1st Gen R50 Cooper HORNS: The Saga continues!

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by SNEEEZY - Erika, Sep 21, 2011.

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  1. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #21 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 1, 2011
    I know the female disconnects are crimped securely because I cannot pull the wire out, regardless of how hard I pull on the wire.
     
  2. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #22 Metalman, Oct 1, 2011
    OK.... Just as a quick test, attach a good known ground to the Hella bracket nut (black bracket strip / silver nut on the back of the horn), to the ground going to the engine. Then hit the horn button.....
     
  3. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #23 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 1, 2011
    BRB....
     
  4. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #24 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 1, 2011
    Well, I can't do the quick test because the damned nut won't loosen.
     
  5. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #25 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 1, 2011
    Do you have your one Hella horn connected to wiring? Does it work?
     
  6. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #26 Metalman, Oct 1, 2011
    It's in a box at my shop. I'll try it tomorrow.
     
  7. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #27 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 2, 2011
    Here's where the project currently stands:

    Both OEM connectors have been cut from wiring harness.

    Posi-taps have been used to bridge OEM wiring to salvaged wiring from another MINIs horn wiring.

    Used my new multimeter to test ground wires on both sides with good result. (Audible sound = good ground)

    Couldn't determine which multimeter setting to use to test the closed circuit (ie: black probe to ground wire & red probe to positive wire from OEM harness).

    I need to get a horn installed ASAP. It's been way too long to not have horns and I've gone back & re-read the other threads, but now I have a migraine and would like a simple set of step-by-step instructions to install either the Hellas or the Bad Boy using the OEM wiring.

    The Bad Boy would be installed in the space originally occupied by the passenger-side OEM horn and the nearest ground is less than 12" away.
     
  8. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #28 Metalman, Oct 2, 2011
    Erika, remove one set of horn wires from one of the horns. set your volt meter to 20 volts DC. Attach the two leads (common and positive) from the meter to the two wires you pulled off the horn. Make sure the ignition is turned on but the engine doesn't need to be running. Your meter should show either a positive or a negative 12.xx volts when you hit the horn button. Do this now and report.....
     
  9. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #29 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 2, 2011
    Just saw this reply...will see if I can talk the spousal unit into sitting behind the driver seat and honking the horn for me. :D
     
  10. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #30 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 2, 2011
    Ok...my son helped by honking the horn.

    11.48 via the passenger side

    None of the horns are attached...I simply put the probes into the Posi-lock connectors.
     
  11. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #31 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 2, 2011
    The 11.48 was consistent via three separate tests.

    I'm hoping it's a good result so that I can be guided to the next step. :D
     
  12. Metalman

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    #32 Metalman, Oct 2, 2011
    Disconnect the meter test lead that was connected to the brown horn wire (ground). Keep the other meter test lead connected. Touch the meter test lead to a good ground on the motor (maybe an engine bolt or the lifting loop on the engine). See if you get a higher number than 11.48 volts.
     
  13. SNEEEZY - Erika

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    #33 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 3, 2011
    12.74 with drop to 4.78 then a quick jump back up to 12.74
     
  14. Metalman

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    #34 Metalman, Oct 3, 2011
    Well, not sure why it dropped to 4.78 volts......
    The higher voltage of 12.74 vs. 11.48 might be a good indicator that you have a questionable ground.

    The next thing I would suggest is to make a jumper. Take maybe a 3 foot length of wire, attach a spade clip on one end and attach it to the horn in place of the OEM brown ground wire. Attach the opposite end of this new wire to a good ground on the engine. Leave the other connection OEM wire attached to the horn. Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. Try the horn button on the steering wheel.
     
  15. SNEEEZY - Erika

    SNEEEZY - Erika M/A Wrenchin' Babe!
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    #35 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 3, 2011
    I will do this at lunch. I put all the supplies, toolbox, etc. in the boot. :wink:
     
  16. SNEEEZY - Erika

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    #36 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 3, 2011
    Can the wiring for the ground be 12g even though the OEM is much smaller?

    If it cannot be 12g, what gauge should I use for best results?
     
  17. Metalman

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    #37 Metalman, Oct 3, 2011
    12 gauge is fine...
     
  18. SNEEEZY - Erika

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    #38 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 3, 2011
    The ground point that I will be using is the uppermost nut of the crush bar.

    Can I get by with less than 3' of ground wire as originally suggested?
     
  19. Metalman

    Metalman Well-Known Member
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    #39 Metalman, Oct 3, 2011
    Less is OK... I picked 3' only because I figured that was enough for you to reach a good ground point.
     
  20. SNEEEZY - Erika

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    #40 SNEEEZY - Erika, Oct 3, 2011
    (Crickets)

    The original location for ground that I was going to use will require a washer which I don't have with me.

    Ug!

    I checked other locations and got nothing, even after swapping the connectors to the horn itself.
     
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