K, I skimmed your post. Being functionally illiterate that's the best I can do without pictures, so forgive if I missed something in my response.
-You could be off a tooth. It wouldn't bend valves if you were, but you'd be down around 30 hp. Call me if you want a quick and dirty way to diagnose this.
-Your compressions are actually not too far apart, cylinder-to-cylinder. That's a good thing. The numbers are a little low, but that could be your gauge or that your car is cranking with a weaker battery. If you had a bent valve or two, your compressions would be all cattywhumpus, and you'd likely have misfires.
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Eric@Helix New MemberMotoring Alliance Founding Sponsor
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BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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Are you SURE you don't just have a vacuum leak somewhere? Lots of places to leak on a mini, it's a very common problem after reassembly...
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nkfry New MemberMotoring Alliance Sponsor
You could be a tooth off, but like Eric said; your compression numbers are within ~10% of each other. Deviance over 10% is cause for concern.
It sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere.
By it sounded like a Diesel, was it clattery? Almost like the timing tensioner hadn't been popped before starting?
Do all of your lifters have the caps on them still, or were some of them broken off during the head work? -
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Okay, so yesterday I ran my own compression test & came up with:
Cyl 1- 150psi, 10 strokes
Cyl 2- 157psi, 10 strokes
Cyl 3- 140psi, 12 strokes
Cyl 4- 148psi, 10 strokes
So then, Cylinder 3 seems to be a bit of an issue but my numbers certainly aren't uncharacteristically low across the board as the shop had led me to believe. I used the same gauge on the same day to do a compression test on our other R53 that runs great & it was also in the 150's so I know my car's in the right range.
I also verified that my timing is, in fact, correct. After speaking with Eric @ Helix, I pulled my valve cover, rotated the crank 'till the two round holes in the cam gear were perfectly level with the top of the head, then used a long 1/4" extension to verify that all cylinders were sitting at the same height, and they were.
Finally, I ran a test similar to a leak down, where I pulled the valve stem out of the compression test hose & used it to feed compressed air into the combustion chamber of each cylinder while at TDC & listen for air leaks. On every cylinder, air was leaking very slightly out of the dipstick tube, meaning past the rings, but nothing through the valves.
So in a way, I'm back to square one, with the symptoms being:
-Very unenthusiastic starting
-When RPM drops to idle, it does not fall to a solid 800 RPM. Rather, it will usually fall under, possibly bog a bit, then eventually correct itself.
-Lazy throttle response
-Lumpy, resonant idle (all stock mounts)
My possible suspects are:
-Throttle body
-Partially clogged Cat
-Still a damn vacuum leak somewhere that I haven't found
Any suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated!! -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
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I'm a big fan of vacuum leak. But you know that already. ;-)
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-smoke test
-positive pressure applied through intake / spray soapy water everywhere / listen for hissing
-spray brake cleaner across every potential leaking seam & listen for changes in idle -
DneprDave Well-Known MemberSupporting Member
I wouldn't use brake cleaner, the ones I'm familiar with are not flammable and can, in fact, release some nasty gasses, when burned (phosgene).
Better to use propane to look for vacuum leaks, as it is a fuel and it will affect the idle, if you get it near a vacuum leak. -
BlimeyCabrio Oscar Goldman of MINIsLifetime Supporter
- May 4, 2009
- 2,896
- Professional Facilitator and Alignment Consultant
- Ratings:
- +2,896 / 0 / -0
Starting fluid spray works well, also.
But your pressure or smoke test should have found it. Another possibility is failing MAP or TMAP sensor.