UPDATE: Dissassembled the thermostat housing and removed all the hoses from the radiator. YUK! So nasty. Just got a replacement 3-core "racing" radiator that I need to have the drain plug fitted to (will drop it off today I think). I think I can salvage the thermostat housing and spacer - will try cleaning them up with a drill and some abrasives later this week. Still pondering carbs... I'm torn between just: A: Cleaning up the HIF38 (1.5") unit I have B: Upgrading to a HIF6 (1.75") unit (may require a better manifold as well) or C: Going whole-hog and fitting a PAIR of HS4's and a relacement dual manifold/linkage/heat shield assembly. C is definitely the most expensive way to go (upwards of a grand/$1200 for a ready-to-use bolt-on solution), but I hear it will give the best performance. Decisions... decisions... Honestly, given how little I've spent relatively on the car over the years (usually only $200-$300 a year for minor improvements and replacement parts) I guess I *AM* due an upgrade. Still... ((sigh)).
I feel you there. Been on that fence many times myself. I will offer this to you: If you get the suped-up carb/intake will it become a financial burden? Will you have to "live slim" or worry that you may not be able to pay for needed item? -If so, use the cheaper A or B alternative. It's never a bad thing to be financially sound in the decisions you make. -If not, go whole hog and get what you want. If you can actually afford it then do it because you know you will be happy with it once it's in. Either way good luck. I am enjoying this thread please keep posting pics and progress.
I can afford it... But it *is* more than I wanted to spend. Plus there's the issue of installation (will it fit? I'm adding a center-mount instrument cluster and am afraid of fouling) as well as how I balance two carbs vs. one. Plus what about timing? I guess I'll have to re-time the car anyway wince I'm doing the valves, but how should it differ with the two-carb setup vs. a single? I think I'll see how much more $ I'll need to spend on the clutch service and everything else I NEED (not want, but need) to do like the new exhaust (mine is about to fall off the car and is in need opf replacement BADLY), and then I can make a decision... Thanks!
AHHH!!! That is another monkey-wrench not mentioned. The install nightmare is always a tricky one. Complexity AND cost versus payoff. I'd say waiting for the other items (clutch & exhaust) would be good call. Perhaps you just go for the "beefier" carb (and associated potential manifold upgrade) in option B then if the mood strikes you next year you can always upgrade to the option C. :idea:
Matt if you throw a bigger carb or 2 carbs on you can possibly make your car run worse. You might need a more aggressive cam & a distributor with a different advance curve. How about a header & free flowing exhaust? You can't just do one thing without effecting other stuff. I'd call Paul & ask him for help on hopping your A series a bit. He is the most knowledgeable MINI guy I know. Also read David Vizard's book.
I tried reading the Vizard book, but I'm not sure what to shoot for performance-wise and it's VERY technical. Lots of graphs and charts... I hear what you're saying though. For now, I think the money is better spent on a set of Hi-Los and proper springs in place of my rock-hard rubber cone dampers - THOSE I'll notice every day. I hit the carb with soime carb cleaner last night - it got the worst of the grime off. Now they just need boiled and I'm ready to start polishing! Oh... and I have a VERTO clutch on Fiona - need to start shopping for the clutch service kit and my remaining gaskets... UPDATE: GBCarparts.com seems to have the best price on the verto clutch service kit - this kit has the diaphram plate, bearing, and disc - do I need anything else to service the clutch? I seem to recall that the actual mechanical linkage between the pedal and the actuator shaft can wear, causing unacceptable "slop" in the movement of the mechanism. Am I remembering correctly? If there's anything else besides this kit that I should look at replacing while I have everything out of the car, please let me know: http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CL-QKT172AF I'm also going to order: http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SU-HiLoSilver http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SR-SPRINGSBLUE http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SH-FRONTGMAX http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SH-REARGMAX QUESTION ON EXHAUST: I have a stock exhaust manifold and a stock exhaust which is ready to come out. I've heard good things about the Maniflow "magic" pipe (http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=EX-LDP1) which I'd connect to a center-mount muffler like this (http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=EX-XT13) via a cat-delete pipe (which I already have). The question is: can the magic pipe be hooked to a stock manifold, or must I (or even SHOULD I) also replace the manifold as well? Thanks as always!
Crashton is right in a general sort of way - if you improve one area you need to improve others in order to get the maximum benefit. The only way you wouldn't need to do this is to just leave it as it is..... However, the twin carb kit should be set up for your stock internals, and should work fine as it is - you'll be going with two smaller sized carbs rather than one big one - giving better flow and mixture. Timing and other tuning changes will be minimal, more of a fine tune than a broad change. One thing that will help tho is to go to a better flowing exhaust, the LCB header will make a nice difference in conjuntion with the twin carbs. Synchronizing two carbs really isn't that hard, but it's a bit time consuming learning the technique and you will need a uni-syn or the like for best results. No question a single carb is easier to tune for the uninitiated - two carbs just means more steps, but it's pretty much the same procedure. There's nothing new in what you're doing so there should be plenty of help out there on the interwebs....
Matt, I have a used, but still useable LCB exhaust manifold that could be yours fairly cheap. I actually would recommend you just clean up the 1.5 inch carb you have and using what you have. You start changing carbs, you will need a new exhaust manifold and intake manifold (as I seem to remember what you have is the one-piece combo intake/exhaust cast manifold). I'm not familiar with what the "magic pipe" is and what is required to hook it up. If you want to go whole hog, you should have the block bored to the next oversize, put in new pistons, a decent camshaft and lifters, along with the carb and manifold/exhaust system. Of course, you should replace the oil pump, timing chain, water pump and all engine bearings, main and big ends while you are in there. Then you would basically have a newly rebuilt engine that should be good for longer than the body will hold out. Now we're talking about $$$$. This is called "rebuild creep"..... When you are feeling stuck and indecisive, you know my number.... Paul p.s. You know I could have a complete Verto clutch -- I just need to check stock in the shed.
Thanks Paul! I'll take you up on the LCB - what's your price? If you have the verto unit LMK what you want for that as well. ANd yes - a tthis stage I'm just cleaning up the carb I have and spending my resources on other things, specifically better suspension (I'm quite certain my rubber cones are factory original and, hence, hard as creek stones). Since you're now in the parts biz, can you quote me a price (feel free to message me) for ythe stuff I linked to above or the equivalent, as well as a suspension compression tool (unless you have one I can borrow)?
Matt, I will check the stock tomorrow and let you know what we have and $. Prefer to do via email rather than forum. Look at my card and send me your email address, ok? Paul
Just emailed you at the address on your minimal-motoring business card - LMK if you don't receive it. Thanks!
Just a quickie... Polished the carb dash pot and some other assorted aluminum parts. Pretty good for a drill-job, I think: Finalizing parts list for Paul and MiniMania/7Ent./wherever for suspension, clutch overhaul, and gasket parts - should be ordering this week. Carb will hopefully go back together this week as well. QUESTION: I'm hunting for a good picture of the choke cable attachment to the HIF-38 carb - the mounting screw fell off the rocker plate while I was cleaning everything and I can't see how to re-attach it. It *looks* like it's missing a part but even the carb manufacturer's web site exploded diagram as well as the Haynes diagram isn't clear - can someone tell me is there a second mounting screw that threads INSIDE the main mounting post with the hole in it that traps the engine-end of the choke cable? It appears to be threaded on the inside, but I don't think there was anything in there. If anyone has a HIF38 (the stock, mild 1.5" single late-model carb) in their classic and can shoot a picture of the choke cable attachment point I'd appreciate it, as the manual is no help unfortunately. Thanks!
Finally, an update! Front suspension is cleaned, re-painted, and rebuilt. Pics: Front wheel bearings, cleaned up and ready for re-packing: Hi-Los and new red springs installed, replacing rock-hard, 30-year old rubbers: The assembled swivel hubs (ignore the shock monnt hardware - it's since been replaced with proper hardened nuts and bolts and bronze bushings around the dampers for perfect fit: Wheels back on (still no engine, though)!! NEXT STEPS: His a snag with the engine - the valves are re-done and lapped in,. but before I put the head back on I tested the cylinders and they failed to hold oil for 24 hours. Ugh. The engine's going to Bob Forsbloom here in Columbus today in the hopes that all that's needed are oversized rings and (maybe) new camshaft bearings. I did *NOT* budget in a few extra grand for a full engine re-bore and rebuild, and it was running great when I took everything apart so cross your fingers for me. If it needs more work than I'm willing to pay, I'll probably just re-assemble and drive till it explodes, and use the intervening time to save up for a new engine (the full replacement price isn't all that much more than the worse-case full sleeve re-build after all). Wish me luck!!
Was starting to wonder what was going on with this. Thought the car might have taken over.. Thanks for the updates.
Between the 100-degree temps and power outages, needless to say, this was low-down on my priority list. Doesn't help that every step incurs delays - parts, problems with fitting, etc. Just the usual fun-and-games. I'm considering doing an "all hands on deck" exercise when I'm ready to re-fit the power plant, as doing things 100% by the Haynes book is... well... SLOW.
UPDATE... No update. Engine is still at the engine doc, being looked at. Waiting on news re: if new rings will fix the leakage, and/or if the bearings look shot. Keep sending happy-happy thoughts. The good news is that no matter what happens, I'll get the engine back with new seals all-around and a new clutch (I asked Bob to just put the new clutch plate kit in since he was going to have everything taken apart anyway), so the actual clean-up and re-installation shouldn't take too much longer once I get it back. Hopefully I'll be able to drive it at least a little bit this year...
Ooops... forgot I had this thread here. So sorry... In the end, the engine needed to be completely re-bored and rebuilt with larger pistons - I had no compression in the #3 cylinder (filled the cylinders with oil and one was empty within 2-3 hours... ugh). Took several months to complete the work, then, just before I was due to pick it up the garage caught fire and the engine was MELTED along with several irreplaceable cars including a Bug Eye Sprite and several racing engines. :eek6: Insurance covered part of the replacement cost for a new engine, which was ordered from Seven. Cost... well... let's just say quality don't come cheap and leave it at that. In the end , I decided on a slightly-overbored 1275 engine with a split-pin diff, but basically all the rest was late-model carbureted stock. I'm told by Seven that the new powerplant should make something like 75 HP all told, lots better than my stock 50-ish HP (((crossing fingers))). Here's the box it arrived in, just before the July 4th holiday: Unpacked (oooooooohhhhhhh.... aaaaaahhhhhhhhh.....) :drool: New carbs supplied by the garage - a cool-looking dual setup I'm told came off a Cooper S: Engine ready to be installed (thanks a million to Paul and Jason for getting it ready and lending me your extensive knowledge and sweat!!!): Checking to see if the drive shafts will clear (they did): Shiny new engine installed in Fiona's bay - check out that massive engine steady on the thermostat housing!: Unfortunately some critical components, including the clutch connecting rod and clevis pin, as well as some of the engine steady stuff, was left on the original motor and is now slag someplace. I also need to figure out a way to adapt the intake manifold so that the late-series vacuum-assist braking system will work with my new setup - tapping a banjo bolt will be required. Wish me luck. More photos will be coming just as soon as I get the car into my garage - it's in Dayton ATM where the engine was dropped into the car.
ARGH!!! The carb manifold provided as a replacement for my melted assembly is for an Austin Healy, and fouls the firewall! Need a new, proper manifold, thinner spacers, and possibly a new heat shield. Glad I discovered this before I tried shoe-horning the assembly into the car (which I hear is possible) only to break the carb jets off when I start driving... More delays... :incazzato: