Joining this thread late, but the other day I had the wheel off and noticed bumps on my two rear tires on the inner edge.
This is what I think happened. Last year I had the alignment set at -2 in the rear. This year after doing some research the recommended set up was more like -2 in the front and -1 in the rear. This set up was much better this year, but perhaps since I ran a whole season at -2 they may have already been worn a certain way.
Make any sense? Sorry to highjack temporarily.
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Mr. Jim MudsharkLifetime Supporter
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KC Jr 54 New Member
In which measurement are you talking as far as -1 and -2 ?
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Factory shocks are engineered to work with the entire suspension including the horrible run-flats (or not) depending on model.
Aftermarket is not going to have to walk the middle ground between grandma and an enthusiast. They can just make them for performance. Personally for my use, the FSDs have been great. I take the wife's MCS out with runflats and stock suspension and cringe at every bump. My car and hers ride so differently even she noticed the second time she drove it. ("Your car is smoother over the bumps")
At the same time, it is much much more stable. -
Mr. Jim MudsharkLifetime Supporter
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Sorry to temporarily return to the original
, but, this morning I discovered the existence of Under Tower Indurators - CravenSpeed Online, and I'm wondering whether to go that route, for $75 + shipping, or the IE fixed camber plates for more than double that cost. I doubt that I would appreciate the difference in camber. I do drive the car hard and love the twistys, but don't autox. I am planning to keep it for the foreseeable future (which I hope is a long time), and hope to eventually end up with 17" wheels, so I think some concern for mushrooming is reasonable.
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Crashton Club Coordinator
Personally I chose the IE fixed plates & I am glad that I did.
You will notice a nice improvement in the way your MINI handles. In my case I also noticed improved tire wear. The labor is almost the same to install either. Remember to have your MINI aligned once they are installed. -
Another advantage of the IE camber plates is that the rubber bushing is a little thicker/tougher than the stock rubber which tends to rip/tear.
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Crashton Club Coordinator
^ Yes the bearings & rubber are more robust that the stock part. Even so they are quiet like stock ones.
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KC Jr 54 New Member
And if your current strut tower bearing/bushings are the original, then they are also likely in need of replacement too. The IE Fixed plates are a pretty good option for everything you get out of just one item. I would still suggest a strut defender that attaches on the top side, specifically the Craven Speed ones. IMO The m7 is a waste of money in defending against mushrooming.
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This morning I bit the bullet and ordered a set of Koni FDs, IE fixed camber plates, poly front swaybar bushings, and poly rear upper shock bushings. Thanks to all of you for the guidance.
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Crashton Club Coordinator
Great, let us know how you like them when everything is buttoned up.
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Parts arrived today - Hooray for Way Motor Works!
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I'm thinking about the post-install alignment. I am a little concerned about how to find a good shop, but I do know one guy whose recommendation I would value. I know I should tell the alignment shop about the additional negative camber from the IE plates. Should that affect what they are trying to do with the toe?
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They may try to correct the camber as it will be out of factory spec...so let them know that that is a desired setting. Then set the toe to what you want t to be.
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What do I want the toe to be? I have no idea what factory spec should be, and whether or not the fixed camber plates change the desirable toe.
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It is a good idea to get a four wheel alignment. Make sure the shop will adjust the rear toe. Some will not because it is a pain without the BMW tool.
I provide my own alignment specs to the tire shop I go to and they are good about working to my specs. Just ask the shops you are considering if they will adjust to your specs and adjust the rear toe.
There are many thoughts on alignment specs. With increased negative camber it is best for tire wear to limit the amount of toe so you are not scrapping the inside tire edge across the ground. I run a little toe-out in the front and zero toe in the rear. OEM spec is front toe-in and rear toe-in.
Here are the specs I use but I have adj front camber so a little more negative than you will have.
Front:
Left Camber: -2.0 (-1.9 to -2.1)
Right Camber: -2.0 (-1.9 to -2.1)
Cross Camber: 0.0 (0.0 to 0.2)
Left Toe: -0.07 (-0.06 to -0.08 Toe-Out)
Right Toe: -0.07 (-0.06 to -0.08 Toe-Out)
Total Toe: -0.14 (-0.12 to -0.16)
Caster: Not Adjustable
Rear
Left Camber: -1.5 (-1.4 to -1.6)
Right Camber: -1.5 (-1.4 to -1.6)
Cross Camber: 0.0 (0.0 to 0.2)
Left Toe: 0.00 (0.00 to 0.07 Toe-In)
Right Toe: 0.00 (0.00 to 0.07 Toe-In)
Total Toe: 0.00 (0.00 to 0.14 Toe-In) -
Crashton Club Coordinator
By all means get an alignment. Installing the IE fixed camber plates will make your MINI go toe-in.
Your alignment shop should have the spec's for your MINI. It is very important to find a good shop that knows their stuff.
My car ended up with
front L -1.8 & R -1.9 0 toe
rear L -1.5 & R - 1.5 0.23 toe-in
I am running 0 toe at the front & a very small amount at the rear. It is my feeling that on a car that sees auto x or track use some toe-out is beneficial, I did not feel it was desirable for me on my street car.
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