Calipers leak
for two reasons. Bad seals and bad sealing surfaces. Usually if the leak persists through a rebuild, it's a ring groove or the like that has had some corrosion or a scratch. They can be polished to be leak free, but doing the bottom of a piston groove takes some patience. The cheapest thing to do is get all Zen and polish the grooves, the faster thing is to just slap on another caliper.
Matt
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Thanks Matt--I reached Way this afternoon (after hours; not the first time the phone has been on after closing time--he'll learn one of these days
), and I'm just going to replace it. That way I have no worries.
It's frustrating, because I was out on the track with them--they worked fine (In fact I took a nice chunk off my lap times this weekend), but it's time to get it fixed.
Stinks though, because the time I had allotted for Group4 goodness is now going to be devoted to brakes. I'll get the Group4 stuff on over the winter though; give me something to do when there's 6 feet of snow on the ground... -
Well
once you have the new one, you can tinker on the other one, find the source of the leak, clean it up and have it on the shelf.... Besides being a good paper weight, you never know when you'll need it.
Matt -
FUEGO Club Coordinator
Did you replace all of the seals including the o-rings between the inner caliper, spacer and outer caliper too? I had leaking in one of the o-rings between the mating surfaces of my MDM kit but the piston seals were OK. I now replace all of the seals and o-rings just before the beginning of each DE and AX season.
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No--I didn't do the O-Rings. That's a thought--hope to hear back from Way again today--where did you get the O-rings? If I can get those quick, I could do a quick rebuild this weekend and see what happens. I have a track day October 2 and 3rd, and I'm sweating bullets right now....
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FUEGO Club Coordinator
I got mine through TSW last time, but if Way doesn't have them you should be able to get from any site/dealer of Outlaw calipers. Chad at Detroit Tuned can probably get them for you too.
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FUEGO Club Coordinator
Here is another source, although I'm not sure which kit (at work).
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FUEGO Club Coordinator
I believe this was the kit I used (click on pic, from another source):
[IMGLINK]http://www.performatek.com/Alfa/brakes/Outlaw/225-2295.jpg[/IMGLINK] -
I think that's what I used as well...
But here's a hint. Measure the o-ring when you get a kit. Then you can buy a handfull of the suckers from an o-ring distributor!
Matt -
FUEGO Club Coordinator
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Thanks guys--I appreciate it big time. It would be so sweet if it's simply a leaking O-ring. Gonna order those ASAP, as I'm still not sure how quickly I can get another BDM caliper.
So if I take the caliper apart, is it obvious where these go? Any tricks to them? I'm thinking it should be relatively straighforward--just between the spacer and the caliper, but you never know. I've taken the calipers off several times, but I've never actually taken the caliper itself apart, other than the pistons. -
No tricks...
and you can take the caliper apart, and if it is these o-rings you will see evidence of it from fluid tracks and the like. I think on NAM I did a thread on rebuilding Outlaw calipers. I had what was once called the DBB or something like that, (damned big brakes) that becaume the Detroit Tuned BBK. Started as a kit some member made then had enough of it and moved the design along.
You will also find that the size (width of rotor) of the Outlaw caliper is set by little aluminum blocks that go between the inner and outer half. Kind of nice modular approach! I don't remember the torque setting for the bolts when you put them back together....
It's not a hard job....
Matt -
FUEGO Club Coordinator
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I remember now!!!
it was the BBB kit.... Bad-asssed Big Brakes! Used a Supra rotor. Heavy but cheap....
Matt -
Detroit Tuned Well-Known MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
i just also just replace my inner seals after having my DT Kit on my car for several years. Several track days and a few years for driving and the seals had seen better days. i am going to start stocking the inner seals now, but i always have a piston seal kit on the shelf. i am always here to help since the TSW is basically the same as my kit.
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Yep--I did clean the pistons with a scotch bright--they looked pretty darned good before I reinstalled them. Cleaned out the inside part of the cylinders too--everything looked nice and clean when I put it back together.
I may still get a new caliper, depending on price, but either way, I'm still going to tear the driver's side apart and put in the o-rings and test it. If I can't get a new caliper, then I've got to hope and pray it's just the o-rings. I'm up against the clock; I have a full weekend at Road America Oct.2nd and 3rd. Hate to miss it, hope I can get all the parts and get this done in time.
Chad, will the seals you have in stock now work on the outlaw 2000? If so, I'll order this afternoon. BTW the autopower rollbar worked out great--really happy with it! -
Been there as well. When I rebuilt the calipers there was one that has a very small leak with that inner spacer O Ring as well. Cleaning up the little mess and installing new o-rings fixed my issue.
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Got the seals from Pegasus--they're right up the road from me--should be here tomorrow or Thursday at the latest. I hope this does the trick...
Nate, do you know the torque setting on the caliper bolts (the brownish black ones holding the inner and outer calipers together), and the size of the bolts--looks like an allen wrench type of bolt, if memory serves...
Anyway, thanks everyone for all the help--feeling a little better now; I REALLY want to make Road America. -
Sorry, I don't remember. I did them with Jeff at TSW World HQ where we took notes and pictures for an article but then TSW was sold before it was completed.
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This is heresy..
but I find there are only a few torques that actually matter:
Snug: for little itty bitty things.
Firm: for things that use a 1/4" drive...
Tight: About as far as I'd go for anything threaded into Al...
Really Tight: When I have to use a bit of leverage to get there....
Really Friggin Tight: for things that use a really friggin' big wrench!
And the last: Oops! This is when the bolt is in two peices.
Now, there are some things that I'm adamant about using a torque wrench on, but the rest usually get one from the above list. The caliper bolts get the "Firm".
Matt
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