1st Gen R53 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Happy new owner with a few questions

I am pretty sure this stuff could be better answered with some pics. I think I know the problem but would rather see it before I say anything.

Then depending on where you are, I am sure one of our great shops can help you get it taken care of. Looking at your location. Way Motor Works may be your best bet!

 

The switch sounds like the bonnet-closed/open switch, but like Tuls said, a pic would confirm that.

The fuel gauge is typically accurate, or at least trustworthy. When my red light turns on I still have at least 2 gallons left in the tank [meaning it'll take about 11 gallons if you fill up right then, out of a 13.5 gal tank], and that has been the case with all 3 of my R53's.

No idea on the burnt or sooty or the weird fan speeds. I'd remove the stupid plasma booster as it's most likely doing nothing but causing a fire hazard.

The serpentine belt runs the supercharger also and is prone to heavy wear, so replacement every 25k is a good idea.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

If not the fuse check the connection at the horn. It is hard for the plug to pop off but there may be some corrosion. It is also possible the horn its self has reached end of life and needs replacement. Not that dead horns are a common occurrence.

 

Replacing fuses is not normal. Maybe the previous owner added some device to the fuse that is stressing the fuse. However, 15A is pretty large. Maybe that Plasma Booster is on that fuse. Maybe some corrosion is causing higher than normal currents on that fuse. Get a manual and determine what else is on that fuse.

Replacing the power steering fan is normal.

The oily stuff could be the passenger side engine mount. It is common for them to leak and need replacement. Maybe it has been replaced but someone did not clean up the mess very well.

As people have stated, pictures will help.

 

The 05-06 and possibly up to 08 for the convertible have a fluid filled mount on the left side (passenger side) that is prone to leaking. MINI does replace these under warranty and even if you are beyond the mileage or time they may replace it under the goodwill policy. Never hurts to ask. The part is not that expensive but it probably will fail again over time. Texas Speedwerks has a replacement that will never leak. It is more expensive than the OEM mount but you will never need to replace it again.

 

There is a manual for sale on that other site in the marketplace Click Me

As to the plasma booster, go back to the OEM Coil and Wires.

 

Try amazon.com for a good price on a Bentley manual.

Can you see black goo under the engine mount? Does it look old (dried from old leak) or fresh (from current leak).

 

Many leak early in life. Mine leaked at 35,000.

 

My first leaked at less than 10K miles. Second around 25K and now I've gone to the TSW mount. It will never leak again!!

 

What color are those wires? Brown? If so, that's a general grounding lug, and all the brown wires are ground leads. Why they're burned is beyond me, but Tuls and Way would likely be able to offer some insight if you can provide more details. Pics would help. I'm wondering if the motor mount oil leak is masquerading as something "sooty" when it's really oil with dust in it?

Power steering fans are located low on these cars, and sucking a plastic bag into the fan (or over the grille of the fan) would cause it to burn up. When that happens, the fuse for the fan blows, which takes out the radiator fan and can cause an engine overheat. Have you checked service records? This can be prevented by installing a protective grille (I believe stock on your car) or an aluminum skidplate (relatively cheap, and an easy install).

The motor mount is fluid filled, and a common failure point on the '05-'06 tin tops, and the '05-'08 convertibles. When it fails, you'll feel a little more vibration (sometimes), but will notice some oil leakage usually out of the front of the motor mount. It's not a "catastrophic" failure, the car remains quite driveable. Replacement is the only solution, and OE hasn't changed design. A good option is mentioned above, and I'm going there when this one (my 2nd, first failed at 20k) fails.

Switch sounds like an aftermarket alarm system? Dunno. But... if the plasma booster (remove it) was installed, perhaps someone jacked with the electricals a bit? You may want to have that checked.

None of the other issues you mention (replacing fuses, horn stopped working, sooty burned wires) are things I've seen in the Forums either here or on NAM (MINI COOPER :: North American Motoring) in 4+ years.

Don't worry - these cars are pretty well supported and tend to last a good long time, even when driven hard. You'll get this sorted and enjoy the car. Good luck!

 

I fixed the links to the images.

From the first images it looks like the motor mount has failed and has leaked out all it's fluid.

 

I had my horn replaced at 20k, and I've gone through 2 engine mounts in 35k. No real surprises there.

I just looked under my bonnet (05 MCS tin top) and that wire block looks exactly like mine does (mine's inverted, though, wire bundle is closer to rear of engine bay). The unwired end is full of junk on mine so that's probably why it looks like burnt wires.

Oh, and while looking in there I just realized that the top of my strut on the passenger side is cracked :mad5: Darn potholes.

 

My wiring block looks the same way (well, a little less dirty) although I seem to have a few more grounds going to mine. That area is a real pain to keep clean and collects all sorts of grime and gunk under the hood, the best I've found is to use an old toothbrush (or someone elses current toothbrushes) on it as part of an underhood detail.