I have the dyno results everybody This time I dyno my own car, first time with the printed charge pipe and second time with the oem setup. The intake was exactly the same both times ( filter, air box, air tubes), everything was OEM (only difference was thecharge pipe). I did in total 4 runs each time. 100 RON fuel, close hood same temperature (26 degrees). Power: Result.... there is in AVERAGE (4 runs) only 1 hp difference . Of course I can't consider that as a plus or minus. Average 201 hp. IAT: It seems that with the printed model IATs are a bit lower. For example the 4th run : Printed charge pipe MAX=60 C , OEM MAX=63 C Average values as very close during the whole run. Average Air Mass kg/h: 4th run OEM: 403 kg/h Printed model: 414 kg/h PSI: Very close both Conclusion: No extra power for sure (that's the easiest to conclude). It seems that with the printed model the engine responded a bit better, lower IATs and maybe it breaths a bit better. I was surprised that the carbon reinforced nylon printed model could take that abuse! I drove with it 1000 km , including fast driving at the mountain, heavy traffic in Athens with around 30 degrees Celsius outside and 4 dyno pulls So defiantly this material is up to the task and so useful for testing. What's next? Two versions: Long pipe has considerable lower IATs (5 degrees down, with 4 degrees more outside temperature) and plus 12 whp at the redline... but average wise I am not happy at all. Yes it feels the best compare to everything else and the cars seems to pull way better especially at the very low end. Rookie mistake the outlet is smaller than the OEM Charge pipe...maybe that's the limiting factor. Short charge pipe... just works ok. I mean it is basically the same with the OEM unit and with just a bit better IATs values. Do I feel the difference when I am driving? No . I can't really tell. How should I proceed? 1) Print another long version but this time with revised outlet? Dyno again the car and lets see ? 2) For the short version, is the air box the limiting factor? People out there claim 10+ whp with just an airbox Should I designed a cheap airbox utilizing layser cut sheet metal and printed parts, with more volume ? Dyno again the car with OEM charge pipe plus the new airbox and then another dyno with the printed charge pipe plus the new air box. Compare all the data and decide ? 3)Should I stop the whole project and admit defeat ? P.S I am running extremely low on budget and I am getting tired and frustrated . P.S 2 Most probably I would do something stupid, spend more money and time and try to figure out a way Please I need your comments !!! Have a nice day or night !
If the outlet is smaller than OEM I would fix that and try agin. Also in the picture in post 105 you have your pipe attached to the OEM pipe that goes to the a OEM air box with what looks like a normal air filter. Those parts negate your nice charge pipe. For your pipe to see any advantage everything before it needs to be smooth and flow well. So a K&M filter and a smooth pipe to your charge pipe. You need it to be able to gulp air with no obstructions. On my cold air intake (R53) I have a box that is inclosed from any heat from the engine bay. I also have a big hole cut in the plastic that separates the air filter and the area under the vent in front of the windshield. This way I get all the cold air I need from that area instead of that little OEM pipe that gets air next to the radiator.
I know what you mean, but I want to have object results, meaning only changing the charge pipe (I am speaking about the short version) and not the air filter. The OEM intake hose actually it is pretty nicely designed, with integrated step for the throttle body and the air box ! I don't really believe that the hose actually affects the outcome (as it used in both scenarios). I am thinking of designing an air box, maybe a tube as well, and play a bit with different combinations.
I haven't looked inside the OEM pipe that goes from the air box to your charge pipe in a long time so I can't remember, is it smooth? If not as air velocity goes up so will turbulence. But that really not the biggest problem in my opinion. The air filter and box is. If you are trying to get more air flow you can not just change the middle and expect big results. Every thing before it must flow to the max posable. I like what you are doing but have always thought this part would be best used on a highly modded R53 that's needs every bit of air it can get.
Yes you are right. I will design an airbox, (nothing special, sheet metal, some printed parts etc) just to do some more testing. Then dyno the car with the short pipe plus the airbox and then oem pipe with newly designed air box. Lets see if this combo works or not .
Your version of the OEM pipe out of CF is 100% better the the stock one because it is not thin cheap plastic. The OEM one gets brittle over time from heat and cracks and causes boost leaks. (Ask me how I know) I am on my second one now and my next step is a HARROP TVS 900 to get rid of the plastic tube. See HARROP TVS pipe in the kit below. http://www.tvsmini.com/
I love the Harrop kit ! !!!!Caution Nerdy CAD picture!!!!!! So the last days I took a step back or at least I slowed down with the project (I am already designing a new air box though ) I put some projects together in one picture just for fun (NERD I know ). Can you spot the OEM R53 airbox ? next to it there is another project I was working for a while (I say ''was working'' as budget doesn't allow me to continue), can you think from what car it is ....?
I think nobody catch it... Next to the OEM R53 airbox is the R56 intake I designed a while ago (ofcourse just a 3dmodel, as budget doesn't allow me to continue more , for now at least )
I saw it, just thought it was the R50 airbox. I would like oem looking airbox but with a full opening at the cowl. Basically like the DDMworks but made out of plastic not metal. Don’t get the metal heatshields for intakes, it will heatsoak and become an oven for the filter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
That's what I figured. Searching on Google "Voltage 53r" gives me actual voltage and electrical results lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I like what you have done so far, and your honesty in not trying to recover your R&D costs foisting some peak numbers to sell units. I also agree with Dave.0 that I'd like an option to replace the cheap plastic parts with CF where it makes sense.
Meaning even if the power figure are exactly the same as the OEM unit? It requires a lot of work to produce the charge pipe from carbon fiber and the cost is high. Me as George I do not want to produce something just to change the material (without any power benefits) and charge at least 3 times more the price of the OEM unit. It just doesnt make sense Also I want to go faster