Took me almost an hour to get the gas tank back in... ^%$#@! awkward, tight spaces. One. Piece. At. A. Time. I. Will. Win.
Saturday update: Figured out most of the orphaned wiring - thank God I can read a wiring diagram. Have to make a manual switch-to-relay to drive my auxiliary cooling fan, as my old radiator had a temp switch that my replacement radiator does not. Luckily, I understand electrics. Mostly. Discovered the old crankcase breather was left on the old engine and needs to be replaced. Does anyone have an opinion on K&N-style filters like this one? I've read that without using a vacuum line to the carb (which it looks like my new setup may not accomodate), you can either get oil inside the bay, or end up with a slipping clutch eventually (or both). Still finding pieces/parts that I left attached to the old engine that needs replaced - H2O temp sender unit for the water temp gauge... the bolts and bracket for the coil... pieces of the main engine steady dogbone mounting plate... etc. I'm never "thinking ahead" ever again - it's too ^%$#@! expensive. QUESTION: There's a big, round canister in the LH wing, just above the radiator expansion tank... is that a charcoal canister filter? There are several black plastic (looks like) vacuum lines running into it that I think used to be connected at the other end to the carb manifold, but my new units lack the pickups for such. I assume I can omit, yes? Onwards...
You're on the right track.....however, your fuel tank is connected to that canister too......the way it worked is the canister traps excess fuel fumes and the engine burns them as it runs, purging the canister.... so your fuel tank is not vented to the atmosphere, it vents to the charcoal canister instead. Yes, you will need to ventilate the crankcase - ask me how I know! If you look in my thread on rebuilding my engine you can see how I fixed mine...however if you have an A+ block you can buy the front cover with the canister in it, then all you need to do is plumb into a good vacuum source. On a friend's 93 it's tee'd right into the vacuum line for the brake booster. My thread....
Hmmmm... I'll keep that in mind re: the charcoal cannister. If nothing else, I may just delete the vacuum hoses in the engine bay, then, and leave everything else alone (so the gas can properly vent as you indicated). Re: the breather - my carb setup is now a dual-carb system and will run off THIS MANIFOLD. The single tapped port on the top of the manifold will accommodate the line for my vacuum-assisted brake cylinder. I was planning on replacing the old, cheap-looking plastic hose for that system with something nicer. Will I have sufficient pressure to drive the brake assist if I plumb a secondary line off that hose and hook it to the breather can I'm purchasing on Monday? My original single-carb setup had an additional vacuum line pick-up independent of the large brake-assist line which is where things like this were hooked up, as I recall. EDIT: To clarify, after installing my new carbs, the only vacuum line I'll be running is the assembly #9 in this parts diagram. I'd like to remove this cheap-looking hose, which is made of black hardline plastic, and replace it with something nicer - braided line, for example, clamped to the existing banjo bolt and the fitting on the servo. I'm wondering what will happen if I install a "T" junction on that line and run the splice to the breather, specifically if it will lower the pressure to the point where the servo functionality will be impaired. Thanks!
The cheap plastic line won't collapse, braided hose may if it's not specifically made for vacuum.....just get the right stuff, that's all. As for the vacuum, like I said, my friend's 93 has it plumbed like that - the breather hose hooked directly into the vacuum line for the booster - it seems to work fine on his car....but I don't know if it has a restrictor in the line somewhere or something.
There's a one-way check valve on the servo vacuum line which helps, but others have been telling me that since there's positive pressure coming out of the breather, it interferes with the amount of vacuum force on that hose, and that the breather should only be hooked to a separate vacuum line. At this point, I,m planning on checking the manifold when I get it to see if there's a place where I can tap out a secondary line into the intake manifold. If not, I'll just use one of THESE on the end of the breather I think...
Just FYI, your name brand auto parts stores have those for like $12-14, I got mine at O'Reily's..... Thinking about it for a minute, there's only so much vacuum, it doesn't matter if you take it from the servo line or another place off the manifold, it all comes from the same place. I think a T off the servo line will work just fine......
WEEKEND UPDATE: It's almost finished!!! Brakes: all hooked up but not yet filled/bled. Cooling: Still need a section of radiator hose to hook up the cabin heater, but cooling system is otherwise complete. Electrical: Wiring is almost all done as well - just a single odd connection to be worked out (a plastic lozenge attached to the coil positive with a large spade connector on the end). Doesn't show on my wiring diagram so I'm hesitant to omit it, but will keep checking. Exhaust: Header attached to engine but center and tail pipes need installed. I also need to figure out where the %$#@! the brace near the bend in the header pipe clips to the engine (someplace near the gearbox, but I can't tell where, exactly). Carbs: Installed but I'm having a challenge hooking up the throttle cable. QUESTION: The carb setup I'm using looks almost identical to this one described HERE. Can someone who has used this setup tell me how the cable is connected to the multi-nut assembly shown in "Fig. D.6" in the linked document? On my carbs, the spindle on the throttle manifold assembly is held in place on one side by a cotter pin; on the other side are multiple hex nuts and a single washer, which looks like where the cable is supposed to attach. Problem is, I'm not seeing any place in the assembly for a hammer or other hardware fixture, and the throttle cable itself is simply a bare cable. Is the cable supposed to be trapped/captured between the nuts and/or between the washer? That seems... tenuous. On carbureted motorcycles I have, the throttle cable is held to the throttle spindle/arm via a hammer inserted into a slot or cut-out. The last photo in the linked page above shows the throttle cable disappearing behind what looks like the washer in the middle of the "nut stack" but does not indicate what's holding it there... friction? Unicorn farts and rainbows? (((shrug))) Hopefully I'll be ready to install the battery, get oil pressure up, get all other fluids into the engine and brakes, and fire her up next weekend - anyone in Columbus want to join the revelry (celebratory or conciliatory) that will ensue?
If you look carefully, there is a hole in the shaft between the nuts, the cable goes thru the hole, and the nuts tighten together to clamp it between them.
That's it? Just basic friction holds it in place? Should I at least crimp a bend in the cable so it can come back up and trap itself between the nuts or something? Seems pretty tenupus for such an essential component...
No, don't crimp the cable, just slide it thru the hole and tighten the nuts against it, it will hold perfectly......just to make sure I'm clear, the cable is between the nuts, tighten them together to trap and clamp the cable end
Okee dokee - will give it a try just as soon as my new throttle cable arrives... the one from my old car was for a late-model HIF carb doesn't fit the new SU setup whatsoever. Hopefully that's the LAST &^%$#@! part I need to order!
It won't be, might as well face it! But hopefully you're in the home stretch. After rebuilding mine from stem to stern, I just had to order a new clutch...it's always sumthin.....:crazy:
WEEKEND UPDATE: Well, I did *not* try starting her - I discovered that my clutch slave cylinder looks odd. Instead of there being a piston, spring, circlip, and other parts inside the cylinder housing, the only thing there is a meletallic cup insert (which is shown in the serice manual, but as only a single component of a more complex assembly). Rather than put fluids in that I may very well have to remove (or worse, tjat would have leaked out allover my freshly-painted engine) I opted to work on things like the exhaust and the cabin detailing. Good news it that the Maniflow exhaust I purchased like 3 years ago fitted up like a glove without the usual trimming, grinding, and drilling that I usually have to go through to get aftermarket parts to fit up... SO nice to work with quality stuff. Also, the new throttle cable fitted right up as well and trapped in the spindle just as people here said it would. I still have to clean things up and finish up some of the secondary wiring to things like the driving lights, but as you can see, things are looking pretty good (if you look close at the left-lower side of the pic you can see that the clutch slave is out of the car ATM): QUESTION: I have a component I can't identify: on the positive terminal of the coil, I have a black, plastic widget - one side it's clipped to the coil with an adapter that allows me to also connect both wires shown in my wiring diagram, and on the other end of the widget is a wide spade connector, like it was hooked to a bolt or something (which makes no sense seeing as how this is connected to the positive coil lead). My Haynes wiring diagram does show a "ballast resistor" in-line between the coil and the ignition switch, but that component is mounted to the engine bay firewall. I can't locate the widget in the Haynes book - does anyone have anything like this connected to their coil, and can you tell me what it's for and where it's connected? Cross your fingers for next weekend!
Is it a round silver cylindrical device with one wire coming out of it? If so it's a noise suppression device used to quell ignition noise in the radio. If not post a pic of it so we can better identify it. I'm not sure what you were saying about your slave cylinder - does it not have the rubber cup in it, only the metal one? If so, you were right not to put fluid to it, but you can start the engine without it, you just can't shift gears.
Re: clutch - Called Seven and they say that it should, at minimum, have a return spring behind the cup, if not an entire piston. Just to be safe I ordered a new slave - what's another $65 at this point, right? (((insert desperate, maniacal laughter)))... Re: coil extra piece - it's a flat, rectangular black plastic lozenge, not silver. The wire is very short - only a few inches tops, severely limiting the places where the spade terminal could possibly connect. It's not, as far as I can tell, anyway, listed on my wiring diagram - I see both wires I expect coming off the positive coil terminal, but not this third, extra element... I can shoot a pic when I get home if it's still a mystery.
Pic might help.... New slave cylinder will help you get it right, so worth it..... Don't forget to shoot that vid when you start it the first time! Mine didn't even smoke badly....