Wow Ron, thanks again for all of your service to M/A. Much appreciated!
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Did up Augie this last weekend. New pads front and back, new rotors front, steel break lines and flushed with new brake fluid
Took up most all of the weekend as my learning curve was very long!
Many thanks to Ron for his front brake pad DIY, Richard Lin for his write up on rear brakes on the sewing site, Way of Way Motor Works for some prelim phone support (and of course all the hardware and fluid) and our very own Nate who took a couple minutes away from the 12 hours of Sebring to answer some noob questions. -
Eric@Helix New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
Nice write-up. One note. If you just remove the caliper (7mm allen) as opposed to the caliper and bracket, you can easily compress the piston with a big channel lock plier--no need for the fancy compression tool and it will save you time. You do need the tool for the rears, and one note about using the tool on the rears: be sure to lube the rubber boot at the piston flange with a non-petroleum based lube* before spinning the piston. Otherwise you risk ripping the boot.
*We use Wurth SaBesto HHS2000: it's the best -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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A couple of other things... I *think* you can just remove the upper caliper bolt (which, is NOT an allen head on the 2nd gen brakes I've seen) and pivot the caliper forward and down enough to swap pads, without removing the whole caliper.
I've also had no problem pressing the piston back in with finger pressure while a pad is installed - press against the pad, and the piston retracts. But I have strong fingers... -
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Yep - those are the ones - whatever size they are - you use an open-end wrench to hold the inner side of those so the whole caliper slide pin doesn't come out, and just remove the stubby bolt that threads into the slide pin. Then the caliper will pivot out for easy pad swaps. Handy if you swap pads for different applications.
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Are you suggesting to remove those screws, then the rotor set screw to remove the rotor, and then you could get access to the rear pad as well?
Maybe I'm missing something here but it seems what you suggest would only get you to the outer pad.
Look at the 4th and 5th pic down on Ron's write up. On the 4th his finger is on the top bolt that attach the entire assembly, I *assume* you are talking about the bolts just to the left about 2" and up 1" from where ron's finger is -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Yep, that's the bolt I'm talking about. And you ARE missing something.
When you remove that bolt, the whole caliper (including both pads) will pivot forward away from the rotor. Then you can remove the pads by sliding them out of their clips inward (toward where the rotor normally is).
I'm NOT saying that you can replace rotors using the method - only that you can swap pads. -
Octaneguy New Member
heh heh no problem. I actually have both front and rear brake 1st gen DIY writeups here on MA as well on the sewing site. Glad you were able to do your brakes! It gets much faster the next time around.
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Glad you found it helpful -- Thanks
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Nice write up, Ron, thanks.
How did you modify the metal piece of the Harbor Freight brake caliper tool? Or to what kind of place did you take it?
BTW, did I meet you today at Gashead Motorworks? (I have a 2008 PW/B MCS with an 'Eject' sticker on the glove box button)
I recognize the red clubman in your How-to about replacing struts and springs. -
The brake caliper tool originally had round hole in the center -- I cut the bottom from under the circle to create a "U" shaped cut out in the tool. Now the tool can be place over the threaded rod and does not have to placed through the rod.
Hope to see you soon at a Houston MINI Motoring Society gathering.
HMMS - Houston MINI Motoring Society
Some fun stuff coming up:
April 3 meeting and Bluebonnet Drive April HMMS Meeting and Bluebonnet Drive - HMMS - Houston MINI Motoring Society
April 17 MINI mod day MINI Mod Day - HMMS - Houston MINI Motoring Society
April 21 MINI display-Transportation Day @Becker Early Childhood Center.
April 24 Adopt-A-Beach cleanup on Galveston Island
May 3 meeting and picnic after @ Brazos Bend State Park -
Yeah, that was my first visit to Gas Head Motorworks and they were great. And thanks for the list of HMMS events - nice to know.
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It's quick work with a 4 1/2" grinder & abrasive blade -- only takes a couple of minutes.
I imagine you could do it with a hack saw (just more work).
If you would like yours cut out let me know -- our paths with probably cross again soon. -
Think I'm trackin with you. Will give it a shot when I install the track pads -
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I'm sure it will be much quicker next time around -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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I can do a full four wheel brake job with fluid bleed now in less than two hours - closer to an hour if all the planets align. Four wheel pad swap in about half an hour (in the garage, with all the right tools). Definitely gets easier.
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Thanks for the metal cutting suggestions, Everybody.
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Blimey,
It looks like the rear brakes are also configured the same as the front so if you remove those 2 smaller head bolts, you can swap the pads. Is this the case? If so, it should make things very easy. Also, do you know what the torque specs are for these bolts after removal? Thank you in advance!
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