Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: How To: Replace strut springs

Good to know this stuff is out there, but this time I'm gonna leave it to the peeps at Detroit tuned, thanks to Chad for the good advice. See you guys before MTTS

 

Great job to all those involved in adding to the library.

It's nice to know that if you are thinking of doing the mod yourself, it's comforting to know someone has blazed the trail before you and that "expert" is a member of M/A, who would be readilly available to answer questions if you get stuck.


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My Take on Steve's Nylon Stud Removal Questions

What is that plug and why did MINI put it there? It is an index locator for original camber setting. I assume the slots are to allow adjustments for disparity in factory tolerances or damage from mishaps.

What are reasons why I might want to leave it in there (i.e., downside(s) to removing them)? I don’t see a reason to keep stock camber settings for anything other than the drag strip or strictly highway with no off & on ramps. Increasing negative camber allows more even tire wear and improves lateral load traction.

Will I cause myself problems if I pull that plug out but don't want to change the alignment (e.g., to make room for a strut brace)? The guide support nuts will maintain the original setting, and a strut brace will also keep things as they were.

If I pull the plug and then loosen the guide bolt nuts do I have to worry about the camber adjusting itself because it's loose or is there some resistance? If the vehicle has not been raised, the vehicle’s weight will maintain location. Just push back in place if it changes with weight off the wheels.

If I pull the plug and shift the strut over, how much does this adjust the camber? ~ .3 to .4 degrees negative.

Will pushing the assemblies all the way inboard ensure matching camber on both sides or do I need an alignment after? Both sides will move equal distances, but if camber is different to begin with, it won’t correct it. The amount of additional camber change afforded by stud removal only, will not adversely affect toe. However, I recommend all those interested in optimum handling performance, to have a professional alignment performed. In my opinion, one shouldn’t assume the original settings are correct for your goals, or that if handling doesn’t favor one side, all is good.

Front suspension geometries are a little different for the R56 than the R53. Lowering the R56 causes a linear increase in negative camber (plus toe change), augment with stud removal, and the amount of change will necessitate an alignment.

 

Thanks "Steve" and "K-huevo" for this information Just getting an alignment is far less $$$ than installation of these components!

 

On the front strut of an R56S, do you need to undo any ball joints? It looks like the pinch bolt for the strut, the sway bar link, and the top three bolts for the strut mount.

Thank You!

 

Getting a correct alignment requires some expertise.....for example, the car is supposed to be loaded with weights, some in the front and some in the trunk, before aligning the car.

You also may have to reset the steering angle sensor after it's done, otherwise the steering may try to self correct and cause the pump or electric steering to run excessively.

Take it to the dealer or to someone who has the skillset and machinery to do it right, that's all I'm saying.