Time to upgrade my front brakes, looks like my left drivers side caliper is sticking. Dives to the right side on braking, bugger. Makes sense as my rear drivers side muffler seam is blown out too. Darned Vermont salted roads, left side is always the worst. I've read up on k-huevo's report with R56 calipers and PF floating rotors (RSR race type), this set-up works well. I do mostly mostly hard mountain tarmac driving with one or two track events and an autocross every now and then, original brakes are close to toast at 48k mi. Poking around I found these... (I know the original style R53 JCW Sport Kit is NLA, but these look to be the same calipers and larger JCW cross-drilled rotors, similar kit?) Just checking to see if this kit will fit my 2006 R53. Should right? R56 calipers and rotors bolt right on, just need new front R56 hoses. 34110428914 ShopMINIUSA.com: John Cooper Works 16" Sport Brake Kit
It will fit with these wheels RealOEM.com * BMW R56 Cooper S Sports brake "John Cooper Works" If you wanted to have OEM components, that's as good as reason as any to get the kit; disregard the rest of this. Although you didn't ask for anything more than "if this kit will fit", I feel like sharing opinion too. I think the cost in the link is excessive, I think the sticking you mentioned can be corrected, and there are aftermarket options that can provide performance plus looks for less cost. Is there more pad wear on one front caliper than the other? Have you looked at the driver side strut to be sure the shipping shims have been removed? Anything caught between a spring coil on the left strut?
Thanks for the quick reply and opinion, yes $1425 seems expensive for painted red with logos. Opps, yes forgot to mention I run 17" R90s in the summer and 17" R85 S-Lites in the winter. Yes, the right pass side pads are worn a little more than the drivers side. Yes, shipping shims have been removed. I'll look again on the left strut as it could be LC arm bushings that might cause a slight dip to the pass side too. I think I can remember the right pass side leaving a small hyd fluid leak on my garage floor. Ok re fixing the sticking caliper, which could just be (most likely) needing service. My thoughts were to incorporate the fix with larger R56 S calipers and larger rotor size at the same time. I guess I'm spoiled with running larger Porsche 993 twin turbo calipers on my Audi S6. The PF floating rotors and R56 caliper set up report you did does seem nice, but I think the PF rotors are over my budget to get the whole R56 upgrade now but *could* possibly go this route in the future, hence to reason to go R56 calipers. Please advise on other recommended choices with R56 calipers and or just upgrades to stock brakes. I'm planning on running stainless steel lines too either way. TIA Cheers, Thompson
Unless you already have R56 calipers, or are expecting to get a pair cheap, TCE has a couple value packages.
There are a lot of choices out there. Besides what Keith mentions above please take a few minutes and visit the Motoring Alliance Sponsors. They all have some awesome braking solutions.
Checked TCE and sent an email to Todd asking if the R56 DynaPro 6 kit will fit my R53, should right? R56 DynaPro 6 Caliper kit + Early 34116768933 - JCW R53 Disc Brake Rotor 294x22 or Later 34116777826 - Ventilated-perforated brake disk. 294X22 Stock rear rotors with braided lines will be needed. What would be a good pad for the rear to match? That would make for a nice upgrade! Now I've got to get it past the MoF... I also need a new rear drivers side exhaust and want to replace the whole unit with a Milltek.
Just looking at a photo of this setup (DP6 caliper with OE rotors) there is one thing that doesn't look right to me. All the unused rotor surface on the lower area (in towards the hub) that the DP6 doesn't and can't take advantage of. This will turn to solid rust where I live. I'll be better off with the Plus 1 track kit or Plus 2 street kit and removing all that unnecessary unused weight towards the hub with a lighter rotor/hat. Decisions... the wheels keep turning. (found on NAM posted by Todd for ref.)
Not only is the unswept area visually unappealing, the rotor veins are non-directional. I recommend upgrading to a directional veined rotor if you have the option. StopTech Street Performance pads can handle a fair amount of heat and won't squeal.
I have no issues with the DP6 or the rotors appearance. If the rotor has a coating the area not in the fire path will not rust. Stopping is great, much better than my R53 JCW brake kit and the R56 Brembo's I had. I am sure that can be debated, but I am thrilled.
@Professor - checked your gallery. You prefer the DP6 and rotor (in photo) over the R56 JCW Brembo you had? Looks nice, tease :wink: . Please provide more details on what rotor brand, front pads, rear pads (and rotors) where to buy and how it drives. Thx. edit... SP slotted rotors !
Since I needed to do all my brakes, I decided to just upgrade to the 2009 > JCW Sports Brake Kit all around. Free shipping from Aaron at outmotoring, couldn't pass that up, 84lbs on a little German pallet! #34 11 0 432 802 - JCW Brembo Sports Brake Kit Also needed for the install swap over... #34 30 6 788 442 - 2x R56 front lines #3024562 - 15mm H&R spacers with longer 12x1.5, 40mm lug bolts when I run my winter R85s, don't think I'll need these for my R90s. - Made some adaptors at the shop for the rear calipers, we had all the parts on the shelf :wink: and a brake flaring tool.