Brakes Wheels 1st Gen Tires Most liked posts in thread: Left rear tire has bumps on inside edge

My old BMW had issues like that on the right front tire when I bought the car. The shock was so bad it was leaking fluid. At your mileage you're probably due for new shocks anyways.

The previous owner of my car didn't address the problem for about 20,000 miles. The bad shock and tire vibration wore out the tie rod ball joints, control arm ball joints, endlinks, and motor mounts on that side. One tire was almost bald and the other three had 50% tread left.

 

OP: do you have enough internet/forum information to be totally confused? while these forums can often be sources of good information, they can also be the source of total BS. almost every suspension component has been mentioned as a possible source of your problem. Consult a professional in whose judgement you trust. my best guess has already been mentioned. just a guess, like most others.

greg

 

BUZZ KILLER!!!

 

There is always good & not so good info offered on line. The trick is tell one from the other. IMHO there have been some very good suggestions made in this thread. Your mileage may vary Greg.

 

Remote analysis without pictures is pretty tough to do.
I'll get customers who call me on the phone and ask if I can do a metal repair and what it would cost. I'll jokingly ask them to hold it up to the phone so I can see it.

Boom Bada Boom Boom

 

That is cupping. New shocks is probably going to do a lot more than you think. Especially if you upgrade. Replacing my perfectly good 100k shocks with the FSDs was like night and day.

Good news is the new tires are going to be 100% quieter too. Basically now your car is dribbling your tire. It may have been caused by the front if you rotate them since there are more wear items that may need replacing. My cupped tire was from a bad LCA bushing that ruined everything up front when the original owner just drove the car that way. Tire cupped, bearing needed replacing, rotors got ruined, it just shook the crap out of everything as it dribbled the tire. As always fixing it right is cheaper than being cheap.

 

I think that is nuts.... :crazy:

 

I vote for not reasonable.
4-wheel alignment should be about $100.
Strut install is about 2 hour labor (probably less), so about $200.
So that leaves $1000 for new shocks. That is expensive for OEM type shocks.
Even Koni FSDs are only $715.
KONI FSD Shocks - Way Motor Works

 

For OEM struts/shocks; penskeparts.com has them for $150 each front and $100 each rear. So about $500 for the set plus tax/shipping.

 

The $1332 sounds about normal for a SHOP who base their times off of "book" time. Book time to do the strut/shocks is likely in the 4hr range, and then mark up on parts supplied.

IMO Thats to much money, especially if you think you would be capable of doing it yourself. Suspension is one of the easiest things to do on the MINI so far..

 

I think a chain place like Tire Kingdom is going to gouge you. It may take a bit of research on your part, but I believe that job can be done for a lot less.

 

The valving in the strut is probably slightly different to compensate for the different overall weight and front/rear balance.

 

I'd recommend calling & talking with Chad at Detroit tuned he is very knowledgeable on all things MINI.

Koni FSD Shocks - Detroit Tuned

Helix also knows their way around a MINI.

Helix Motorsports

 

The Koni yellows are manually externally adjustable so any difference can be compensated for in the shock adjustment. The Koni FSD adjust automatically to the driving conditions so the shock will make the compensation.
Thus, the same Koni for the R53 will work for the R52.