Suspension Brakes Most liked posts in thread: Installing springs

Easy job...

only thing you might need is a spring compressor. I did my stock removal with ratcheting tie down straps! If you want to do this, put them on the car when the suspension is compressed. They can hold the spring but not compress it.

Most aftermarket springs don't need much compression at all to install. They can often be done just by leaning into them and starting them off with an air wrench.

Matt

 

Go down to your local Autozone and they'll rent You spring compressors for free, pay for them up front and upon an undamaged return, they happily refund your money.

 

Yep...

one other thing to consider as you do what you're doing, is that it would be an excellent time to add in some fixed camber plates. Might want to think about that.

Matt

ps, camber plates are my favorite mod, and were the very first on my car!

 

Yeah, you'll definitely appreciate camber plates, both on the track for performance and off-track for tire wear. VIR turn 1 is so much easier with more front camber. Does the R56 need adjustable rear control arms with lowering springs or is there enough adjustability stock?

Other than spring compressors, you'll need some way to torque the top nut on the strut. The instructions that came with my TSW springs said to use a medium air impact wrench and shoot for about 50 ft-lbs. I've seen a deep socket with a "window" cut in it to fit an allen wrench, and I've also used a strap wrench to hold the shaft. Yet another technique is to use a pipe wrench on the outside of a deep socket and stick an allen wrench thought the top of the socket. Either way, it's much easier with two people.

 

http://www.motoringalliance.com/library/2nd-generation-mini-cooper-how-to-4/replace-springs-shocks-struts-68/

 

It depends on how much the springs lower the vehicle, but for most springs the arms have adequate adjustment range available.

Another tip for the front strut nut. A thin wall deep impact socket and wrench is convenient, and if a torque stick of not more than 60ft-lb rating is used with the wrench & socket, it will prevent over-torque and shearing the shaft. I have struts where the allen slot is wallowed out, and I've used the torque stick many times without damage. Avoid riding the trigger after tightening the nut however.

 

Ireland engineering fixed camber plates.

 

Most likely get more from camber plaees than springs but both are best of course. Vorschlag adjustables are best but have no cushion and are pricey. IE fixed plates are a good low Buck alternative, I had those first and then went with the adjustables, but had springs with both. For the price of Vorshlags you can get springs and the IEs and later upgrade and sell the fixed ones as I did. Just my 2 cents

 

Actually you probably would end up with more than -1.5 and it might not be exactly equal on both sides. Yes you will get more tire wear when just driving to work and back but not so much on the track. Don't fall into believing that you can just adjust the camber for the track and then put it back when you leave. Changing the camber will move the toe too so an alignment is in order when you change it. No cushion means the plates are metal to metal or bearing which is much better for the track but does make for a bit rougher ride on the road. The stock plates and IEs have the bearing mounted in rubber to cushion the ride but also allows for flexing when under hard cornering. There are some adjustables out there with a pillow ball or a rubber bushing that is sort of a little of both. Everything is a compromise, better on the track usually means a bit rougher on the road and vice versa. This is why most go for a larger rear swaybar first, because it helps the understeer without effecting ride and tire wear as much. Me? I got both! 2 cents

PS: Note that just about all but the Vorshlag's will raise ride height on the front a tick.

 

Get the IE fixed plates...

I think the improved front contact patch managment will give you better tire wear. For me, going to -2 up front doubled my tire mileage (from about 12k a set to 23k+ a set) with high performance summer tires. I get totally even wear with this set up, but I live in hills so no matter the type of drive (commute or performance) I have a lot of turns in my path. Tire wear as a function of camber is dependant on driving type (flat freeway vs agressive turning) so there is no universal answer to your question. Me, I'd vote for the camber plates. A bit of understeer isn't a bad thing really, sure it's not as loose or fast a set up, but it is safer, especially for non-expert drivers.

I'm also not a big fan of a lot of lowering on the stock dampers, as they have somewhat limited travel and you can get them out of thier "sweet spot" really easily. But then again there are those that swear by lowering springs, so there is a lot of personal taste in that decision as well.

In terms of resale, the IE fixed plates will hold a lot of value if you do choose to sell them without too much wear. Springs not so much so, but you can always move the parts along and get some of your money back if you choose to upgrade.

Matt

 

Agree that lowering to much can be done pretty quick on a Mini, there is not a lot of suspension travel to begin with. When you run out of travel and the car sits on the bump stops the spring rate goes infinite.... Good case in point is the RSR cars, believe one of the big reasons they are winning is that they raised the cars up a bit and soften them a little. Previous years they were slammed and burned the tires off sliding around like go carts, now they grip and turn and don't use the tires up so quick. The springs and shocks are there for a reason, if they weren't usefull they would save the coin and weld it all together...lol

 

If money's tight but performance is the goal, do IE fixed plates and springs. Save your money up and do 'em both at the same time. You have to remove the upper spring perch anyways to change springs, so why not swap in some fixed camber plates while you're up there?

 

It's very little more trouble to just take them all the way out and with them on the bench it's easier to make sure everything is stacked properly... Really like the TSW springs on my R53!

 

Here are lowering springs proven to work well on both street and track, plus they don't put the MINI on the bump stops all the time; just cut the stops about a third. http://www.motoringalliance.com/forums/suspension/2585-abf-megamini-127-spec-springs-r56.html

Read the directions in the link below and visit the referenced alternate how-to for all things encountered when replacing springs.

With OE style springs there is not much room for additional negative camber, so adjustable plates are not very advantageous in that regard. I've installed more than a few of the IE plates and have not seen a difference between sides as others have reported.

 

What Keith said.

Way Motor Works sells the TSW R56 springs. I haven't driven those on the R56, but I can vouch for them on the R53.