Suspension Brakes 1st Gen Most liked posts in thread: Lowering Subframe?

Yea, you have to remove the carrier, because you have to remove the crush tubes also. But dropping the subframe is the BEST way to do everything you are doing. You could have changed your tie rod ends also, and, also when your there, check the power steering lines, the tank and lines come down with the subframe. Clean them and check the clamps to see if they are leaking, most do. Good luck

 

About 5 hours the first time, significantly less from then on if you ever need to do it again.

You need to remove the inner fender liners too, so that you can get to the bolt that attaches the steering shaft to the rack. It's simply one bolt you remove, then fold the coupler back up onto the shaft. Once you get there you'll see what I mean.

However, once on the floor everything is so much easier to change out that it's worth doing. You'll need to bend the heat shields to get the reservoir down thru the hole behind the engine.

I would caution you about changing the pan gasket, I've never yet seen one leak - everyone I've seen has been leaking down from the crank sensor, and then following around the lip of the pan making it look like the pan gasket is leaking.....if you want to change it, go ahead, but I think it's a waste of time and energy - but do change the crank sensor o-ring, it's held in with one bolt and takes 5 min to do once you have the car in service mode.

 

I'm not saying it can't leak, but I am saying I've never seen one that was actually leaking out of the ones I've changed. If you do take it off I think you'll see why I think that it's something else.

Another possibility beside the cranks sensor are the o-rings that seal the oil cooler. I've replaced a few of those and that oil also runs down along the lip of the pan. Best thing to do is look for the real reason before you start throwing parts and labor at it.

Clean it up well with a pressure washer then see if you can determine where the oil leak is originating......