spots they were gone once i wiped down the car.
Wet coat is a great product also. It’s is so easy to use. Water Spot is for when you wash your car and you don’t have time to dry it quickly and the sun bakes in hard water from rinsing and creates water spots. Or sprinkler water drys on a dark hot car in the sun. To use water spot correctly you just spray a few shots in a MF towel and a small mist on the spotted panel and wipe until dry and hard water spots will be removed. I bring Water Spot with me to the Dragon every year for when I wash my car and get distracted (drinking) and don’t dry my car as well as I usually do.
Some say it does but I have not seen it personally. I only use a little squirt in a small area if I see a hard water spot.