Hit a milestone and still making changes.

Discussion in 'Car Builds, Projects, Idea's Experiments' started by BlwnAway, Aug 26, 2012.

  1. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    #61 BlwnAway, Apr 23, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
    First step on the road to recovery, save money, well sometimes you have to spend it to save it.
    With the Mini down for awhile the only thing I had to drive was my beater conversion van, just won't cut it, 1990, 177,000 miles & 10mpg, with a 75 mile per day commute it worked out to be about $500 a month in gas alone, and thats if it held up. (great for when you needed to use it, not so great to have to actually depend on it)

    So, new DD:

    IMAG0547.jpg

    Gas and payment work out to $100 less a month than gas alone in the van, plus nothing to worry about or have money to fix.
    So far, it's OK, but it's wierd, I'm so used to getting a "charge" out of driving and with this it's just back to "transportation", don't get me wrong, it's fun & quirky enough, but it's nowhere near the same.

    Teardown on the Mini should start in June.
     
  2. rum4

    rum4 Club Coordinator
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  3. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    Well, after having to live down the shame of last year's premature announcement, I've been really apprehensive about posting my progress, but some pre-MOTD news has all but solidified the final piece of the puzzle for mid to late June (my clutch). Most everything else is done, bought and ready, the only thing I lack is my clutch and W/M kit.
    Here's where I stand now:
    Motor is done, transmission is cleaned up and ready for mating, all associated parts, gaskets and misc. items are bought and ready for install....(including, new idler pulley, clutch slave cylinder, updated Sprintex tensioner and vented filler bolt, New timing chain, Thumper extended chain tensioner bolt, Amsoil JCW Air Filter, seals and gaskets and other cosmetic goodies) Here's some of the details for those interested.

    Motor came out a couple of months ago, besides all the piston squirters being snapped off, the bottom end was in phenomena condition, I'll be honest, had I not wanted to rebuild the motor anyway and looked closer at the head (I didn't even bother because I wanted to rebuild and just assumed the age of the motor was to blame for the loss in compression), I probably could have repaired the head, replaced the squirters and put it back together as is. I honestly feel like I probably could have gotten to at least 300k+ on that bottom end, it was that good.... And maybe even on the same clutch since this is what it liked like when it came out.

    Original, OEM w/ 212k miles.
    20160306_160847.jpg

    20160306_160727.jpg

    But no sense in crying about it now...lol, I'm really happy with what I've got.

    Motor Specs:
    Block Bored for a 77.5mm Piston
    CP Pistons (77.5mm - 8.3:1)
    Crower I-Beam Rods w/ ARP Bolts
    King Rod & Main bearings
    Balanced
    Crank Polished
    Mellings H/P Oil Pump
    Block Decked .004
    TPR Adjusted Cam Gear
    TPR2rT Cylinder Head
    Sprintex S/C w/ 60mm pulley

    Here's the motor as it is now sitting in a cradle I made, I've since put it inside to fight the humidity while I wait for my clutch.

    20160501_181650-1.jpg

    20160501_181700-1_1.jpg

    A little Head Pron for you:
    Thanks Thumper!



    Exhaust ports are matched to my header.

    20160424_183657.jpg 20160424_183556.jpg

    Intake ports are opened up and intake is matched.

    20160424_183901.jpg

    Transmission was cleaned up and painted, with new seals all the way around.



    20160501_200407-1.jpg 20160501_200419-1.jpg

    Clutch will be the OS Giken Blue and W/M will be the Aquamist HFS-3.

    Once I get the clutch, everything will go back together and we'll do the appropriate tuning, then I'll add the W/M and start playing with the bottle

    But in the meantime there will be some other things I want to try and get done like a rear seat delete and moving my bottle into the cabin of the car, so should be some more new postings soon.

    Thanks Again for looking....
     
  4. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    So you are going from a RMW BVH to Thumper head and you are still trying to run the Srintex?

    So how long are do you think it's going to run this time?

    Can we start and over under pool? :lol:
     
  5. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    #65 BlwnAway, May 20, 2016
    Last edited: May 20, 2016
    Yup, be my guest.
    Last time the car ran for 35,000 miles after the Sprintex install that wasn't done until 176,000 miles, and as I said the only thing that was really wrong with it ended up being the head (which btw had 125k at failure) with no W/M , and the issue with the oil squirters was nothing but too much RPM on a stock bottom end, as I said everything else ended up being very good, so I'm not worried in the least esp. with the current extras that were put into the motor.

    This was my end game anyway, short of a full on turbo conversion (which the motor is certainly capable of), and nothing has changed, I'm doing the same as before, trying out unconventional options and running with them.
    To me, it's just not that interesting to do the same old things as everyone else.
     
  6. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    #66 BlwnAway, May 20, 2016
    Last edited: May 20, 2016
    But also don't get me wrong, I'm not blaming the failure on the head at all, it had 110,000 miles on it prior to changing to the 60mm pulley on the Sprintex, things only last so long, esp. when your trying to push some limits, just so happens that the head was the first thing to suffer, but that head gave me plenty of good performance, and my intention all along was to swap it out when rebuild time came around.
     
  7. sethat46

    sethat46 Well-Known Member

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    End game to go from RMW to Thumper? That's like saying I lived this long now give me cancer and let's see if I survive. What kind of backward pageantry is that!?

    No offense it's your car but I'm pretty..................... Blown away????


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  8. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Well it will be interesting to see the results. If you put it on a dyno post the numbers, I am just curios.
     
  9. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    I'm going to be more interested in oil/water temps after 30 minutes of running hard than what it dyno's...
     
  10. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    I can't imagine it would be that much different than before, supercharger setup will be exactly the same, the only real difference from my earlier setup would be the slightly larger bore with the forged Pistons, but with additional oil flow to aid with anything there, and the better flowing head, I'll just have to wait and see if it will require anything special as far as oil cooling or thermostat changes, but the stock cooler and OEM temp thermostat worked just fine before, esp with the electric W/P.
     
  11. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    I don't see where you think it's backwards, same size valves, just now the Inconel's, same spring and retainer specs, but larger intake and exhaust ports, with the matching intake. Just doesn't seem backwards to me.
    We'll just have to see.
     
  12. cct1

    cct1 Well-Known Member
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    Simple math:

    Corollary 1: Hand ported by the seat of the pants, not flow tested, versus cnc'd, and flow tested=backwards.

    Corollary 2: RMW head: often copied, never replicated. TPR, not so much. Backwards.
     
  13. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    #73 BlwnAway, May 23, 2016
    Last edited: May 23, 2016
    But it's also fair to say that there's no reason it can't be improved on.
    There's nothing wrong with Hubie's design/specs, it works well, it always has, hell it's been the standard for years, but even he experimented and changed things later on, I just wanted to see what something slightly different will do, and I guess I will, as anyone who was around earlier can attest, I've never been afraid to try different solutions.
    I guess I'll know in a month or so.
     
  14. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    Clutch is due next weekend, so reassembly can finally start.
    But in the meantime got one more project done:
    Rear Seat Delete and new rear Floor Pans.
    Started with a 24"x48" piece of cold rolled 18ga steel, normally I'd use aluminum or something thinner to cut weight, but I had decided to move the Bottle and W/M tank inside the cabin so the pans had to have some strength to them. Made some cardboard templates and got out the air shears, a few cuts, some grinding, a bunch of measuring and a little paint later and this is what I ended up with:
    Drivers Side.

    20160725_183058.jpg

    Pass Side, w/ rivet nuts for Bottle brackets.

    20160731_204222.jpg

    Then just a little unbacked automotive carpet and some edge trim.

    20160725_213204-1.jpg

    Added a little plastic fiber foam for support.

    20160731_210630.jpg

    And installed.



    20160731_234604.jpg 20160725_222004-2.jpg

    Harnesses fit around the bottle perfectly.

    20160731_235400.jpg
     

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  15. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    I think those drive axles need to be install also. :lol:
     
  16. RallyMini370

    RallyMini370 Well-Known Member

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    hahaha I saw those Dave and thought the same .
     
  17. JMC40

    JMC40 Well-Known Member

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    Who needs drive axles when you can run on foot power!! :)
     
  18. BlwnAway

    BlwnAway Well-Known Member

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    Those are for the RWD IRS conversion....
    :D

    I'll turn it in to a AWD Twini...
     
  19. Camaro

    Camaro New Member

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    You seriously think the ports done by Thumper are good? The exhaust port picture you have is horrible seriously, the floor has bias in it which it shouldn't, nice gouge in the roof, the long walls are not straight. I would ask for a different head seriously and the paint that he probably used for scrib the gasket port match still on the head casting thats poor craftsmanship, and the threads in the bolt holes are dirty wow however much you paid for that head you should ask for it back because that is just downright horrible.
     
  20. TheModFather

    TheModFather Well-Known Member

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    Sorry to say it Mark, but this does look like a shade tree hack job... Nothing is cut even, or remotely smooth, there's material left behind to say it wasn't even cleaned before assembly, and in my opinion a kid with a Dremmel could've done the same job.

    I mean really, take a real close look at your own pictures.

    [​IMG]

    Shouldn't that be cut to match the manifold? And shouldn't it be remotely symmetrical from left to right?

    [​IMG]

    Just look at all those deep gouges that were smoothed out to try and hide them... Is that really making smooth airflow through the port, or is Thumper just trying to sell the "Bigger must be Better" philosophy again?


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