1st Gen R53 Cooper S How To: Replace Clutch Slave Cylinder

Discussion in '1st Generation: 2002–06 R50, R53 & 2004–08 R52' started by Nathan, Dec 1, 2009.

  1. Nathan

    Nathan Founder

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  2. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    Thanks for the spelling help, Nathan... It has never been my strong suit!

    I couldn't find a how-to on this process on any of the major MINI sites, so I threw it together and snapped some pics during the process. The duct tape idea is my own, so I'll take any kudos or beatings on that one! :D The 2x4 idea came from someone on NAM... one of the regularly helpful wrenches over there, but I can't remember who.

    I am not a trained mechanic... I'm just handy with tools. If you have any thoughts or comments (especially on how to get a better bleed on the clutch), I'd love to hear 'em!

    Aaron
     
  3. alph78

    alph78 New Member

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    I found this while trying to find out some information on how to replace the slave cylinder. If it works correctly it could be a much easier and hassle free way of bleeding the system.
     
  4. N2MINI

    N2MINI MINI of the Month

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    Thanks for the write up. Always wondered how I was going to know if I needed it replaced and or worked on..Heard quite a few people talking about bleeding theirs over the years...
     
  5. Jason Montague

    Jason Montague New Member
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    :cornut: Thanks for the write up!:Thumbsup:

    Jason
     
  6. thesteve123

    thesteve123 New Member

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    Thanks to Agranger for the write up and pictures. I wanted to add an update based on my experience. When it comes to bleeding the slave, I had a ton of trouble. When you get ready to install a new one, go to AutoZone and get the GM steering wheel removal tool. The slave must be completely compressed before connected to the brake line, as agranger instructed. This tool is perfect for the job. It comes with bolts and washers. I went and bought 4" bolts to make it a little easier to compress the slave. The tool comes with a metal tool that fits awesome right on top of the little bump on the slave cylinder. Slowly tighten bolts through the mounting holes through the top of the steering wheel removal tool until you have it completely compressed.

    Once you know you've compressed it fully, attach the new slave to the brake line and put in the retaining clip. When the slave is attached to the brake line, slowly remove the GM steering wheel tool. When it is completely removed the cylinder will be fully extended.

    Open the bleeder screw now until gravity causes fluid to start flowing out. Next, get a friend to help you for the next part. One person squeeze the slave cylinder as much as you can by hand with the bleeder screw open. The other person should put their thumb tightly on top of the bleeder screw while the other person lets the slave extend again.

    While your thumb is on the screw, the slave will draw the fluid into the cylinder. Once it's fully extended, the person holding their thumb on the bleeder screw lets their thumb up. Repeat the squeezing of the cylinder and then recapping the bleeder screw with your thumb two or three more times. Make sure you don't remove your thumb while the cylinder is expanding. Close the bleeder screw at this point.

    If you do this correctly, you will be properly bled in just a couple of minutes. In my experience, I couldn't get any pressure built up in the slave, but after me and my dad did this three-five times, it was very difficult to squeeze the slave into it's mounting bracket.

    I went from a completely free clutch pedal to a tight pedal/clutch that just needed to be bled the old fashioned way. My dad got in the car and after I opened the bleeder screw slightly, he pushed on the clutch and held the pedal. I tightened the bleeder screw while he held it down. Once it was tightened, he let the pedal up. We did this about three times and then went for a test drive.

    It felt a little soft that first drive, but after about 24 hours, the clutch felt 100% normal. The whole process can be done in a half hour, if you can figure out how to get it bled. I hope you can understand this description and that when you combine this with agranger's great post you'll be motoring again in no time.
     
  7. agranger

    agranger MINI of the Month June 2009
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    #7 agranger, Feb 14, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2014
    Bleeding this sucker really is trial and error. I've tried every tip and technique, but it always seemed to wind up being down to luck and persistence. I would bleed the sucker 3 or 4 different ways then go back and repeat. The third or fourth time I'd try method #1, it would magically work and the clutch would work perfectly!

    The real tip, IMHO, is persistence. Whatever method works for you is great... just keep at it and eventually that last little bubble will blow out and you will scream in joy / frustration.
     

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