The only people I've ever heard say "I love drone" don't really know what it is, and haven't owned a car that did it.
Drone is when the exhaust's resonant frequency makes the entire car resonate like you're inside a subwoofer. It does not sound "good" or "loud". It just makes your head HURT. BADLY.
What you really want is a loud exhaust with no drone. Which is what I have... Miltek with catless RMW header. And mine blows flames out the back. :devil:
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
- 2,896
- Professional Facilitator and Alignment Consultant
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- +2,896 / 0 / -0
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Not anymore!
Dick, I owe you big time. Seriously. Thanks again man.
And everyone, Dick does some very nice paint work. Ship him your shtuff so he can make it look better.
Loving the torque on the 15% pulley, and the whine is great too. I ordered colder plugs today, and they're arriving tomorrow.
It's so nice to finally do some mods to my car. :cornut:-
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
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Actually, not exciting at all.
There was a metallic *CLING*, the car bogged down a bit, and the battery light came on. I pulled over, my belt was all sorts of a jumbled mess, and a nice man on a bright orange chopper pulled up behind me to give me my SC pulley. Right before he roared off again, he told me "Yeah man, I gotta MINI too. I know how it is"
I couldn't help myself from laughing at that.-
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vetsvette MINI Alliance Ambassador
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Quick, short update. I got my Continentals fitted, and holy shtuff those things grip the road with a vengeance. I'm really enjoying them.
HOWEVER Chris from Sleek Motoring forgot to balance them. So the second I hit speeds over 30, wobble ensued. I went back in, and got them balanced. Buuut I was still getting a little wobble, but only under acceleration, and the higher my RPM, the higher the wobble feedback. So obviously, not a balance issue. I had Joe take it out for a spin, his best guess is CV axles. If you rip the car through a lane change really quick, it'll go away for a few seconds. So those now have to eventually be replaced. :sad:
I made some new friends yesterday, and they drive a restored 1969 F100, a gorgeous 1989 Porsche 944, and a 2010 VW GTi with Miltek exhaust, CAI, new injectors, and a tune. He was running 260hp, according to him. Me and the GTi guy raced four times on an abandoned road nearby. The end result was 2-2. I was proud of myself for keeping up with him. :cornut:
So a good day, overall. I'm just a bit sad about my axles...-
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Ok, so Milltek is recommended. Got it. I'm still very tempted to go with a straight pipe, but I do see how it could maybe get old. I dunno though. The louder the better in my opinion. And there are no noise ordinances where I live either.
Thanks for the compliment, good sir. It looks way better with the current tires on it. That's odd, I have NO torque steer to speak of really. I do have the LSD though.
And it is fun to see my age people getting into MINIs. All my friends really like it.-
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TheModFather Well-Known Member
- May 15, 2012
- 5,310
- 11 years in the ARMY, 2 years of being a multitale
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You've ridden in my car... You know how loud a straight pipe is on an R53!
Honestly its even too much for me to handle anymore, which is why its on the list of things I am changing... [emoji12][emoji482]
Miltek is top notch, but there are other and cheaper options... At the end of the day the 1/2 price POS from China is going to free up the same amount of power, its the durability and sound that you're paying for.-
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
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If you look in your intake, there's a rubber grommet (about 2" across) between the airbox and the plastic cowl wall. That grommet has a plastic plate blocking it. If you knock the plate out (keep the grommet) that will let the stock airbox breathe a little through the cowl. All by itself, that will give you a bit more SC whine. That plus adding the pulley will make it sound MUCH better than stock.
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Don't listen to blimey. He doesn't even know when he's in reverse. :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: (See blimeys thread about his PDC).
Sorry, blimey, couldn't resist the temptation. :devil:-
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With 1" (25 mm) spacers you need to be aware of the size of the wheel (dia, width, offset) and tires (width, aspect ratio) to be used to not have rubbing in the rear, especially when you lower the car. With 215/45-17 tires a 25 mm spacer might be too much. The wheel specs should be marked on the back side of the wheel.
If you just want a slight lowering and do not plan to adjust the ride height, I would suggest just getting lowering springs and shocks rather than coil-overs. Coil-overs just add complexity and cost that might not be needed.
You might also want to think about front camber plates so that you can increase the amount of negative camber for better handling. Maybe something like the IE Fixed plates. If you go with coil-overs, look for ones that come with camber plates. The camber plates and 19mm rear sway bar are a nice combination.-
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ScottinBend Space CowboySupporting Member
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I'm back! Sorry it's been so long, I know you've all been waiting with baited breath. Haha.
Since I last posted, all that's happened is things went boom and I fixed them.
Nothing too important, just my oil filter cap cracking and leaking, then my thermostat started leaking which blew out my coolant cap and on and on.
In short, I have it all back together and fixed now. I just finished replacing my thermostat and doing a coolant flush and fill tonight (only took a little under two hours of my time, so that was nice), so now my car is back in working order. And I put a new cap on it as well.
Also got a speeding ticket last week for going a liiiiiittle too fast. The nice lady who pulled me over dropped the ticket to a 5-9 over though, so I'm only looking at $110 in charges and 1 point. I've slowed down considerably since. I think I really should take some of your guy's advice and hit a track to let out some of that speed-demon-ness inside of me.
I've also gotten back to working full time, so now the money is coming in much quicker than before. I just registered for my classes for this up-coming semester, and those are now all paid for, so I finally have a little bit of spare cash piling up for a modest mod budget. Smile
I've decided on going for a straight-pipe first, but I want to know who to get it from. Local, or should I commission it out to a shop? If anyone on here has had a great experience with a custom straight pipe, please let me know who did it, and an attached sound clip would be appreciated too.
I know a lot of welders who could probably do it for me, but I would rather trust a professional to tune the sound right.-
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Dave.0 Helix & RMW PoweredLifetime Supporter
If you are doing a straight pipe make sure you save the OEM or whatever exhaust you have on your car now.
I have a custom locally made straight pipe exhaust that I put one in the Spring for the Dragon and a month or two after. It is LOUD, very loud.
The best thing to do is have one custom made for you locally because they can measure and build it right on the car on a lift. Mail order is not the way to go.
Also doing this locally allows you to have them add resonators to try and bring the drone down a little after you drive it for a while.
I say after a while because the brand new stainless straight exhaust will be LOUD like an F1 car because the pipes are bare inside. You have to drive it a while and let carbon build up on the inside of the pipes and the tone will become much deeper but still be loud.
Most people and cops do not like loud exhaust like Nathan and I have so if you drive it daily be prepared to make noise ordinance donations to you local government. :lol:
FYI the straight pipe is for noise only and you will not gain any HP. If you want a excellent exhaust that will last and is high quality I would buy a Milltek
It's the one I have and I have been taking it on and off for 7 + years when I swap in straight pipe.-
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