This info is not related to heavy steering feel.
From an installation perspective the best you can hope for when installing poly bushings on first generation models is a middle ground between arm travel bind states. Finding the middle ground without the subframe lowered is difficult.
With the subframe down, outer ball joint disconnected, and mounting bolts loose, one can see the fishtail movement poly bushings impose on the trailing bracket when the arm is raised & lowered, this is because the bracket attempts to align with a dynamic axis. To minimize poly bushing bind at upper and/or lower arm travel limits from this affect, take care when securing the mounts. With the inner ball joint bracket and trailing arm bracket bolts just loose enough to allow lateral bracket movement, lift and lower the arm, and set at a little above static ride height, then tighten the trailing arm mount bolts, followed by the inner ball joint bracket. After both sides are secured you'll probably discover the sway bar is difficult to move up & down, but that's what you get. If the arms are secured at full droop or full lift, the opposite position will bind.
Polyurethane lower control arm bushings remove tolerances engineered to allow free arm movement over the inner ball joint, reduces bushing elasticity (not a positive), and eliminates fluid dampening, which is a superior medium for absorbing vibration & heat. The engineer who designed the front suspension system also said the configuration assists in anti-dive & lift. The latest Powerflex bushing kit allows less movement than earlier versions; if one must install poly bushings, Madness bushings are softer than PF, and provide a slight bit of wiggle room front to rear.
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