2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Most liked posts in thread: Is this the direction I should be heading?

Thought I would give an update to my original post.....

What I've learned, you can build or must buy a leakdown tester. It's easy to use, is worth the cost and definitely points you in the right direction. For example, if you have air escaping from the dipstick, it's probably the rings or if you have air escaping from a neighboring cylinder.... it could be a head gasket or valve issue.

It takes a few tools, and LOTS of time to remove the head on an R56. You need to purchase or borrow a special head bolt socket, a cam lock kit, a Bentley Manual and a leakdown tester as mentioned above. I even bought a flexible scope to evaluate the cylinders, etc.

I started my adventure by walnut blasting my cylinders, it's a WHOLE lot easier than trying to manually clean your intake valves....I did both! My valves were so CRUSTED over, I'm not sure how they even opened and closed. After doing the cleaning I performed a leakdown test, and still showed severe air leakage mainly between cylinders 3 & 4, but had leakage in all four....which matched the error codes I was blowing.

After failing the leakdown test for a second time, I decided to then start to dismantle my car! The entire process took about 15 hours, from the time I started by putting my car in "Radiator Service Position," to actual head removal. I'm sure I was slower than most, as I bagged and labeled all the bolts, etc. It's tedious, but pretty exciting too! :crazy: The head gasket was in perfect condition.

Now onto the next step, deciding which way to go with the head as the pistons look great, as do the cylinder walls. Any suggestions? I plan on keeping it pretty stock, as I'm limited to California SMOG laws, but would like to do something to give it a little more pep. How about a builder? When it comes to locking the cams, what is the normal process for the machinist to rebuild your head? The reason I ask...I saw in one post where the machinist send the cam lock to the buyer, on the completed head of course and the buyer sent them back after installing the head. If the machinist does not do that, what is the correct steps in assuring the 90 degree BTDC?

I also have a question about walnut blasting, and just how effective it is. What I found with the head removal, was that my job of blasting the intake valves was excellent, but also noted huge carbon deposits on the exhaust side of the head. If we are blasting only the intake side, how effective are we really since the exhaust side is probably nasty too? Also, looking at the valve that broke/burned...could that have been caused by excessive carbon buildup?

Much thanks for your input!

 

Update and question

I had the head rebuilt by a gentleman who has rebuilt other heads for me, and installed it yesterday. Finished assembling today, and the engine sure looks good!

BUT, when I went to start her, there is power...but the dash indicator displays that my key is not recognized and thus won't turn over to start.

I do recall a post stating that the car must be reflashed? Is that the case, or am I missing something stupid?

Much thanks,

Brett

 

Cool, thanks for the thought. I just really hate going to a dealer!!!
Would you happen to know of a good reader? I'm thinking of working on more minis and don't mind buying a good reader.

Brett