Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: If only they made these for the MINI.

damn it, my mod list is growing every time I log on here. . .

 

That's with the airride raised up too :crazy:

The second gen ball joints seem to have a greater range of travel when compared to the first gens. You'll lay the oil pan on the ground before the ball joint starts binding...and even then it's the control arm hitting the subframe rather than the ball joint truly binding

 

Changing the wheel offset changes the scrub radius. If you draw a line through the top of the strut through the ball joint and extend that line to the ground that is the point that the steering pivots around (steering axis). If the offset of the wheel does not line up the center of the wheel with the steering axis you have scrub. The affect is the wheel turns through an ark, as opposed to pivoting around a point. Someone in this thread said they did not like the effect on handling from increasing the scrub radius. I agree. I think it affects the feedback through the steering wheel. It does not however affect grip in a negative way. Because the track is wider, grip is actually improved. Most people confuse grip with handling. Handling is a subjective measurement. What do you sense that conveys control? We use all our senses and one of the things we respond to are the forces coming through the steering wheel. Some people might like that feel others might not.
Changing this to correct the scrub radius is not really practical. You would need a completely different suspension. GM has a Buick / Opel with a strut suspension that moves the strut inboard and has a different steering axis. Maybe the next generation MINI will have a similar design.

 

Seems like most of the same benefits could be had with these

 

Those are a great alternative to the poly LCA bushings. Been loving mine for 3 yrs now.

MiniMadness has, or did have, a tubular LCA replacement with a solid bushing.

 

Save your money and get the Powerflex Control Arm bushings.

And if you need something harder, we now have the RACE control arm bushings that hard made from a harder urethane than the powerflex.

 

Join the club. I didn't even know these existed and now I want some.:cryin:

 

I know there are fans of the Alta PSRS that swear by them. I have them because I got them at a steep discount. I have tried everything, red loctite, welding, grease... They still rattle. A lot.

Get the Powerflex, that's what I would do even if I had to do it over again with the steep discount.

 

You aren't securing the LCA arms, all the set screws do is to hold the sleeve in place. There isn't any load being applied to the sleeves. The sleeve is just an interface between the hex end of the LCA and the bushing.

Been thru the harsh winters here with no problem or wear concerns. Not sure why there are rattling problems, but I would guess that simply tack welding the ends of the sleeve to the arm, like I have done, would be enough to eliminate the sound.

 

I had the exact same experience. Didnt get to the point of welding, b/c the sleeve was not the issue.

 

The original post

was for aluminium LCAs.... These should be a lot lighter! Wish they existed for the MINI.

Matt

 

Aluminum LCA's? How much would those things cost??? :crazy:

I believe the OP is in fact referring to the bushings.

 

The rattle comes from the sleeve rattling against the hex end of the control arm, not from the bushing itself.

 

Those are pretty for sure. But this 'design' would not work on the R50-53s. Design would work on the second gen cars though...I believe from only what I have 'seen'

 

Thats not 100% true. The other person who removed them in this thread also welded his, and it did nothing. There are also others you have replaced the inner plastic (delrin maybe) and the rattle went away.

With my car in the air i was able to wiggle the arm by gripping only the sleeve.

Why would it not work on the r53 aside from the mounting arrangement ? I havent had a chance to be under a r56, i *though* they were near identical, so why would it work on them ?

 

It really has to do with the inner ball joint. The 1st gen Mini's inner ball joint pivots above the control arm thus making the rear of the arm rock, rather then rotate. The second gen Mini's ball joint is "in" the arm (as I remeber because it's been a while) like the BMWs have always been and like the one pictured. This makes the back of tha arm rotate witout that rocking motion.

 

2009 Mini E: Suspension Walkaround

EDIT: It's for the MINI E, but it applies to all R56's.

 

Yup, the second gen ball joints are in the control arm, but point downwards unlike the e46 I imagine.

Not sure why the specced the thread to be so overly long, but it's almost an inch longer than necessary with the bolt under the subframe.

My close up of where the ball joint meets the subframe