Well let's recap over the last week and a few threads.
We are all douchebags. ColinGreene is hiding the numbers. Just because we know each other and trust each other means nothing. And we are all dumba$$e$.
But we seam to know enough to be able to answer questions, well not that ColinGreene dud he is hiding the numbers and I bet he has never seen a mini:frown2:
I own a R53 that I autocross and use the Variant 3 KW coilovers.
I can't answer that without knowing what you want from your car. Do you want to drive at the limit of adhesion? Are you looking for something different than the stock handling. My car with Variant 3 dampers has 400 LBs springs in front and 500 LBs springs in the rear. The stock spring rate on a R53 is 175 LBs front and rear. The car handles great, but it is very stiff in comparison to the stock setup. It isn't harsh, and by that I mean it doesn't bottom out on the bump stops the way the stock suspension does. The biggest difference in quality between dampers is the force they resist movement with at different shaft speed or velocities. Better quality dampers can develop adequate low shaft speed damping without the high shaft speed damping being too high. The low speed damping is what is important to car response and handling. This is one of the biggest differences between inexpensive dampers and higher quality dampers. KW makes a good product, and I am very happy. You can spend a lot more money and get something better, but I do not believe that for autocrossing I would see any difference. I do not drive my car in downtown Washington DC where I live because of the roads. The roads are very bumpy and it would be uncomfortable. I have a pickup truck or a BMW for that.
I believe many things, many are a leap of faith because people that I know and have trust in have experience. Genik, I believe that if one can't be bothered to spell another's name correctly when conversing this is a lack of respect. Typos happen, to defend yourself by calling the other person childish shows your lack of respect.
It is painfully obvious you, Genik, embrace the current Greek ethos of take take take with no intent on repayment in any way. You've been asking us questions for quite some time now. Yet once a reply is proffered there is no thanks given. Nothing is returned. Follow-up on the situation is not supplied. We have no idea if we've been helpful. So, much like your government you keep taking with a woe is me attitude.
It's time to give back. Your debt with us is deep.
Genik, My name is directly above you. No real good excuse to mispell. I check to make sure i give you the respect of using the name you have chose properly.
I really dont want to comunicate with you further since its sort of apparent regardless of what i tell you, you will continue to argue with me.
If anyone else has shock questions then Ill be happy to answer them if you geninely want to hear what i have to say and not argue with everything i think or belive.
Asking for dyno numbers i have gone to the trouble to obtain for free is similar to me asking you to do work for free....
V1 = Street = height adjustable only.
V2 = Street = height and rebound adjustment
V3 = Street = height, rebound, and low speed compression (not fully adjustable like some vendors will make it seem).
Changing ride height - lift the car, get an alignment
changing rebound - well, the adjuster in the front can be reached through the camber plate, but in the back, well, remove the shock, make sure you mark position of it, or you'll need another alignment once you put it back in.
changing bump on V3 shocks is done at the bottom of the shock, so you can do that without much trouble.
And real life difference depends on what you do with the car. If you drive the thing to the grocery store, you'll never know the difference other than that it's a little stiffer and lower.
Even though I looked at them for a long time, I never bought a KW unit - bought Colin's revalved and Switft spring-modded BCs instead and couldn't be happier (also saved about $1k over the KW/Vorschlag combo I was looking at).
Part of the problem with any KW is that its a very old style Twin tube damper
So for any given spring rate it will ride diffrently over rough pavment than a mono tube.
but the real drawback is the damper resolution.
think of it as a computer processor that can only handle so much then it freezes up/
Thats what happens to KWs when worked hard, and they then feel floaty.
Genik, you're a real gem. It'd be my pleasure to teach you some respect and proper manners for others. Suffice it to say, that would be a complete waste of time as I'm sure you'd not get that either. :mtrn:
I'm running ST-XTA coilovers and they ride and handle great. This is the first lowered car I've had that was more comfortable and handled better than stock.
ST is a subsidiary of KW and the XTA's are a blend of a few different series. The struts have damping adjustments like the V2's, and linear front springs and uniball adjustable camber plates like the KW Clubsports. The bodies are galvanized with a 5 yr warranty instead of INOX stainless lifetime warranty.
If you live in an area where the weather isnt hard on your suspension and mostly drive on the street, they're a great value. I got them on sale for $1200 delivered.
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