Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Lowering Subframe?

Discussion in 'Tuning and Performance' started by locksley94, May 7, 2013.

  1. locksley94

    locksley94 New Member

    May 3, 2013
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    so I plan to change my outer and inner ball joints along with my control arm bushings. I need to do so soon because I have pre pressed bushings and there is a core charge. I hear removing the subframe is easiest but the bentley manual says just lower it, they dont tell you how to lower it though, just how to remove it. for lowering it they just refer you to a photo that shows some bolt locations. any input?
    if removing the subframe requires removing the bumper carrier, I will just extend the front module and do my oil pan gasket as well.
     
  2. jiminni

    jiminni Well-Known Member

    May 7, 2009
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    Yea, you have to remove the carrier, because you have to remove the crush tubes also. But dropping the subframe is the BEST way to do everything you are doing. You could have changed your tie rod ends also, and, also when your there, check the power steering lines, the tank and lines come down with the subframe. Clean them and check the clamps to see if they are leaking, most do. Good luck :Thumbsup:
     
  3. locksley94

    locksley94 New Member

    May 3, 2013
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    Well sounds like it will be an adventure :p
    Any rough estimate on time for removing subframe and changing all four ball joints and oil pan gasket? I have some auto experience but almost none with a mini. I changed my motor mount and added and short throw shifter.
     
  4. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    About 5 hours the first time, significantly less from then on if you ever need to do it again.

    You need to remove the inner fender liners too, so that you can get to the bolt that attaches the steering shaft to the rack. It's simply one bolt you remove, then fold the coupler back up onto the shaft. Once you get there you'll see what I mean.

    However, once on the floor everything is so much easier to change out that it's worth doing. You'll need to bend the heat shields to get the reservoir down thru the hole behind the engine.

    I would caution you about changing the pan gasket, I've never yet seen one leak - everyone I've seen has been leaking down from the crank sensor, and then following around the lip of the pan making it look like the pan gasket is leaking.....if you want to change it, go ahead, but I think it's a waste of time and energy - but do change the crank sensor o-ring, it's held in with one bolt and takes 5 min to do once you have the car in service mode.
     
  5. MCS02

    MCS02 Moderator
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    Jul 31, 2009
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    So that's why after changing my oil pan gasket it started to leak about a week later. Now I find out! Thanks :mad2:
     
  6. locksley94

    locksley94 New Member

    May 3, 2013
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    I had it at Detroit tuned and he told me I needed an oil pan gasket. I will check that o-ring though.
     
  7. Minidave

    Minidave Well-Known Member
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    Dec 22, 2009
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    I'm not saying it can't leak, but I am saying I've never seen one that was actually leaking out of the ones I've changed. If you do take it off I think you'll see why I think that it's something else.

    Another possibility beside the cranks sensor are the o-rings that seal the oil cooler. I've replaced a few of those and that oil also runs down along the lip of the pan. Best thing to do is look for the real reason before you start throwing parts and labor at it.

    Clean it up well with a pressure washer then see if you can determine where the oil leak is originating......
     

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