Ok, I did this a while ago, but the jumble of wires bugged me and even more than that, the color just didn't match the rest of my 8000k hid's, so I decided to re-do them. There are many ways to do this, some simple & some not. You can do them the way I originally did, by simply buying individual led's pre wired with resistors to be used with 12v, I originally used Oznium's (LEDs - underbody kits, cathodes, flexible LED strips, dome lights) Surface Mount Led's, and while they worked just fine, there ended up being a bunch of wires you just couldn't work around: You could also get a pre-wired regular, round led in a few different sizes, and while they don't have the ribbon wire, there is still wire that you can't shorten because of the pre-wired resistors. Both of these methods are probably the simplest, just glue the led in place, & figure out how to hide the wires in the headlight housing. Or, you could of course buy the led's and resistors seperately and solder them together yourself, alleviating the extra wiring for each led, but you still have to go through the trouble of wiring a + & - to each one, so if your going to go through that much trouble, why use resistors at all? So, here's how: LED 101, the Oznium website will tell you that their led's will work within the range of 2 - 4 volts of supplied power, therefore if you try and wire a single led to 12v without a resistor, you will either burn it out very fast, or immediately. So the fix for this if you don't want to have each one individually wired with an in-line resistor, is to wire them direct, in "series" ( + to - to + to - ) until the desired division of voltage is reached. ( basiclly, with a 12v source, 1=12v, 2=6v, 3=4v, and so on) So with 8 led's involved I decided to wire them in a series of "4", therefore giving me an individual voltage of 3v, which would not only put me in the operating range of the led, but give me a little cushion for any slight power spikes. Also, since I was trying to "blue them up a little" I decided to add some blue led's to the mix, so here's what I used: Ozniums 5mm white led's w/o resistors. and their 3mm blue led's w/o resistors. (3mm as to just give a hint of blue, but to limit them even more, I individually heat shrinked them so that they would only shine from the tips) Basiclly I bent & soldered each lead so that they fit inside each indentation of the surround, again only 4 per series. (I tried all 8, but of course that brought the individual voltage down to 1.5v per led, and they would not light at all) Then I repeated the process with the 3mm blues in the lower recess of the housing, once everything was fitted, I simply put a small spot of clear silicone into each recess, and a bead of silicone into the trough (if you will) at the bottom of the housing, I simply sank the 2 sections of blu's into the silicone submerging the leads completely, and then placed the whites into the recessed areas, then used small pieces of duct tape on the leads to hold everything in place until the silicone set up. (I couldn't get any other type of tape to stick) After the silicone had set up I then finished soldering the ends of the appropriate leads to each other. (+ to +, - to -, all the while making sure not to cross any, then simply adding a jumper wire from either end + & -, to bring everything together in the center where I could then simply solder a single + and - to the leads for power to the unit. After this I carefully removed the pieces of tape ( I held the white leds in place with a finger and used a tweezers so that I didn't accidently pull the leds from the silicone). Then I covered the entire inside with a layer of silicone, being sure to cover all the leads & connections. (not only does the silicone act as an adheasive, but as an insulator as well) The end result looked like this: Not ness. that pretty, but extremely functional, and I only have 2 (+ & -) wires to mess with. Put everything back together & your done. Here's how it turned out: Here's a pic of only the drivers side being done, so you can see the before & after difference between the 2 different setups: (headlights off) (headlights on) Before: After: An added bonus to using a regular led, compaired to the surface mounts I used the first time, is that with the regular ones giving off light 360* instead of just 180*, they light up the projector globe nicely, both of those pic's are with the headlights off. Finished effect: The color now matches almost perfectly. Oh, and yes, if you're going to do it this way, give yourself plenty of time to have your headlights out of the car, not counting soldering time, it takes a good 1-2 hours for each application of silicone to dry. Also, while colored lights are illegal in most states, don't forget, you can always just power them with a switch instead of with your park lights, just for a different effect while parked, they take so little current, you could leave them on for a while without running down your battery much.