The problem most probably isn't because the bolt is corroded, it's just the amount of torque used is more than you can produce with your setup.
This is one of the problems with trying to do complex jobs with limited tools, absent the factory holder what you need is an impact wrench....they make electric ones if you don't have access to compressed air.
Do you have the right puller to remove the damper? It doesn't just slide off, it needs the correct design puller.....and an impact wrench would help here too.
If you don't have these things you'd be better off to take it to a qualified shop and let them do it, but one word of warning, you need to follow the instructions that came with the new damper carefully - it's easy to mess up if you don't.
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Minidave Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
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While in gear, place a screw driver in a brake rotor vein on both front wheels, and brace against the brake caliper. This will provide the resistance needed for break-away, and to apply correct torque during installation.
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Jason Montague New MemberLifetime Supporter
:cornut: Also, 1st post. Welcome to MA and good luck with your project.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
The torque of a real air impact gun (in reverse) will remove the bolt.
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Here's an unorthodox trick that takes a bit of adventurous courage. Place a socket wrench on the bolt & rest the wrench arm securely somewhere on the lower control arm/sub-frame area to counter the motion of the crank pulley when engine is running. Make sure it's really secure. Turn the ignition to crank the engine but not start. You'll instantly get the bolt loosened. Proceed w/ caution. Tried this once on a friend's R53 recently. No sweat.
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter