There is the ubiquitous any codes question first...
So, Any Codes?
You say the plugs are new. Have you checked the coil. The number 3 electrode seems to be notorious at times to be the first one to cause issues. I'd take a look there just to at least rule out something easy.
OEM Wires and coil work and are less expensive than some of the fancy stuff out there that have yet to show any gains IMHO.
While you're at it make sure all the plug wire ends are firmly on the plug.
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The contact ends on the coil all look good. How would I go about checking it to make sure its functioning properly? I have a set of Kingsborne wires on the way, to serve as a starting point for diagnosis.
If there were an issue with spark, though, wouldn't it be present all the time, not just periodically?
One theory on another board is the Shark "tune" has too much timing advance so once the car is at peak operational temp, the IAT is too warm, causing the car to misfire and the knock sensor kicks in. -
ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
If you have the ability to revert back to the "stock" ecu map try it. As the plug-in tunes do have a tendency to not be optimized very well for some cars.
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I took the car for a 10-15 minute drive this morning starting with a cold engine. Did a few good pulls around town. Pulled back into the garage and pulled the plugs and this is what I found (plugs are in order 1-4)
Looks like a lot of detonation to me, correct?
I think I'm going to have the dealer reflash the ecu back to factory settings. My strongest guess right now is the timing advance is just too much, causing detonation. -
Eric@Helix New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
I would try to loose that Conforti flash. The only times (2) I've seen a blown bottom end of a motor on a street MCS is with the combination of pulley and Conforti flash. Those plugs look pretty white. Run away.
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Whats strange is the old plugs that I pulled are a nice brown.
I do plan on removing the Conforti though. Any idea how much the dealer would charge for this? -
This is the Shark....
if you still have the unit you can plug it in and press the button again, and it puts the stock map back in.
Dealers vary, but shouldn't charge you more than 1/2 hour (shop min) to 1 hour of labor to do it.
Matt -
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I went through the same thing with my 02.
There are numerous reason why but if you are able to read your timing you will see that your current ECU mapping is pulling timing based on the temperatures of your Mini i.e. IAC,coolant.Which are constantly changing even with a constant driving condition like highway travel. I recommend getting a more current flash direct from a tuner. (not a remote) Or if you can at least a JCW re-map from a dealer. The stock mapping is not the way to go with your 02!
The plugs look slightly on the lean(?) side but it is hard to say because you have idle down showing as well which changes the complete plug readings! Although these are great shots you can not get a really good idea what is going on plug wise without a power pull reading. -
I agree detonation... all else considered, I strongly recommend a water meth system!!
Go 1 step colder on the spark plug, and find a good water-meth system. I use "Snow Performance" others out there Devils Own is good also...cost anywhere from 350.00 to a grand.. they all work the basic same by cooling the chambers and allowing more power!!
ANYwhere hot ( like here in Fl) and NO aftermarket Tune ( Mynes).. the water meth is a great safety!! Just a thought .....yes??
Just me...................................
Thumper -
I called up my local dealer than they said "reprogramming will take up a good portion of the day so I need to bring my car in the morning"..
Sounds like they're trying to rip me off.. -
I'm going go try colder plugs and see if that helps at all.
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A reflash is a QUICK thing!!
I would strongly recommend you stay away from HerbChambers....
A reprogram is like a max 1 hr job.....should be less, but that is the min charge for many. -
Before you spend $$ for a reflash, can you correlate higher IATs with the symptom?
So, does it always pull strong when the IATs are cold?
Also, do you have any means of getting some data logs from via the OBDII port?
Is it possible to contact the previous owner and ask a few questions, you have nothing to lose really. Can the symptoms be traced to the Conforti flash or maybe some other change to the car? This could be one of the reasons they sold it. Just ask!
Sure it certainly could be the ECU yanking timing due to an aggressive tune, and some of the canned tunes out there are known to have very aggressive timing, I am just saying to try to collect as much data as possible before you start throwing money/parts at it with the hope of getting lucky. -
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2 Months later...........
I just installed my Alta intake and Brisk DR12S plugs last night and this is what my BKR6EQUP's looked like. I haven't pushed the car at all over the past month, just normal driving really. These have about 3000 miles on them. There are about 6 darkened threads on them, so I was in definite need of colder plugs.
The pics probably won't tell much since I didn't do a hard accel/kill prior to pulling them.
I'm curious about the inconsistent coloration on the ceramic from plug to plug.
What I have noticed is much smoother performance and quicker throttle response with the intake and plugs. The car did still feel slow, however. Ambient temp was 85 out, so maybe that accounted for something.
Also, check out the discoloration on the insulator. 2nd from bottom one:
What is that about? Just too much heat?