2nd Gen R56 Cooper S Is this the direction I should be heading?

Discussion in '2nd Generation: 2007+ R55 through R61' started by Austinsynthetics, Apr 11, 2013.

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  1. Austinsynthetics

    Austinsynthetics Active Member
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    #21 Austinsynthetics, May 12, 2013
    Thought I would give an update to my original post.....

    What I've learned, you can build or must buy a leakdown tester. It's easy to use, is worth the cost and definitely points you in the right direction. For example, if you have air escaping from the dipstick, it's probably the rings or if you have air escaping from a neighboring cylinder.... it could be a head gasket or valve issue.

    It takes a few tools, and LOTS of time to remove the head on an R56. You need to purchase or borrow a special head bolt socket, a cam lock kit, a Bentley Manual and a leakdown tester as mentioned above. I even bought a flexible scope to evaluate the cylinders, etc.

    I started my adventure by walnut blasting my cylinders, it's a WHOLE lot easier than trying to manually clean your intake valves....I did both! My valves were so CRUSTED over, I'm not sure how they even opened and closed. After doing the cleaning I performed a leakdown test, and still showed severe air leakage mainly between cylinders 3 & 4, but had leakage in all four....which matched the error codes I was blowing.

    After failing the leakdown test for a second time, I decided to then start to dismantle my car! The entire process took about 15 hours, from the time I started by putting my car in "Radiator Service Position," to actual head removal. I'm sure I was slower than most, as I bagged and labeled all the bolts, etc. It's tedious, but pretty exciting too! :crazy: The head gasket was in perfect condition.

    Now onto the next step, deciding which way to go with the head as the pistons look great, as do the cylinder walls. Any suggestions? I plan on keeping it pretty stock, as I'm limited to California SMOG laws, but would like to do something to give it a little more pep. How about a builder? When it comes to locking the cams, what is the normal process for the machinist to rebuild your head? The reason I ask...I saw in one post where the machinist send the cam lock to the buyer, on the completed head of course and the buyer sent them back after installing the head. If the machinist does not do that, what is the correct steps in assuring the 90 degree BTDC?

    I also have a question about walnut blasting, and just how effective it is. What I found with the head removal, was that my job of blasting the intake valves was excellent, but also noted huge carbon deposits on the exhaust side of the head. If we are blasting only the intake side, how effective are we really since the exhaust side is probably nasty too? Also, looking at the valve that broke/burned...could that have been caused by excessive carbon buildup?

    Much thanks for your input!
     

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  2. Dave.0

    Dave.0 Helix & RMW Powered
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    #22 Dave.0, May 12, 2013
    Holy crap that huge chunk out of that valve and that carbon build up is crazy. Sorry but I don't know anyone doing R56 head rebuilds.

    After you get everything back up and running you may want to think about adding a Methanol kit to keep the carbon cleaned up in the entire system.

    Howerton Engineering, LLC

    Howerton Engineering, LLC – MINI
     
  3. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

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    #23 jiminni, May 12, 2013
    Never ceases to amaze me what an R56 head looks like when torn down :crazy: I know is, Steve from CMS just sent the head that I talked about in this thread, bent ALL the intake valves, I should post a picture of them out of the head, looks kind comical, but......he just sent that head to a local, Fresno, rebuilder, Dave's Performance I think. You could call Steve about it :Thumbsup:
     
  4. oldbrokenwind

    oldbrokenwind Active Member

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    #24 oldbrokenwind, May 14, 2013
    Another head "rebuilder" is Thumper Performance --- a sponsor / vendor for this forum. A couple years ago, I bought one of his TPR1 heads (stock size valves) for my R56. Great results! I suggest you contact him for current info.

    Can't comment on smog controls 'cause my neighborhood doesn't require them.

    Best of luck with your engine rebuild ---
     
  5. Austinsynthetics

    Austinsynthetics Active Member
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    #25 Austinsynthetics, Jun 15, 2013
    Update and question

    I had the head rebuilt by a gentleman who has rebuilt other heads for me, and installed it yesterday. Finished assembling today, and the engine sure looks good!

    BUT, when I went to start her, there is power...but the dash indicator displays that my key is not recognized and thus won't turn over to start.

    I do recall a post stating that the car must be reflashed? Is that the case, or am I missing something stupid?

    Much thanks,

    Brett
     
  6. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

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    #26 jiminni, Jun 15, 2013
    Bummer......your most likely going to have to find someone with the main BMW ECU reader/flasher, to see what's going on. Maybe the immobilizer? There are shops out there, other than the dealer that have these, I'm lucky that my mechanic just got one :Thumbsup:
     
  7. Austinsynthetics

    Austinsynthetics Active Member
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    #27 Austinsynthetics, Jun 15, 2013
    Cool, thanks for the thought. I just really hate going to a dealer!!!
    Would you happen to know of a good reader? I'm thinking of working on more minis and don't mind buying a good reader.

    Brett
     
  8. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

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    #28 jiminni, Jun 15, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2013
    Well......the basic readers, the ones that cost $50 bucks can only do so much, I actually use a scanguage, it only reads and clears so much. Now there is a software called, "Bavarian Technic", that does much more, that's what my mechanic used to use, but still way more limited than what he has now, the main BMW software. But it, the main BMW software, cost's BIG BUCKS!!!!!! Here is the info on the Bavarian Technic, which is sold by FES, a vendor here on MA:

    BTW, the Pro software seems to do more than the original stuff they had, but not sure how much more?

    BAVARIAN TECHNIC DIAGNOSTIC SOFTWARE

    Diagnostic Software for BMWs and MINIs.
    Finally! Diagnostic software for BMWs and MINIs. Covers all new Minis, R50-R57! And it talks to all the subsystems, not just the OBD-II system. This software even lets you modify the service interval count and mileage! It can read and clear fault codes from all modules that "talk" via the diagnostic bus including the ABS system (airbag light). All normal OBD-II functions are supported as well. It will do real time data logging from modules that support it. Enthusiast system is limited to three VINs.

    OBD-II Codes and Datalogging - Service Interval Modification
    Air Bag System Checks - Supports many Subsystems
    Free Software Updates!
    This is a hardware and software tool that plugs into your Windows PC's USB port (check system requirements). Once plugged into the car, the tool is capable of communicating with the different system control units in the car.





    Bavarian Technic Diagnostic SW
    Finally! Diagnostic software for BMWs and MINIs. Covers all new Minis, R50-R57! And it talks to all the subsystems, not just the OBD-II system. Enthusiast system is limited to three VINs and does not include the command console.
    $ 286.95

    Bavarian Technics Pro Software
    Finally! Diagnostic software for BMWs and MINIs. Covers all new Minis, R50-R57! And it talks to all the subsystems, not just the OBD-II system. Pro Version has no vin limit and supports module coding.
    $ 674.95
     
  9. CamtheWookie

    CamtheWookie New Member

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    #29 CamtheWookie, Jun 16, 2013
    Here's another question - why does the cylinder with the broken valve look so much "cleaner" than the others?
     
  10. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

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    #30 jiminni, Jun 16, 2013
    More than likely because the injector was still injecting gas, cleaning the valve plate before the motor died?
     
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