Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: How NOT to do a brake job!

  1. Dwight

    Dwight Racing with the Gods
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    HF Brake Caliper Retraction Tools

    Just for grins I checked out HF's caliper retraction tools. Their $10 tool will NOT work on a caliper piston that must be rotated while retracting and the kit that will work costs $10 more then the Schwaben kit from Outmotoring.
     
  2. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

    Jun 12, 2009
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    Go with the Schwaben kit. HF used to sell a cheaper kit with just one caliper tool instead of two and a red box instead of blue, but I haven't seen that listed on their site for a while now.
     
  3. Dwight

    Dwight Racing with the Gods
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    The Schwaben kit was already on the way and due Fri. Then I can play with the brakes some more! :eek:ut:
     
  4. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    The redbox kit is available at the store (at least it was at mine today). Maybe they are clearing them out, but it was on sale for 19.99. And the bluebox kit was 29.99
     
  5. Mr. Jim

    Mr. Jim Mudshark
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    May 22, 2010
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    That's the one I purchased last year and am just using it this week doing brakes, rotors and SS lines also.
     
  6. moreorless

    moreorless New Member

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    Thanks for the link Scott.

    I'm not much of a fan of the C-clamp/pliers method, even tho that's what I have used. You've got to be real careful as Helix points when and if you do use that method.

    I'm searching for a local H/F now.

    ....Les
     
  7. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    On the subject of tools, a flare nut wrench is the correct tool for brake lines. I think you need a 14 mm for the MINI? And maybe an 11mm for the master cylinder, off the top of my head. They're not cheap, but if you're someone who's gotta do the job right, pick up a set.

    [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Westward-1EYF3-Flare-Wrench-Metric/dp/B001DUCNRY"]Amazon.com: Westward 1EYF3 Flare Nut Wrench Set, 6 Pt, Metric, 4 PC: Home Improvement@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21Cd0WAwPhL.@@AMEPARAM@@21Cd0WAwPhL[/ame]
     
  8. Mr. Jim

    Mr. Jim Mudshark
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  9. PGT

    PGT Wheel Whore

    May 4, 2009
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    I've got a set of H/B red case that I'll never use again. Used once or twice and put away in my toolbox. If anybody wants them, let me know....cover shipping and its yours.
     
  10. paulharmo

    paulharmo New Member

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    I have since bought the Harbor Freight tool (which works great), but the first time I did a brake job, I actually used a C-clamp that had a rotating bottom clamp, and a piece of wood. Clamp, rotate, unclamp, reset the wood, repeat until the caliper is down to the bottom. Time-consuming compared to the HF option: Yes. Cheap: Yes :D
     
  11. andyroo

    andyroo New Member
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    Sep 8, 2009
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    I'll take it. The c-clamp method worked last time but this will make life easier.

    PMing now.

    - drew
     
  12. kris

    kris New Member

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    I bought the same kit lol, it really does work like a charm and is only about $14. Side note this $14 dollar kit can do every domestic, and 90% of the imports, it's simple to use, and it dosnt scuff calipers.

    Here is a link for it, I couldn't find the single case, but odly enuff the make a double kit....weird
    18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit
     
  13. Dwight

    Dwight Racing with the Gods
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    The never ending brake job is finally done. Put the Red Stuff pads on the rear today. If I never do another brake job, it will be too soon! :eek:ut:
     
  14. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    I'm surprised you had such a difficult time with this, most folks find the MINI brakes some of the easiest in the industry to do. It does help to have the tools....

    Glad you got her finished, let us know how you like the Red Stuff pads, I know several local club members who run the Green Stuff pads and really like them.
     
  15. BThayer23

    BThayer23 Well-Known Member

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    The first time's the hardest. After that it's really easy.
     
  16. ScottinBend

    ScottinBend Space Cowboy
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    Did you at least torque the wheels before bedding in the brakes?

    Wondering why I ask.............need I say more?

    One of my first brake jobs I forgot to torque the wheels and proceeded to go out and do a couple of hard stops. Well after the first one I was getting this really weird severe shake in the steering wheel. Got the car back home and looked at the wheels and noticed they looked a bit off. Not only did I enlarge the stud holes in the wheels but I had actually bent the rotor bolts. Ended up having to take it to a shop to get the rotors off. Boy was Dad pissed...........:D
     
  17. Dwight

    Dwight Racing with the Gods
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    I torque everything to spec and when I'm doing something for the first time, I really take my time. Getting parts with incomplete instructions or none at all didn't help much either! The fronts are now bedding in nicely with the pads in full contact and the rotor cross hatching nearly gone. The rear pads will take awhile as they're not doing much work (20%) in stopping the car. Pedal feel keeps getting better all the time, although I'll give it some time before doing any really hard braking. Quite happy with the results so far, but doing it all again wouldn't be my first choice right now! LOL :D
     
  18. Dwight

    Dwight Racing with the Gods
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    HELP!!!

    My brake job travails continue. Fronts are now nicely bedded in. The new rear pads have ~150mi. on them and are bedding with no problem. Until now! Suddenly the worn brake pad warning came on complete with the "MINI-ON-THE-RACK" symbol. That goes out, but the red "BRAKE" and little yellow triangle warning don't. Everything checks out OK. New sensors were installed with pads, brake fluid level is dead on, eBrake engages/releases correctly and the brakes work/feel fine. What gives? :confused:
     
  19. k-huevo

    k-huevo Club Coordinator

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    The sensor connectors are not the easiest things to plug in, perhaps the connectors are not locked together. I have to lube the rubber with dielectric grease to get them to insert all the way in and latch.
     
  20. Dwight

    Dwight Racing with the Gods
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    All connections are solid and I've been putting dielectric grease on all electrical connection for decades. If it was a bad connection, wouldn't that light have come on right away, not +150mi. down the road? That's what's bugging me. :frown2: