Entertainment Electronics 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: HK mid/tweeter size

I saw the link and am very familiar with car audio. I run a three way front stage in my competition vehicle and active processing on all 8 system channels. That being said, my system will be an active system so passive crossovers won't be needed for my install. The system would sound sooo much better with a dedicated mid in the top of the door and the tweets pushed up to the a pillars. Most standard high end tweeters are 28mm and have an overall OD that is closer to 2". If that is the case, then I have a pair of Scanspeak 2" mids that would work perfect for that location.

 

Right now I'm just trying to come up with some quick solutions to get things rolling. I have a big show coming up next month and would like to get the MINI half way decent sounding so I can compete with it.

 

Thanks Dave! Yeah the scene has changed a bit, but as you can see from the poster, most of the major players are still the same. Most of the industry has gotten away from the sound quality portion so anytime I can support it, I do.

 

Actually, it not a standard tweeter. It's a tweeter and a mid mounted coax style. Take a look at the pics. There is an outer surround a large magnet on the back and 2 separate inputs on the back. The capacitor on the back suggestions a crossover frequency of about 18000 hz and there is no way a 5.25" mid is playing that high. So there would have to be a small midrange behind it to cover the frequency up to that point.

This is a pic of the standard tweeter:

 

With the rain finally taking a break, I've been able to work on the audio a bit more. Yesterday I pulled the trim around the door latch and took some measurements.


The mid appears to be about 2 inches in diameter with a 1 inch tweeter mounted in front. It is angle in towards the listing area to project more sound at the listener rather than at the dash. Aura Sounds makes a 2 inch full range driver that looks to be the perfect replacement.


It has a titanium cone that both light weight and very rigid and the frequency response is pretty flat all the way down to 200hz. I'll more than likely only use them from ~800hz up to 5000hz and use the tweeters from the JL Audio C5 component set to top off the high end.
I've got a pair on order from Parts Express since they seem to have them on sale at the moment.

 

Other aspects of the audio system that I've been working on are the midbass in the lower doors. I ordered some of the adapter rings from Amazon but wasn't happy with how flimsy they are so I had a local shop make some for me on the router table. They basically took the ones I bought and made carbon copies, but I had them use a material I bought called UHMW. UHMW is a high density plastic like HDPE (think plastic cutting board) but is ten times denser and at least 20 times denser than standard MDF wood. The other bonus to using it over MDF is that it doesn't adsorbe moisture and swell/degrade like MDF.

 

The midbass baffles will be mounted using M6 cap head bolts with nylock nuts. I countersunk the heads to make sure they don't interfere with the mounting of the speakers.
The blue stuff on the bottom is foam of the peel and stick variety. It's used to help seal against the metal door but also to help decouple the assembly and decrease vibrations transmitted through the door from the speaker.
That's all I have right now. Hopefully I'll be able to start on the dynamat portion today, but my deadline to have this done by showtime on Saturday isn't going to happen so I'll be attending as a spectator this year instead of as a competitor.