Hi everyone, I’m new here, but have been lurking for a while. I have an issue I could really use some help with from some of you in the know. I have searched and searched and cannot find a post with the same type of issue...... here goes......”Duncan” my 2012 R60 S All4 has a bit of a problem. My wastegate was shot so I was in need of a new turbo. I was not one of the lucky ones as Dunk was manufactured, from what I can gather (many hours on phone with MINI USA & BMW NA) 1 month too late for the extended warranty coverage for it. Being what it is.... I bought a JM40 JCW type turbo from JMTC. I am currently working with the vendor to try to resolve this, but I wanted some outside advice as well. So, after the install the turbo (it is supposed to be a direct fit replacement with no other mods/tune needed, but advised to fully take advantage of the capability. Mine is mostly stock, I only upgraded because I had to replace it anyway, but I did also replace the charge pipe with the resonator in it with one from M7. I also installed a catless downpipe (which I dig, but may not keep on because of Wifey). Since the install I have had an issue, under moderate acceleration (1/4 throttle or so) in 2nd, 3rd, & 4th (auto trans. I haven’t pushed it further) it surges. I can hear the boost venting and the power drops off with the venting and comes back in between. For example: 3rd gear foot slightly in it, the rpm picks up, I hear the turbo spool and whistle, but also under the load it’s going Pshhh Pshhh Pshhh cyclically as it vents boost. Power surges and drops with each dump. Was told that I probably need to upgrade the DV to the Forge or GFB diverter. Does this sound like the culprit to anyone? At first it seemed pretty bad so I thought I would check and my old one still looked good after removing it, and made a air moving-suction-type sound when I depressed the piston. On the new one, when I checked it, it did not do this, only the faint clicking of the spring inside. So I switched them, this seemed to definitely improve the problem, but not cure it, it does it less but still persists. The codes shown were related to pre-turbo replacement (I think) except for a misfire (which is now cured with new plugs) but still the surge is there. Has anybody had an issue like this? What was the fix? Thank you in advance for your help!! Now my other questions may sound stupid to some, but bear with me, this is the first turbocharged vehicle I have ever owned. Since the turbo install with the catless DP, I can hear the turbo spool through the exhaust (sounds like an old VW, lol) I understand this is normal and makes me chuckle. But I can hear the turbo LOUDLY and I just don’t know if what I’m hearing is right. It whistles, almost like its constantly venting a bit while under lower boost levels, this seems like it is probably supposed to happen as not much is needed at less than 2500 RPM, as RPMS increase, so does the volume and pitch of the whistle. Am I just an idiot and hearing normal turbo noise with a catless DP? I know, I know, but now I’m just so totally paranoid about what’s wrong with the surging/venting under load issue, that I’m now starting to confuse myself with overwhelming info from the web. Can anybody chime in on this? I do have to short video clips showing both the surges and the whistle through a gear shift, only 7 seconds for the longer one, but I’m not sure if I can upload them here or not. If not I would e happy to send them to anybody that is interested in hearing what’s going on. Thanks Grump Edit: it won’t upload the videos, but I can send them to somebody. Just say where . Not sure if you can PM on this site.
Well the new turbo came with an upgraded one with a bit stiffer spring, but when I took it off, it just feels like it’s not working right compared to the old one, it did help just a bit when I switched them. I guess the next step would seem to be to maybe swap the springs so that the stiffer one is in the old DV? And see if it makes any difference. Arric from JMTC just emailed me back and suggested that it could be something as simple as the set up, they have a video for how to adjust the wastegate to where it should be, I will watch it and then go check mine out. But that will probably have to wait until after I run the Grumpy Wifey to a Dr appointment in the AM. Thank you! Please don’t hesitate to add any additional thoughts or suggestions.
Well, I watched the video. It has some really good info on how it works. After viewing, it does sound like my problem may very well be that I’m just making too much boost right now, which was what one of the codes indicated earlier when I had a local Euro shop check them for me, that and a miss. According to Arric on the video one of the problems you may have with too much boost is a miss over 3000RPM.....hmmmm, so I had a miss at higher RPM, an high boost code, and crazy boost venting...! Well, tomorrow afternoon I will go pull the heat shield off and take a look at where it is and give it a little adjustment and see what happens. I don’t think I’ll hurt anything by turning the boost down a bit! Just not up more, lol. Threw another code tonight, but I have no clue what it is. My cheapo scan tool won’t read the BMW specific codes. But I do have one on the way that is supposed to do everything I’ll need, including registering a new battery. That alone should pay for itself (almost). Heh. I ordered a Schwaben scan tool from ECS Tuning, does anybody have experience with one? It is supposed to be here on Wednesday.
Welcome...I am not a mechanic...I'm just here for moral support. GOOD LUCK and I hope you find the problem quickly.
That’s where I’m leaning now as well, I spoke with Arric at JM Turbo Coopers, who I got the turbo from. The upgraded turbos are probably set up more for someone with a tune, which I don’t have. I think the issue is simply too much boost! I makes sense and fits all of my symptoms. JMTC has a video on how to adjust the wastegate on their turbo and a bunch of good info. All I need to do (I hope) is adjust the wastegate to turn down the amount of boost being produced. I’ll know in a few hours when I can get to messing around with it.
Good! I read a lot about it, and several folks at NAM have them. Looks like with the fact that it can also register a battery, I think it will pay for itself real fast! Thanks for the personal input.
That’s fantastic, thanks. I can not wait for it to arrive.....at least tomorrow isn’t far away, lol. I read that it can even do some basic coding for some functions....but I’d be too nervous to mess with that!
Well I am happy to say that after talking with Arric at JMTC he was able to figure out exactly what was wrong with the boost issue. Aside from simply making too much boost, there was an issue with one of the coolant lines causing the wastegate vacuum actuator arm to bind and the wastegate was not operating properly. The guy is smart, he did that over the phone while I was driving! (Bluetooth of course). Bottom line: I am very Impressed and a very satisfied customer of JMTurboCoopers! My other issue unfortunately is still here, my dandy new Schwaben tool cleared everything except the airbag/restraint system fault. Which tell me that the fault must still be active. I’m getting a 93C8 code that says it’s the drivers side forward control. I’ve been trying to figure out where that is and if I maybe bumped or unhooked it accidentally or something. Or if it had to do with unhooking the battery when I was working on it. But I can not find that info anywhere! I don’t think it’s the one under the seat (but could definitely be wrong) the closest I’ve been able find is for an R57 that says that US models have an accelerometer behind each headlight. Now I did remove the lights when I fixed it, that’s a possibility that I will look at in the morning. But if anybody has any suggestions or advice, please, I’m all ears!
On the plus side.... I HAVE BOOST!!! I think the turbo has been toast since I bought the car. A few months ago I threw my iPhone boost gauge on it and under extreme acceleration I maxed out at 6psi !! What a difference now!, I’ve got it adjusted down to where I’m topping out at about 17psi now, which is way better than 6, or the 22+ at 3200 RPM I was getting yesterday! It’s a totally different animal now!
Update: Well after doing some research I found out that the US versions of MINI’s have an accelerometer on the frame rails under the headlights. Since the lights came out when I put the car into the service position, I thought what can it hurt to work backwards and see if I screwed something up. Well..... I DID, lol. Just went out and pulled the headlight on the drivers side and started poking around in there. Guess what I found almost immediately? A loose plug hanging there! Located the sensor, plugged it in and buttoned the car back up.... started it and ....... NO LIGHT!!!! I can’t believe it was such a simple fix for my own dumb problem that I apparently created for myself, lol. Thanks Everyone!!!! Mike is not Grumpy now, lol.