Hit a milestone and still making changes.

Don't know what to tell you, both intake and exhaust are exact matches in size to the manifold and header, and as far as the head itself, it is what it is, I think some of what your seeing is the pictures themselves.
But regardless of if it is or not, it's not coming off and if there are issues they will show themselves during tuning.
Motor and tranny will be back between the frame rails this coming weekend, evening else just depends on time and any unforseen setbacks, I'm certainly not getting in a rush now, and I still only have weekends to do any work.

 

Well, the last 2 months have just been tedious and slow, between the heat and humidity, and little issues just taking a while to sort, last weekend was finally a good one...

Motor fired right off, oil pressure came right up, wouldn't idle or throttle due to a stuck throttle body, a quick poke with a finger to unstick it and all is well. Fires up, idles and throttles prefect, only thing left to do is the rear brakes, front of the car is complete, reassembled and on the ground, just simply ran out of time, front brakes and wheels were a PITA from sitting for so long, had to clean out the lug threads to get the bolts to even seat against the wheel properly. The wheels have been on the rears this whole time so they shouldn't be as much of an issue.
Going to be the weekend before I can get first drive simply because of my work week.

 

Finally back on the road, rear brakes were a pain, but it looks like the new pads will work OK for now with the old rotors. The only reason I haven't changed everything is because of the planned BBK and complete brake overhaul in early spring.

Motor runs well, of course I'll still be a little easy on it for a while before we start tuning, but it fires right up and doesn't miss a lick under normal throttle, extremely smooth and very free feeling, just seems to want to accelerate with little or no effort.

Only hold back to not driving it everywhere to get the break-in miles done is tires and P/S pump.
Rear tires had been on ramps for over a year now and have some dry rot cracks in them, 4 new ones on the way, should be here by Wed.
And, while I was checking the cooling system for leaks before it was all back together, P/S pump ran on and wouldn't shut off without pulling the battery cable, it's toast, won't come on at all, luckily it's the original and is covered under the recall, appointment to have it changed next Mon. Just have to remember to bring my big neon pink marker with me so I can write "Do Not Update The ECU" in big letters on the work order....
No biggie, I can always re-download the tune if they screw up....

Should only take a couple of weeks after that for the break-in to be done and tuning to begin, HFS-3 should be here by then also.

 

New update, most things are going to plan, new tires are on, P/S pump was changed at Mini yesterday, and initial break-in oil has been changed. Oil and filter look excellent, so no red flags there.
Only thing so far is that boost is a little low at WOT so more back and forth miles this week to work and troubleshooting next weekend, car seems to run really smooth so I'm thinking must be something with a leak on the pressure side or maybe even belt slip (I doubt it's belt slip simply because it levels out and stays pretty smooth, but we are looking at the logs, just to be sure) A leak wouldn't really surprised me that much though, considering I've got 4 separate intake horn taps and a new intake plug and tap for one of my in car intake temp gauges. Soapy water here we come.... :lol:

Plus I'm having an ozone treatment done this week (A convertible just sitting outside for 3 years requires a heavy duty freshening up, just slapping a little deodorant on, isn't quite enough) and possibly some cosmetic changes if I have time, thinking about match painting the wheel arches and body surrounds, and just so happens, there's a silver peel coat that is a pretty good match to Pure Silver, so at least I can experiment first.

Once the boost situation is sorted, the first stage of tuning can begin, I'm looking at 3 separate tuning phases:
Fuel only first, then with the W/M, then with the bottle. I'm hoping for end of Nov. to have it all done, but we'll see.

 

Latest update unfortunately isn't much of one.
Some of my boost issues have been sorted, and actually helped with something else too.

Ends up that I was getting some belt slip, (I was pretty certain that it was one of the issues) so I swapped back to my old tensioner system and all is good, even boost in all gears. And as an added benefit, the swap also got rid of some higher RPM clatter that I was hearing, so two thumbs up there.

But it's still a little lower than I anticipated with all the changes from before. Currently I'm seeing a hair under 18 psi and my previous setup had me right at 20, so considering changes to the motor and intake system, and that I was actually seeing more than most people were before. I was hoping to see 19 or so.

So last week I ordered some new O-Rings and gaskets to completely redo all the junction points from the S/C to the Head. (I did re-use some of these parts after doing a good visual inspection) Unfortunately Sprintex sent me the wrong O-Ring for the S/C to I/C horn connection,(which, when I disassembled the two, showed some signs of a possible leak, and even thought the O-Ring appears perfectly fine, I'm thinking there might have been some shrinkage while sitting) so I'm at a stand still until the new one arrives tomorrow.
Everything should go back together this weekend and barring any stupid mistakes on my part or glaring new issues, tuning should commence, break-in is done.

 

Everything is back together, and going through everything didn't gain me anything but peace of mind, I'm glad it wasn't anything difficult to do, and if nothing else confirms that everything is together and working correctly.

I'm seeing 17.8 psi at the gauge (haven't checked a data log yet to see what the map sensor is seeing) and it's steady and consistent.

Already sent an e-mail and the first stage of tuning should commence soon, but even as it is, the motor is really strong and smooth, and I'm sure the tune isn't even close considering all the changes.

 

New update....
Well so much for confidence....
We got 2 tunes in and all signs pointed to another leak (vacuum) or bad MAP sensor.

Because of work and weather it took me almost 3 weeks to Finally get it sorted, but I found it and I couldn't be happier.

Ended up being the intercooler itself, it's got some leaks right where the rows meet the tank/ends, probably happened while it was packed away, and the last time I re-assembled everything it pinched those holes closed enough that it was barely noticeable. But after taking it back apart and a few WOT tuning pulls, it became very obvious.

Now the couldn't be happier part...
It's all back together and the boost is right at where I had originally hoped and thought, it should be, I'm peaking right at 19+ psi on my logs, and the car feels really strong.

Tuning has re-commenced, and with any luck, we'll get through it before it gets slippery around here, bought a propane heater and some tarps for the carport, it'll make the next few months work, mainly the W/M install, much easier.

Oh, and props to George my tuner with ByteTronik, he's been really patient and understanding with all these setbacks.

 

Pre-Holiday update to how things are progressing...

Car is running beautifully, pulls exceptionally hard under full boost (5700+ is giving me 19.5 psi at the MAP sensor according to my data logs.)
After a couple of tuning runs, I made a comment about how the power felt as if it was flattening out from 7000-7500 (7500 is the suggested max RPM for the 60mm pulley), but that I was totally expecting that with the stock Cam, so no big deal.(I wasn't complaining at all, just relaying information since this is a remote tune).

For those of you who don't remember or didn't know, I've been blessed with one of those ECU's that just doesn't like Cam changes of any kind. Previously we've spent months trying to get both an NS-2 and MegaMini Cam to work in my car without throwing misfire codes. Since at the time, the car was my DD, and the bottom of the motor was still stock, I finally just decided to stop trying, and stick with the stock Cam, and with the addition of the ACG, was actually really happy with the performance.

Well... that was then... This is now...

With everything else that I've done to this motor, not at least trying another Cam, just makes me feel like I've not given it my all.

Sooo, thanks to the ByteTronik team, they've agreed to put in the extra effort to let me try one more Cam.

After the holidays, on the way will be a 1320 spec'd CAT Cam, a new, properly degree'd ACG from Thmpr, and a set of 650cc injectors.

I've decided to just go with a second ACG so that I can have this current one stay with the stock Cam, and with my current configuration the 550 injectors that I have now, were going to be right at the top of their duty cycle anyway. (Right now they are running at 90% and the motor still wants more fuel)
So no more tuning for now, the car is running just fine and I'm driving it every chance I get. Weather permitting, I'll have everything installed and tuning will resume in about 3 weeks. At least if it doesn't work out, I'll feel better knowing I did everything I could, I just hated the feeling that I possibly hadn't.
Happy Holidays.

 

For the exact spec on them you'll have to ask Thmpr, the Head is one of his TPR2Rt's. And according to him, these are good to 8k.

 

Well, it's been about a year since my last update, so this will be a long one.
I was planning on having the new setup ready for MOTD this year but couldn't get done in time. So with that over and finally setting up a new photo sharing account, I figured it's time to do an update.

First some back story as to what and why:
So I had the car at MOTD last year and it was running pretty well considering it was right after the Cam change and we were just starting the tuning (unfortunately the weather was horrible and only a few people got to ride in it). The only real problem was an idle issue that had popped up, it was acting like a boost/vacuum leak, but I couldn't find anything wrong. And then a week later I also developed a bearing squeal and drop in boost. After a couple of weeks of trouble shooting ends up that all of the problems were internal with the Sprintex. After speaking with them I found out that this unit was one of the last original 1st gen units that was given to me free as a favor from the rep at that time, knowing that my original unit while leaking internally at the oil seal, was well out of warranty for millage and modifications.
So between that and the fact that the unit sat on a shelf in my basement for three years while I went through my motor rebuild, they were understandably reluctant to just "give" me a replacement gen II kit. (I was offered a discount though)
So I was left with 2 choices, spend X$ on the gen II replacement kit or (2x)X$ on a turbo conversion, which if anyone remembers, was the overall plan for the car anyway.
The Sprintex only ever was to be an interim, all be it upgrade, for my failed M45, until I was ready for the motor rebuild with the proper parts for a turbo conversion.
Well, then I find out that Chase is selling some of his parts from Buddy, to go with a more track orientated build, which changed my cost from (2x)X$ to (1.5x)X$ so no brainer, turbo it is.

So last Oct I picked up these parts from Chase:




And Feb got this:



Garret GTX2867r gen II.

And then the real fun began, many 35-45° weekends on the carport assembling and fabricating parts. (No laughing and be kind, all I have is a bench top band saw, drill press and grinder, along with the bottom dollar harbor freight flux core welder)

While I was waiting on the turbo I was able to start on the downpipe and T/B adaptor:







Here's the downpipe and hot side of the turbo after ceramic coating:



I'll be the first to tell you the welds on the downpipe are dreadful and I'll be lucky if they last 2 months, but... I've picked up 2 new welders (a mig and AC/DC tig) and that will give me two months to practice on my welding with my scrap stainless steel pipe.
I was going to just mock it up and send it off, but I actually enjoyed doing it and decided to give it a shot, first time welding or not.

Next I removed all the plastic cowling/firewall, sold my JCW CAI and cut the ECU portion from a regular CAI. Then worked up new heat shielding (DEI form-a-shield) for the firewall, brake lines and module.




Moved the MAP sensor, replaced the hard plastic brake booster line and installed a vacuum manifold to take the place of the factory intake tube. (Yes I went overboard on the vacuum lines, but I wanted something that would clamp seal and also match the theme of the other lines I'm adding to for the turbo)




Cooper alternator and new dipstick tab mount:



Fabbed new W/P mount to be able to use the electric W/P from the old Sprintex kit:



Continued......

 

Mocked up, then made a mount to relocate the P/S and Coolant reservoir. Plumbed and installed them along with the coolant and oil lines for the turbo:





Made a mount for the Nitrous and Fuel Pressure solenoid:




Fabbed up a new coil mount to relocate it for the wastegate actuator.




Installed the radiator and I/C, and finished the piping and hoses:




But... I screwed up, when I mocked up the radiator to have the necks welded on, I did it without the upper support bar in place, and now the top neck hits the W/P housing along with the fan touching the dipstick tube, when I tried to install the upper mount bar.
Found this out Tues before leaving for the Dragon, so that's where I am now.
I did however start the car, it fired up immediately and idled much better, with codes of course, but that's too be expected without any tuning changes at all.

So that's where I'm at, radiator is coming back out, neck will be cut off and mocked up properly and dipstick tube will be modified, so it'll just be a matter of waiting on my fab guy to weld on the new neck before I can get it reinstalled and finally done for first round of tuning.

Oh, and yes, I still plan on using the Nitrous, along with the new HFS-3 Aquamist system that I have sitting on a shelf right now. I'll go through all that as it progresses.

Sorry for the super long all-in-one post and thanks for reading

 

I actually wanted it a little cleaner, but with trying to make MOTD, had to cut a few corners. But I'm so close, and nothing leaks, so I'm going to leave it alone for now.

For example I hated using brass fittings and regular hose clamps for the P/S reservoir hose extension couplings, (even though they're covered by the charge pipe) but I didn't have all the correct fittings, they would have been 2 weeks out to order, and I thought I was going to be done the following weekend. Plus all of the gun metal grey is just painted, much of it will come apart and be powder coated over the next winter.
Fortunately there's not really much in the way back there except the charge pipe, so it's something I can easily work on, after the fact.
Going from factory to aftermarket on the hoses can be a real PITA, some are consistent sizes (3/8 Hose and 3/8 fitting) but some aren't (3/8 hose but formed special for a 1/2" fitting). You have to learn to measure everything and take nothing for granted.

 

Just a short update, got everything mocked up properly over the weekend and radiator should be back mid week, ready for install this coming weekend. That and the EGT gauge line will be run and connected to the new gauge and data logging software as well.
Plus new CAE "esq" short shifter is in the way from GP Garage in Italy.

Fingers Crossed, car will be in the road this coming weekend.

Once everything is checked over and tuning begins, the next big thing will be the Aquamist install, for the second round of tuning.

Honestly, besides the actual work time, the biggest hurdle is trying to figure out where to mount the nitrous modules and if I even have room for both of them. It's going to probably take some fancy brackets and more plumbing magic to get more than one to fit, but that's the final step and not a priority for a month or so yet.

Oh, Harbor Freight welder is gone, entry level "non-flux core" mig welder has replaced it, along with a small entry level plasma cutter. (Both are basically for body work on my next project, so didn't need much power) and new tig will be here in June (back ordered).

 

My first Sprintex actually "worked" well, but it did have the oil seal problem, this one was just one of the bad ones from back then. Honestly it was just a "gift" that I shouldn't have even gotten, so between that and me sitting on it for three years, I simply couldn't get that upset.

I almost considered a new, second gen unit, simply for ease of getting the car back on the road, the second gen units have been much better, but I just couldn't see spending what it would take, and not upgrading the power level to have much more than I already had, so between that and those being my original plan, just seemed the right way to go.