So i took my car to a shop and got the issue fixed. Turns out i had on the calipers on wrong sides. I didn't know they had a side and since i bought them used, i grabbed one and it bolted on fine so i figured i was doing it right.
Now my car is up and running - Goodridge SS lines at all 4 corners, Motul rbf 600 brake fluid, 1st Gen JCW front brake and Akebono pads.
Thanks guys for all the help and advice though!
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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Probably have air in the system now. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full. Then open one bleed screw, let it flow by gravity always making sure the reservoir is filled.
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I guess sometimes, we just assume someone has done something correctly.
Never thought to ask if your nipples were pointing up...-
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
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If you changed over to bronze bushings, it's time to lube them and clean up the caliper guides.
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Eric@Helix New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
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I read that that i should bleed the clutch?
-- clueless about what is going on---
help! -
mrntd Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
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The clutch and brakes are 2 completely different hydraulic systems. No need to do anything on the clutch when do brakes.
Flush the brake fluid and replace it with something better instead of just bleeding it. It's cheep with everything else your doing. -
When bleeding the brake lines it was suggested to bleed them in this order: right rear caliper, left rear caliper, right front caliper, left front caliper.
At the risk of sounding dumb (but for my safety) I'm assuming right is passenger side and left is driver side? -
Firebro17 Dazed, but not ConfusedLifetime Supporter
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Yes
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Rawhyde Active Member
Just bleed them in order from the furthest from the master cylinder to the nearest.
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So today i changed my rear brake pads and sensor. And then I installing the 1st Gen JCW brake kit (caliper and rotors) and i installed Goodridge SS brake lines.
I bleed the two front calipers and now i dont have brakes at the pedal
My dad and i bleed it manually ( i used Motul RBF 600 )
Can anyone offer up any help? -
we bleed the driver side (cause we changed those lines and caliper first) then to the passenger. Then back to the driver, then back to the passenger.
My dad was adamant that there was no air coming out (he's a mechanic - just not certified, but knows his job).
As it regard to the "cycling the ABS" im not sure what that means. [At the risk of sounding stupid, i have a DSC light in the car that comes on most in the winter when i have wheel skid. does that mean i dont have ABS? :confused5: -
Crashton Club Coordinator
All new MINI's have ABS brakes.
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mrntd Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
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But he didn't drive the car since doing it air shouldn't gotten into the ABS block. But there probably is air in the system. I would do the bleeding procedure around the entire car.
I found getting all the air out when I changed the front system was a pain as well. -
If you have air anywhere high in the lines, it can get into the abs module, especially if the reservoir ever was dry during a bleed or fill, regardless of wether it's been driven or not. Auotenginuity has a tool that will cycle it. many local shops can do it, and of course the dealer can but you usually have to pledge your first unborn child to get them to do it.
Try Nate's suggestion first, hopefully that will take care of it. I'd look at the ABS next if it doesn't. -
Thanks for all the advice.
So i did drive the car hoping that somehow the pressure would build up or the brake would work in (and also i didn't have a choice, i had to get it home from where it was).
I know the reservoir was not dry at any given time.
I'm going to try to get one of the pressure bleeder (like the motive) and bleed all four lines in order that was mentioned earlier. If that does not work, I'll probably have to take it to a shop. Will keep you guys posted!
Note: The dealer quoted me $175 to flush the hydraulic system, which i think is "sort of" reasonable.
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