I believe I would stick with a Volvo for the Mom and Kid. They've already proved they can protect you in an accident. Glad your son wasn't in the car at the time. Your Mini looks great!
Page 3 of 4
-
vetsvette MINI Alliance Ambassador
-
And this is why people buy Volvos'. Not much fun, but, they do crash well.
-
DneprDave Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
Dave -
Crashton Club Coordinator
Glad very she is OK.
-
Metalman Well-Known MemberLifetime Supporter
- Sep 29, 2009
- 7,688
- Ex-Owner (Retired) of a custom metal fab company.
- Ratings:
- +7,960 / 1 / -0
Chuck....
Texting with a mirror again I see.... -
Tummi_Gummi New Member
Seat belts save lives. The cuts on her head came from when she unbuckled herself and fell on the ceiling of the car. I don't want to even think if my son was there.
-
Tummi_Gummi New Member
-
Crashton Club Coordinator
Very nice.
-
Apok New Member
- Jun 15, 2013
- 357
- Sadly, finance. The most boring job in the world.
- Ratings:
- +357 / 0 / -0
-
Looking good!
-
Tummi_Gummi New Member
Hi guys, so this thread has been known to be my blog so to speak. It's been a long time since I have posted here. I have some bad news, I did not make it to 300k mile marker. I'm just shy of 290k and lost almost all compression in cylinder 4. So I pulled the head and found too many cracks to count. Some going half way up the spark plug threads, some over to the water jackets, most going under the valve seats. The head is garbage without saying. My valves, springs, retainers are all in perfect shape. The valves had less than a thousandth of wear on them so I may sell them to recoup some cost down the road. I have found a solid rebuilt head for 750$ I think I'll be buying. It's complete with rocker assembly and cam. Which I won't have a need for(I'll move my rockers and cam over). Here are some pictures of my busted head.
Looks like all my cylinders were being steam cleaned. My compression test was 125/120/130/60 psi. The photo of the valve seats was at cylinder 4. My bottom end seems fine. I just had the pan off and replaced my timing assembly and oil pan gasket as well as oil pump, I put a new belt on too. My boost went from 14 psi to 18psi where it should be given my mods. Then the head went. I'm guessing I had these cracks for a while and must have had my timing off a tooth or two and when I redid my timing I gained back my power which pushed the limits of the already weakened head causing it to finally crack all the way through. I had combustion gases coming out of my oil filler cap when I was compression testing cylinder 4 as well as air bubbles popping up in my coolant reservoir. The others I didn't have combustion gas emitting from the oil filler cap but I never took the water reservoir cap off until cylinder 4. So I'm thinking I probably would have had the same bubbling in the coolant from the others as well.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk -
Tummi_Gummi New Member
Also the coating on my supercharger turbines is coming off. Is this something that should be addressed immediately or wait until it fails?
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk -
I don't know about the coating but it may be time for one of these!
http://store.revolutionmini.com -
Tummi_Gummi New Member
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk -
I was going to get the Alta light bar. A few people here have them and like them. But I went with this one form Outmotoring and really like it.
http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-cooper/mini-cooper-driving-light-brackets.html
As you can see from my avatar I went from 4 lights to 2. Before I had the ones that attach to the upper grill. Don't use those, they are worthless. The ones from outmotoring are very solid. You can add 4 if you like. the only down side is you have to cut the grill but they still look good. -
Tummi_Gummi New Member
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk -
You can keep them all one level but yes you would have to buy two kits. My old mounts would let the lights shake when you hit bumps these don't do that, they are very sturdy. The down side is they cost more than the Alta.
-
Tummi_Gummi New Member
Today I dropped off my CSF radiator. If its going to cost me too much to repair it then I'll probably just end up buying another. Not really sure why but they said they made need to remove the entire tank if the crack is from the core to the tank. And upwards of 175$. That's just ridiculous. I said call me before you do anything to it. Has anyone had any luck JB welding aluminum radiators? If the cracks on the horizontal part where it mates with the side tank couldn't I just pull back some fins and JB weld inside of it and use a tooth pick to spread it around? It's gotta be pin hole sized because it wouldn't leak without the coolant at operating temps. And it would just hiss as it barely came out.
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Page 3 of 4