Yeah I am not sure you can read the proper codes with the special equipment that has the BMW extensions like Autologic, etc.
For a more DIY approach, search the web for testing procedures. My dead one passed the diagnostic tests though, so I don't know. Also, many have reported good results with just taking the sensor out of the hub and cleaning it.
Be clear that when those lights are on you do not have ABS.
yea i know, but i know how to drive a car that does have these luxeries. :lol: my rx7 has manaul steering and no abs, and my previous car a mk3 jetta had no abs. and i push both cars to there limits all the time.
but ill stop by the dealership ASAP to see whats up.
could have starting the car with only one axle in place and one speed sensor in trip this? but wouldnt, when i put both axles and speed sensors in wouldnt it go away? or is my car still pissed at me?
i didnt want to have to put the car all back together then find out something isnt working. so while the car was still in the air i started it up and went through the gears.
anyone think a bad alignment would cause these lights to go off? i just started to notice some excessive tire ware on the outside shoulder of my front driver side tire.
and would a bad battery do this? my ultragage at idle says like 13.xx volts and even when im flooring it dost hit 14 at all with engine off and using a multimeter at the jumper areas in the engine bay i get like high 12 to low 13's same at battery i thought when driving your supposed to have like 14.xx volts????
i went to a shop today and they tried to read my car and told me that every single system on my car had an issue and it would take hours to diagnose and treated me like a moron. will never go back to them and will never recommend anyone to them.
and the problem seems intermittent? the lights have gone out and systems work as normal then when i go do drive again another time they come back. they have only gone out like maybe 3 times sense i got my car back up and running last Thursday.
In all honesty, I think the battery is fine....the voltage is pretty good.
Remember, the car is 10+ years old, and to be getting ABOUT 14 volts (give or take a few tenth) is pretty healthy...
Remember, It takes 10 minutes or so of running for a HEALTHY battery and alternator to get back to full voltage. Grounds do corrode overtime, but if you start down that rabbit hole.....
The wheel speed sensors are usually the cause of the "tri-fecta", when just the dsc light pops up, other items like yaw sensors, steering angle sensors might be at fault....but the ONE item the ABS, and tpms share with the DSC is the wheel speed sensors. It is about a 2 minute job for a person with the right tool to tell you which one....
They tend to be kinda $$$..a few are down to 300 or so live bav-tech, but there might be a cheaper version that works with a laptop around. Most higher end PRO obd2 scanners should be able to get the info....
Maybe somebody here has the name of a few that have worked in the past, heck in this case a $200 scanner could save you the half hour/one hour fee some shops charge if somebody has the name of one that works....
The sensors are different for the front and rear.....so just getting one to swap around is not an option.....
For the specifics, I might check with a vendor...(not sure if helix is here, but they are a good company, I place them right up there with Waymotorworks, etc)
I know Helix down in Philly sells them.
do i really need there cable? i just downloaded thier program and used a obd2 to usb cable and i can get it to scan the car. but is not telling me much info and i cant access anything unless i am using the program wrong.
seems kinda crazy yuo wold pay 300 for a cable and free software seems to me it would be the other way around.
It looks like you got the info. Use the tool to clear all faults in all modules. Then under engine you will see a section for Commands that will allow you to reset the Adaptions one by one.
Make sure you have the cable connected before you start the BavTech tool. Choose R53 then EMS2K.
