Hello and a question.

Really, the second generation MINIs with the N14 engine aren't bad at all. The key to a long lived N14 engine is to change the oil, every 5000 miles. Frequent oil changes will mitigate problems with the timing chain and tensioner, it is all about keeping the oil clean and topped up. A good CarFax will show how often the oil has been changed.
The carbon should be cleaned from the intake valves every 50,000 miles. not doing so will not cause engine failure, but performance will be significantly reduced. What happens is that the oil mist from the PCV system builds up on the backs of the intake valves and cooks there and slowly chokes off the intake ports because it is not washed off by the fuel injectors as on a port injected engines, like the series one MINIs have. These MINIs are direct injected, the fuel injectors push the fuel directly into the cylinders, bypassing the intake ports and valves. If you already have a shop sized air compressor, you can buy the tools needed to walnut shell blast the intake ports for a couple of hundred dollars. There are shops that will clean your intakes for as low as $300.

If you have an automatic transmission, the fluid should be changed every 50,000 miles. The Aisin-Warner TF60SN transmission used in Mini Coopers is a solid transmission that is also used in Audis and Volkswagens, but it needs to have clean transmission fluid, the factory claims that it has "lifetime" fluid, this is nonsense.

The series two MINIs are lighter and quicker than the series one MINIs, they also get better mileage, I average around 30 mpg, without trying to maximise my fuel consumption. If I really try to take it easy, I can get as much as 36 mpg, but that isn't as much fun. What is fun is keeping my foot in it and squirreling around back roads, that will bring the mileage down to 23 mpg.

 

When I ordered my car (2005 MINI Cooper S with manual transmission), the only options I ordered were sport seats, fog lights, and chrome mirror covers. When the car arrived, it came with the "Premium Package" and a few other things I did not order so the dealer did not charge me for them.

I got heated seats, Sport suspension +, sunroof, 17" S-lite (aka S-heavies) wheels and tires. And even though the rear fog light and switch panel were installed, the car was a Pre-November 2004 build so there was no wire between the light and the panel...go figure the politics involved in that.

So yes...heated seats were available for the facelifted R53 MINIs.

 

Yes, it was one of the first mods that I did. I left the pcv hose in place and blocked it off with a BSH Direct Dual Boost Tap. https://bshspeedshop.com/shop/shop/mini-cooper/bsh-mini-cooper-r56-direct-dual-boost-tap/

I used it as a signal source for my Boost/Vacuum gauge. I also installed a BSH oil catch can on the PCV line to the turbocharger intake. https://bshspeedshop.com/shop/shop/mini-cooper/bsh-mini-cooper-r56-competition-catch-can/

I am nearing 50,000 miles on my car, and I haven't felt any decrease in performance, due do carbon build up in the intake ports. I will take off my intake manifold this summer and check for carbon build up, but I suspect that there will be little or no deposits, as the PCV line I blocked off is the source for oil mist to the inlet ports and valves. I already have all the tools necessary to walnut blast the valves, if necessary.

 

Here is some R56/N14 Education for what you get when you buy cheap

This is a 19 part playlist. An R53 from 05/06 would be a about 12 part playlist if bought cheap in unknown condition

 

I have a Gen 1, '03 Cooper. While it cannot compare speed or powerwise to our 2 MCSes, it has its own agility and is a blast to drive. It is so nimble and I would think that that will be the same for you and your non-S Countryman.

High miles on MINIs tends to show how durable they are. I remember going to a British car Day a few years back and meeting a guy with an '02 MCS which had 350k miles on the clock! So, 130k shoukld not deter you from buying that car.

 

My '07 MCS had 135K miles on it when I traded it in. It was still going strong last time I saw it. I was pro-active in my preventative maintenance. Replaced T-stat, water pump, belt, and a few other parts before they failed or caused something else to fail. Did my first walnut blasting at 100K and boy did it need it. With an N14 the first thing I would do is the BSH boost tap and OCC. I used one of the taps to activate a Forge BOV. And yeah, it's easy to catch the mod fever. When I traded for my F56 I had every intention of keeping it stock and just driving it. That lasted about a week. I'm trying my best to stay at the "lightly modded" stage.

 

In addition to the turbo the 2nd gen S has a high pressure fuel pump which has a shaky history. Both died at 119K on my clubman. That was quite a frightening bill. Fortunately, MINI USA extended the warranty on both to 120k so I was able to get reimbursed.

 

I have a 2005 non-S with 160k miles on it. Owned since new and very well taken care of. I also drive this MINI as hard as I can! 8000+ miles at redline on the Dragon, 50-60 track days and always among the fastest lap times....not down the straights, but hold my own. Non-S’s can be driven quick.

Now, why are the used MINIs used? Were they taken care of? These are the hard questions I’ve have. I’ve seen many, many owners of used MINI S’s experience problems, very expensive problems(especially with the N14 engines $5000-$10,000!). Non-S’s tend to be owned by less aggressive drivers, less performance modded and generally a better fun car, while maybe not the fastest. Find someone local who has a MINI or better yet is a MINI shop to check out any car before buying.

I absolutely love my MINI R50 and the MINI community. Find a good car and enjoy the drive!

 

Correct, the HPFP is on the Cooper S only.

 

I guess it depends on how strong the "jump" was but it's more than likely normal. They are a little stiffer than your typical grocery getter. At least in the Cooper S it is. Also, the steering is even stiffer in our 2011 than it was in our 2009.